Starter Relay/Solenoid
#1
Starter Relay/Solenoid
Ok, so my 1983 F250 460ci won't start. It's not a battery issue. You turn the key, the relay clicks...nothing. Now, I'm in the process of diagnosing this problem, but I'm running into trouble stemming from my own inexperience, and what I suspect are parts suppliers playing fast and loose with terminology. The issue is that I don't know what the difference between the starter relay (which I know to be fender-mounted on my truck) and a starter solenoid (which seems to be either fender or starter-mounted). Are the starter relay and the starter solenoid the same thing?
I'm slightly confused because I've already ordered a new relay from RockAuto, but LMC seems to be calling the exact same part a starter solenoid. Any insight would be greatly appreciated (and I know, the relay is working if it clicks - don't ask me why I bought a completely new one. It was cheap and it's easily accessible on the truck.).
I'm slightly confused because I've already ordered a new relay from RockAuto, but LMC seems to be calling the exact same part a starter solenoid. Any insight would be greatly appreciated (and I know, the relay is working if it clicks - don't ask me why I bought a completely new one. It was cheap and it's easily accessible on the truck.).
#3
If you want the correct technical terms, the relay mounts on the fender and is just that, a large relay that makes electrical contact only.
A solenoid mounts on the starter and has a mechanical function as well as sometimes electrical. The solenoid usually pulls the gear into the flywheel as well as making electrical contact.
All that being said, the relay on the fender is called a "solenoid" by so many people, like the other poster said it's used interchangeable. No use fighting it, when in Rome, do as the Romans do.
A solenoid mounts on the starter and has a mechanical function as well as sometimes electrical. The solenoid usually pulls the gear into the flywheel as well as making electrical contact.
All that being said, the relay on the fender is called a "solenoid" by so many people, like the other poster said it's used interchangeable. No use fighting it, when in Rome, do as the Romans do.
#4
Ok, so my 1983 F250 460ci won't start. It's not a battery issue. You turn the key, the relay clicks...nothing. Now, I'm in the process of diagnosing this problem, but I'm running into trouble stemming from my own inexperience, and what I suspect are parts suppliers playing fast and loose with terminology. The issue is that I don't know what the difference between the starter relay (which I know to be fender-mounted on my truck) and a starter solenoid (which seems to be either fender or starter-mounted). Are the starter relay and the starter solenoid the same thing?
I'm slightly confused because I've already ordered a new relay from RockAuto, but LMC seems to be calling the exact same part a starter solenoid. Any insight would be greatly appreciated (and I know, the relay is working if it clicks - don't ask me why I bought a completely new one. It was cheap and it's easily accessible on the truck.).
I'm slightly confused because I've already ordered a new relay from RockAuto, but LMC seems to be calling the exact same part a starter solenoid. Any insight would be greatly appreciated (and I know, the relay is working if it clicks - don't ask me why I bought a completely new one. It was cheap and it's easily accessible on the truck.).
#7
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#8
Well that's probably the first problem. Supposedly the only GOOD new relays are made by Standard and Motorcraft. I had the ratchety problem before, bad battery connection at the terminals caused it. Had power in cab, turn the key. No power in cab and ratchety sound from relay.
#9
Well that's probably the first problem. Supposedly the only GOOD new relays are made by Standard and Motorcraft. I had the ratchety problem before, bad battery connection at the terminals caused it. Had power in cab, turn the key. No power in cab and ratchety sound from relay.
#10
1983, eh? It might not be a battery issue, but it COULD be bad connections. It costs nothing, and what have you got to lose? Better than spending more money on parts, and wish I had a nickel for everytime a bad connection or ground caused something to not work right. ANYTHING electrical depends on its power supply.
Remove the battery and clean it all up, top and sides, put in on a charger at 6 amps. Then, this is important, put a wrench on all the cables - negative battery cable (should) go direct to block, positive cable to starter, and remove them.
Don't just look at them. If the cables are green inside with corrosion under the insulation or at the crimp replace them, but in any case clean up all connections with a file, wire wheel, pocket knife, what have you, down to shiny bare metal,etc.
Reinstall securely, reinstall battery - wirebrush those terminals! Connect the negative battery terminal last. Bet you a nickel it starts.
Remove the battery and clean it all up, top and sides, put in on a charger at 6 amps. Then, this is important, put a wrench on all the cables - negative battery cable (should) go direct to block, positive cable to starter, and remove them.
Don't just look at them. If the cables are green inside with corrosion under the insulation or at the crimp replace them, but in any case clean up all connections with a file, wire wheel, pocket knife, what have you, down to shiny bare metal,etc.
Reinstall securely, reinstall battery - wirebrush those terminals! Connect the negative battery terminal last. Bet you a nickel it starts.
#14
If you jumped the relay -with a wrench or whatever- and there is still noise, it is not the relay.
#15
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19fifty4
1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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11-05-2013 07:58 AM