Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) Diesel Topics Only

Running Additive To Grease IP?

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Old 09-26-2014, 09:16 PM
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ill have to check that link out. the one i read showed only a marginal gain with 2 stroke oi however that was also at 200:1

Yes our pumps / engines were designed to run on regular "high" sulfer diesel. When they first when to LSD then ULSD the extra refining to get out the sulfer took out alot of the parafin as well as other fuel conditioners. This made the fuel very dry, too dry in fact as it caused numerous problems. Since then however they have developed and implemented additive packages for fuel to replace the lost lubrication. Does it lubricate as good as the old stuff, i doubt it, but without the sulfer in there i bet the engine and fuel system as a whole is as happy or happier with the newer fuel. So again, i dont think addatives are necessary. The only downfall with the new fuel is lower cetane, the only way to get that back is to add cetane booster. If you run cetane booster, i would run it all the time, and time the engine accordingly, otherwise its a waste, like running 93 in a gasser that only needs 85 or 87

I also wouldnt run cheap 2-stroke oil, because the ash buildup can plug the pre-cups. Seen a head off an engine that was running 100% wmo that was plugged up..... amazing the thing even ran.
 
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Old 09-26-2014, 11:51 PM
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awesome, thats good to know. Thanks for the wealth of info! I'll probably run Stanadyne, due to the fact it can't hurt it, and the winter additive will be nice as its going to get cold here soon. Thanks again!
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 12:19 AM
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I haul fuel professionally, its what I do. and the RACK will shut down if the lubricity additive is not within spec. DYED Diesel is exactly the same as clear, comes out of the same pipe. just has dye added. I have a lot of experience with fleet vehicles, why does one burn through parts and another not? parts wear out, parts over heat, parts get abused, many of my customers swear by some additives, others run large fleets, burn 10,000 gallons + a month with out additives at all. just quality filters. Its what makes you most comfortable, that's what you should do.
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 04:01 AM
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Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle

I also wouldnt run cheap 2-stroke oil, because the ash buildup can plug the pre-cups. Seen a head off an engine that was running 100% wmo that was plugged up..... amazing the thing even ran.
i agree. know a guy that killed his IDI by putting all that crap in the fuel after listening to a "diesel guru"
i kept on telling him he was ruining his engine,and the dodge boy did not know what he was talking about. but he would not listen to me. the dodge boy was was a racer, and built crazy power engines that he would rebuild every 4-5 months because they would not last much longer than that with all he had into them. dodge boy kept telling him how the junk would make his truck run so much better.

well, running the WMO, and 2 stroke oil, ended up cracking the heads and pistons, resulting in a new engine.
he started listening to me after that and went from 60k on an injector pump and injectors to 150k just like i get.
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 06:39 AM
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Originally Posted by speedwrench72
I haul fuel professionally, its what I do. and the RACK will shut down if the lubricity additive is not within spec. DYED Diesel is exactly the same as clear, comes out of the same pipe. just has dye added. I have a lot of experience with fleet vehicles, why does one burn through parts and another not? parts wear out, parts over heat, parts get abused, many of my customers swear by some additives, others run large fleets, burn 10,000 gallons + a month with out additives at all. just quality filters. Its what makes you most comfortable, that's what you should do.
I've heard heating oil is the same as diesel and I've heard it is missing some additives.... What's the truth on that?
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:05 AM
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home heating oil is not the same as diesel fuel. you can run diesel in a home heater, but you can not run home oil in a diesel without doing all kinds of damage to the injection parts.
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by tjc transport
home heating oil is not the same as diesel fuel. you can run diesel in a home heater, but you can not run home oil in a diesel without doing all kinds of damage to the injection parts.
Hes not wrong... ask me how i know if you run it 50/50 you should be fine, but i would still add something to lubricate. 50/50 #1 #2 is what you get for winter fuel most of the time.
 
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Old 09-27-2014, 07:32 PM
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Buying additives for lubricity is a waste of money. That is what Trucking experts have proven. If you want to increase lubricity find a supplier of biodiesel blend. It will make your engine run and idle better and is less toxic. Just be aware that if your fuel system seals are old, they may not be made to run biodiesel and might swell. But then again ULSD will dry them out, so pick your poison. I get my B20(20%biodiesel) at a Love's Truck stop in SC and when i am in Atlanta i get B100 and only use straight ulsd a few gals at a time to get me to my biodiesel station. A 'fun' comparison to do is to get a teaspoon on ulsd and one of biodiesel- compare and smell and you will see the difference. ulsd is like a solvent while biodiesel is like oil. cost of b20 is very comparable to non bio (B0)
You could also add some heating oil to your fuel if you dont have a Bio source on your regular routes. But who even has heating oil anymore? I love the smell of the stuff- reminds me of grandpa's house.
 
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