OK, that's one of my things to check on. Thanks everyone for your input, I really appreciate it.

 

IMO if the problem began after replacing the master cylinder, then the source of the problem is in the master cylinder area and shotgunning new parts at it will eventually fix it but it'll be expensive to do.

This is an example of why I like to keep old parts until the new have been installed & verified, I can un-do my changes and go back to how it was if there are problems.

In this case, I think it'd be best to focus on the MC area - check everything there and adjust as necessary, perhaps swap it out with another (return this one on warranty).

 

This is funny, in that when I bought my truck there was a rope tied to the brake pedal and draped over the seat, the PO informed me that when using the brake you need to pull on the rope to release them! Booster was the first repair once I decided to keep vs. scrap the truck. ~Bill

 

I think you're right. I may be over-thinking this. I gotta figure this out before school starts so I can drive my kids to school. They both can't fit on my Yamaha!

 

All good suggestions so far. And replacing the calipers and lines wouldn't be a bad idea either.

Most likely culprit IS the master cylinder. Whether it be the pushrod adjustment or a faulty MC. I buy a lot of parts from AutoZone, so it stands to reason that I would get more bad parts there than somewhere else, but I bought SEVERAL bad master cylinders from there...along with starters and altenators. Basically, ANY remanufactured part from ANYWHERE stands a good chance of being bad right out of the box.

But check that pushrod first.

 

Thanks for the reply, that seems to be the consensus view. One question; how that hell do I measure the .946 of an inch?

 

Well the easiest way to tell if the pushrod is out of adjustment, is to make sure there is some free play. So before pulling stuff apart, get a helper, (or a large mirror which is what I do) slowly push the brake pedal by hand while looking in the master cylinder. It should move a half inch or so before you see the piston move and cover the hole in the bottom of the front reservoir of the master cylinder. If it doesn't, or the hole is already covered, then you need to unbolt the master from the booster-I don't believe you need to take off the lines, just loosen them a quarter turn. 15/16 inch on the rod should be close enough, better to be a little short in this case than too long. ~Bill

 

Ok, I'm in the process of replacing the master cylinder again and I am worried about my pushrod length. As you can see from the picture, it looks to be more than .946 of an inch.


Am I measuring this wrong or am I right in this assumption?

 

Looks like you need to crank it in a couple turns... ~Bill

 

I thought so, thanks.

 

Ok fellas, I finally had time last night to install a new master cylinder (after I adjusted the pushrod *shoots finger-guns at Franklin2*) and I think we are in business. I thought I had a problem early on because once again in idle, Ole Blue would not move forward on it's own. But as I sat contemplating where I went wrong, my wife asked me if I had left the parking brake on. As I'm saying "Of course it's not on, do you think I'm THAT dumb?", I pull the parking brake release....well guys, I'm THAT dumb. Long story short, MC is in and parking brake is OFF and the drive to work this morning was nice and smooth. Thanks to everyone and my wife for y'alls help!

 

Happy to hear you have it figured out!