Hello,

Getting ready to attempt an axle seal for the first time and had a few questions after research online:
1) After removing the bolts at the end of the axle, it says to remove the hub, will i need a puller always, or just sometimes
2) when replacing the axle seal, is it readily apparent where the seal is supposed to line up, or is there a measurement
3) when reinstalling the bolts at the end of the axle, it says to use a water sealer, i assume to keep water from getting in. great idea, but what product is that?

Thanks,

David

 

Here is how it went on my '88 10.25. The axle shaft had a rubber oring that sealed it but i used oil resistant rtv on bolts and axle mating surfaces too. I wrapped my axle splines in a rag to avoid accidently dinging them. Once you remove the nut holding the hub on and remove the hub you clearly see the oil seal on back of hub. My seal had an oil side and dry side. Just seat it in is what i done flush with hub. I did not need a puller to get my axle out or the hub off though the hub did need a little stern talking to

 

Remove the bolts holding the axle shaft to the hub, and remove the axle shaft. Oil will spill out, be ready for it. Inside the hub there is a nut, washer, and another nut that hold the hub in place. I don't have the info right in front of me, but these will be either quite large hex nuts or round with four little slots. Either style requires a specific socket for it, but those are usually on the shelf at most auto parts stores. The outer nut is pretty tight, and if it's a hex it'll have a sheet metal tab bent over one of the flats. Bend the tab back, and take the nut off. The washer between the two nuts has a series of holes that engage a pin on the inner nut. The washer can be faced either way to get the pin in a hole with the proper bearing preload.
Once you pull the inner nut, the outer bearing will be loose and the hub can be slid off the spindle. Have clean rags handy to put the bearings on, and more oil will come out of the hub when you set it down.
To remove the seal, I like to use a quick and dirty trick- Without the outer bearing, put the hub back on the spindle and spin the outer nut on a few threads. Make sure the outer bearing race clears it, then give a good sharp pull. The inner bearing will be stopped by the nut, and it will pull the seal out. You may have to do this a couple times, but it should pop out without too much effort.
Clean everything thoroughly, and with the hub outer side down on a board, place the inner bearing in it's race. If the seal has a flange, drive it in until the flange is tight to the hub. If not, drive it in until the outer face is flush with the hub. Always use a seal driver, if one is not available, a piece of 2x4 can be used but be careful. It is very easy to damage the seal, and hitting it directly with the hammer will generally prevent it from sealing properly. make sure the seal is pointing the right direction before you install it, the spring around the lip should be facing the oil.
One the seal is in, coat the seal lip and the area of the spindle it rides on with a good grease, and carefully slide the hub on. Put clean gear oil on the outer bearing, and slide it in place followed by the inner nut. Make sure the pin on the nut is pointing out.
To set the bearings up on the hub, tighten the inner nut to 50ft/lbs while turning the hub, then back off loose. Turn it in again to just hand tight, no torque. Put the washer on, if you need to align it loosen the nut to the next hole. Put the outer nut on and torque to 160ft/lbs.
Use a good quality RTV on the axle to hub face seal, a very thin smear of black RTV works well. Less is better, excess squeezes out not just on the outside but the inside as well. Slide the axle shaft in, and tighten the bolts to 115ft/lbs. Replace the brake shoes, they are contaminated, put the drum and wheel back on, then jack up the other side about 4". Pull the diff fill plug and fill it, that's how the oil gets to the bearings.
That should be about it.

 

Much better explination. Seems like my nut torqued and the backed off like 6 clicks on the washer behind it. Its been a while. Seems like my single nut spindle was 55-65# then back off 5-8 clicks depending if it is a new bearing or not. My inner bearing i installed into hub which had a lip for it then seal flush with hub. I remember now lol. Mine required the four prong socket with a round portion longer in center that slid into axle tube.

 

Thanks for the info. Will try to find some youtube videos that show what you detail on the seal.

 

Ok, axle is out, going slow, learning, taking my time.

1) The oil looks very odd, see pictures.

2) Did not expect an o-ring, thought there would be some rtv or something

Thanks for the help so far.

David

 

That's what oil looks like when water gets in and emulsifies.

I've seen it before in my dad's old Bobcat's hydraulic fluid... looks nasty, and isn't going to be as lubricative.
I'd suggest cleaning things thoroughly before adding new oil; probably would be a good idea to look at all the seals and such.

 

I am new at this, how should clean things out? I have basic skills and learning more constantly at this rate...

 

Check out your diff breather tube to make sure it's in good condition, it comes off the left side of the centre section. On mine it was only run up and tied to the frame rail so any deeper water crossings would result in contamination. I went overboard and ran the front and rear diff breathers to the upper corner of the engine bay and into a little filter.

 

And inspect the breather, it may be clogged which could be the cause for the axle seal leaking. My breather was clogged with rust.

 

Loosen the differential cover at the bottom and let the oil drain out. Remove the cover and wipe everything down with a rag.
Spray some brake cleaner down the axle tubes to rinse any of the old oil either out of the hub end or into the bottom of the differential (lift one side at a time if needed). Wipe out all the old oil you can get, install the diff cover with some RTV, let it cure and fill it up.

Clean any debris off of the breather with a wire brush (to keep dirt from falling in). Remove the breather and clean it out with a pick. If the tube is damaged, replace it. You can get rubber air compressor hose by the foot from most industrial or farm stores (usually runs under $1 per foot), and run it to a high point.

 

1) Axle out - DONE
2) Hub off - DONE
3) Outside wheel bearing - DONE
4) Axle seal - Stuck

So the hub did not slide off, it actually was quite hard to pull off and required some back and forth, kind of like a slide hammer only softer to work it loose. Once it was off, think I know why, but want to confirm. In the first picture below, there is a thin steel ring around the tube (think that is what you would call it), that I think is part of the seal. If that is so, recommendations on how to remove? I do not have any gear pullers or anything, but could probably borrow one...

The second picture is to show you what the other side looks like.

David

 

That should come off pretty easy with a prybar.

 

I think my question now is more abut the steel ring on the axle, the part in the first picture. Is that part of the seal itself or is that a repair sleeve.

I have never done this before, need to learn and accomplish the repair at the same time.

Thanks!

 

Part of the seal. See the rubber between the sleeve and the axle? A repair sleev does not have that.