We have owned our 2002 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 5.4L RWD for seven years. It is one of our every day and towing vehicle. We have been towing the same trailer for the same period of time with no issues. In the past 12 months we've replaced the following (in this order):

1) Heater Core - Leaking the in the cabin (Last Fall)
2) Head Gasket - Significant Oil leak (December)
3) Front upper and lower ball joints, outer tie rods and struts and rear shocks. (Late Spring)

Vehicle has not driven nicer in a long time. Increased the average MPG by 2 MPG. We then attempted to go on a trip with the camper. We got about 20 miles from home when I noticed that the temp was above nominal (never experienced that before). Kept watching the temp, turned on the heat and it appeared to level out. Came to a construction zone. Slowed down and the temp just popped in the red and coolant began flowing out of the cap. Pulled over immediately and had the vehicle towed home.

Had the vehicle inspected by a service station and they found no apparent issues. We were still trying to salvage our vacation. I took it for a test drive with the camper and again it overheated after twenty minutes. Waited, filled the reservoir with 50/50 mix and drove home. I then did the following.

1) Flushed the system about seven times until the water was virtually clear.
2) Found a tiny leak in the radiator. Replaced the radiator with the 2 1/4" radiator. It had the 1 1/4" installed which seemed wierd.
3) Replaced the upper and lower radiator hoses (coated with residue)
4) Replaced the thermostat

I then took it for another test drive. Vehicle performed very well. Didn't seem to labor as much as it had in the past. I put it through it's paces. Up and down inclines, lots of stops and starts, acceleration, high and low speeds. After 30 minutes thought the issue was gone and on the last 2 miles got the vehicle up to 65 - 70 mph. Started to see the temp creep past normal. As I approached home I could tell it was on its way to overheating again. Turned on the heat and it was not very warm. Returned home and let it cool down. Raised the front of the car to try to remove any air. Topped off the coolant level (1/4 gallon).

Not sure where to go next or what to try. The vehicle runs great otherwise.

Any suggestions?

 

The serpentine belt is slipping. Either it's worn or the belt tensioner isn't keeping it tight enough.

 

alloro,

I changed the serpentine belt last evening. I have not attempted to tow the camper but the CE light went away and the vehicle seems more responsive.

When I was driving home last night (before I changed the belt) the Overdrive OFF light came on. When I exited the highway I turned the vehicle off and back on. The light has not come back on since. Before I tow the camper, should I be concerned with the light coming on or is it possible that the bad serpentine belt could have cause this?

Thank you for your wisdom!

kysoti

 

With a bad or worn serpentine belt, the slippage will keep the water pump from spinning full speed and you get the overheating. Also, the slippage will affect the alternator output as well as the responsiveness of the power steering. Low alternator output is a concern with these vehicles as the on-board electronics are very sensitive to low voltage and could've been the cause of the OD off light. Time will tell.

 

Alloro,

Since I last posted, I have towed the camper and the temp had never gone above nominal. In fact the temp decreases at higher speeds. Thanks again for the advice.

The bad news is that just this evening I was driving the vehicle home and just as I was pulling onto our street it started to shake. It felt like the there was a suspension problem. I was able to get the vehicle home, but when I placed it in park, it stalled. It will turn over, but won't start. There is no CE light.

I did some searching of the forums for related posts and came up empty. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

2002 Expedition
5.4L
RWD
154,000 miles

kysoti

 

The fuel pump could've failed. I would start by scanning it for codes and/or checking to see if there is fuel pressure on the fuel rail when the key is on.

 

or if you can hear the fuel pump while some on turns the key to on position....

 

Hello again. Just closing out the thread.

Because the vehicle would not start and I did not have a way to read the codes, I focused on the fuel system. Without any proof that is was bad, I replaced the fuel filter. No change.

Earlier I had investigated the fuses that were related to the fuel system. They were all good. I then started to go through the others and found that Fuse #30 was blown. I replaced it and the car started, but within a few seconds the fuse blew and the vehicle stalled. I then found that this fuse was for a variety of items, namely the PCM relay and Ignition Coils. I verified that the relay was good. I then wiggled each of the ICs and disconnected the first one. I replaced the fuse and it started. It ran rough, but still ran. I connected the IC #1 and it still ran rough. At this point I drove the vehicle to the auto parts store and they read the codes for me. It reported that IC 1 and 4 were bad. I suspected #4 since I had not removed its connector. I drove home and replaced the IC #4 and all is well.

The only thing that I notice now is that while it is shifting in the lower gears at higher RPMs, there is a sound that I would describe as loose bearings. As soon as it shifts the sound goes away. It only seems to happen for gears 1->2 and 2->3.

Thanks again for your help!

kysoti