I am attempting to static time the F3 flathead with a mechanical distributor. Not a lot of Ford info but VW world has lots. I need to be able to turn the engine to the timing mark. Impossible to get it there with the starter (and be precise). Tried to put it in a high gear and push but no dice (I can't push it in gear). Don't have a socket large/deep enough for the bolt on the crank. On VWs you put the wrench on the generator (the belt slips) What's the trick?

Any help,
John

 

The bolt on the crank is the way to go.

You could take off a cover or take out the starter and carefully pry on the flywheel teeth. Or you can pull the coil wire, jack up a rear wheel, put it in the highest gear, and use a bar to turn the drive shaft. (did I mention pull the coil wire?)

Personally, I would buy the socket and/or extension and use the bolt on the crank.

Your mileage may vary.

 

Anyone know what size the crank nut is. Also does anyone use a hand crank to turn it? Mine has provisions for one but no crank.

 

If you take the spark plugs out you can probably turn it with the fan. Crank bolt is 15/16" I think? Not positive....

 

I usually pull a few spark plugs and pull on fan belt
On some engines u can see the valves and use a screw driver to tell tdc

 

I usually can turn a flathead with the fan, carefully. I lean over the grill, start turning the fan with using one fan blade on each side at approximately 8 and 2 o'clock. With my right hand I tighten up the driver's side of the fan belt. It is rare I can't slowly turn a flathead. I should mention I am fairly tall and have long arms, which helps.

All that said, the best way is the socket on the crank bolt. Some of the old Fords I have use a 13/16 crank bolt, the same size as your spark plug socket.

 

Mine is 7/8", but it's a Car engine. I doubt they are different.

Static timing is kind of a waste. Set the timing so you have 20 - 22 deg at 2200 RPM (with all advance in). That is real close to 1" past the bump on the sheave. That is more critical than static timing. Is this a Bubba dizzy? if so, adding vac advance gives better economy.

 

It is a Bubba dizzy. I chose the mechanical hoping that by avoiding vacuum all together I could fix my then overheating problem. Can you add vacuum to the mechanical dizzy?

Can you confirm if I align the timing needle and notch on an 8ba am I at top dead center or correctly timed at idle? I have found conflicting info.

 

it's at tdc only every other revolution. To find tdc, pull #1 sparkplug. Remove primary wire from coil to dizzy so engine won't start, spark plugs won't fire. Put finger or thumb over spark plug hole and bump engine over. When compression blows your finger off the hole you just went past tdc. Turn it back to timing mark with fan or or crank.
I'm not familiar with timing your distributor, Guy's can he not time it with a basic timing light? Vacuum advance responds to engine load, whereas mechanical only responds to rpm. Not sure why a mechanical advance would help cooling?

 

The bump is usually at 3 deg, the factory stock static setting.

If your Bubba is a Chev/GM dizzy, check for a place to add a vac canister. Engines run COOLER with more advance under low-load operation. With a Bubba dizzy, and vac advance, you use manifold vacuum as the source.

With your current setup, the best way to set it up is to pop the cap and rotor, and remove the two springs on the flyweights. Put the rotor and cap back on, and start the engine. Set the timing at 20 - 22 deg. (RPM is irrelevant, you will be getting full advance at idle). Clamp it down and put the springs back in.

 

Is not so much that mechanical advance helped cooling so much as moving away from the load-o-matic did. The mechanical was me trying to make it easier for myself and remembering fondly the bosch 009 on my 73 beetle. It may not have been the best choice but it got the truck running and driving for more that 2 miles at a time! And I think it will be workable for the time being.

 

The mechanical-only advance dizzies are generally for guys with big cams and 2x2's that don't give a good signal at moderate throttle. A 3x2 with progressive linkage doesn't have those issues, neither would a 4-bbl 390 Holley. Anything is better than a Load-a-crapic once you stray from stock.

 

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