Turning the engine (static timing)
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Senior User
Joined: May 2013
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From: Atlanta
Turning the engine (static timing)
I am attempting to static time the F3 flathead with a mechanical distributor. Not a lot of Ford info but VW world has lots. I need to be able to turn the engine to the timing mark. Impossible to get it there with the starter (and be precise). Tried to put it in a high gear and push but no dice (I can't push it in gear). Don't have a socket large/deep enough for the bolt on the crank. On VWs you put the wrench on the generator (the belt slips) What's the trick?
Any help,
John
Any help,
John
Phantom of the Phorum
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 5,470
Likes: 1,697
From: Kentucky
The bolt on the crank is the way to go.
You could take off a cover or take out the starter and carefully pry on the flywheel teeth. Or you can pull the coil wire, jack up a rear wheel, put it in the highest gear, and use a bar to turn the drive shaft. (did I mention pull the coil wire?)
Personally, I would buy the socket and/or extension and use the bolt on the crank.
Your mileage may vary.
You could take off a cover or take out the starter and carefully pry on the flywheel teeth. Or you can pull the coil wire, jack up a rear wheel, put it in the highest gear, and use a bar to turn the drive shaft. (did I mention pull the coil wire?)
Personally, I would buy the socket and/or extension and use the bolt on the crank.
Your mileage may vary.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 4,387
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From: placer county usa?
I am attempting to static time the F3 flathead with a mechanical distributor. Not a lot of Ford info but VW world has lots. I need to be able to turn the engine to the timing mark. Impossible to get it there with the starter (and be precise). Tried to put it in a high gear and push but no dice (I can't push it in gear). Don't have a socket large/deep enough for the bolt on the crank. On VWs you put the wrench on the generator (the belt slips) What's the trick?
Any help,
John
Any help,
John
On some engines u can see the valves and use a screw driver to tell tdc
Cargo Master
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 2,917
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From: Houston
I usually can turn a flathead with the fan, carefully. I lean over the grill, start turning the fan with using one fan blade on each side at approximately 8 and 2 o'clock. With my right hand I tighten up the driver's side of the fan belt. It is rare I can't slowly turn a flathead. I should mention I am fairly tall and have long arms, which helps.
All that said, the best way is the socket on the crank bolt. Some of the old Fords I have use a 13/16 crank bolt, the same size as your spark plug socket.
All that said, the best way is the socket on the crank bolt. Some of the old Fords I have use a 13/16 crank bolt, the same size as your spark plug socket.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
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From: NM
Mine is 7/8", but it's a Car engine. I doubt they are different.
Static timing is kind of a waste. Set the timing so you have 20 - 22 deg at 2200 RPM (with all advance in). That is real close to 1" past the bump on the sheave. That is more critical than static timing. Is this a Bubba dizzy? if so, adding vac advance gives better economy.
Static timing is kind of a waste. Set the timing so you have 20 - 22 deg at 2200 RPM (with all advance in). That is real close to 1" past the bump on the sheave. That is more critical than static timing. Is this a Bubba dizzy? if so, adding vac advance gives better economy.
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Senior User
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From: Atlanta
It is a Bubba dizzy. I chose the mechanical hoping that by avoiding vacuum all together I could fix my then overheating problem. Can you add vacuum to the mechanical dizzy?
Can you confirm if I align the timing needle and notch on an 8ba am I at top dead center or correctly timed at idle? I have found conflicting info.
Can you confirm if I align the timing needle and notch on an 8ba am I at top dead center or correctly timed at idle? I have found conflicting info.
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Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
it's at tdc only every other revolution. To find tdc, pull #1 sparkplug. Remove primary wire from coil to dizzy so engine won't start, spark plugs won't fire. Put finger or thumb over spark plug hole and bump engine over. When compression blows your finger off the hole you just went past tdc. Turn it back to timing mark with fan or or crank.
I'm not familiar with timing your distributor, Guy's can he not time it with a basic timing light? Vacuum advance responds to engine load, whereas mechanical only responds to rpm. Not sure why a mechanical advance would help cooling?
I'm not familiar with timing your distributor, Guy's can he not time it with a basic timing light? Vacuum advance responds to engine load, whereas mechanical only responds to rpm. Not sure why a mechanical advance would help cooling?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
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From: NM
The bump is usually at 3 deg, the factory stock static setting.
If your Bubba is a Chev/GM dizzy, check for a place to add a vac canister. Engines run COOLER with more advance under low-load operation. With a Bubba dizzy, and vac advance, you use manifold vacuum as the source.
With your current setup, the best way to set it up is to pop the cap and rotor, and remove the two springs on the flyweights. Put the rotor and cap back on, and start the engine. Set the timing at 20 - 22 deg. (RPM is irrelevant, you will be getting full advance at idle). Clamp it down and put the springs back in.
If your Bubba is a Chev/GM dizzy, check for a place to add a vac canister. Engines run COOLER with more advance under low-load operation. With a Bubba dizzy, and vac advance, you use manifold vacuum as the source.
With your current setup, the best way to set it up is to pop the cap and rotor, and remove the two springs on the flyweights. Put the rotor and cap back on, and start the engine. Set the timing at 20 - 22 deg. (RPM is irrelevant, you will be getting full advance at idle). Clamp it down and put the springs back in.
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From: Atlanta
Is not so much that mechanical advance helped cooling so much as moving away from the load-o-matic did. The mechanical was me trying to make it easier for myself and remembering fondly the bosch 009 on my 73 beetle. It may not have been the best choice but it got the truck running and driving for more that 2 miles at a time! And I think it will be workable for the time being.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,286
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From: NM
The mechanical-only advance dizzies are generally for guys with big cams and 2x2's that don't give a good signal at moderate throttle. A 3x2 with progressive linkage doesn't have those issues, neither would a 4-bbl 390 Holley. Anything is better than a Load-a-crapic once you stray from stock.
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