I installed my 6" skyjacker kit but I think I may have included a non factory block the PO already had installed. I'm thinking it may have already had a 2" lift kit installed. I should have known better when the Skyjacker provided U-Bolts were not long enough and reused the ones I had.

I'm almost certain but can anyone confirm if this aluminum block (under the bump-stop block) is not a factory installed FORD item?




Here is a few other photos:




The rear seems to sit way to high. Yes, I need to paint my JY tailgate.





Not really a great way to measure... especially since this tire was a bit low but it seems I got about 4" over what I had before




Sorry for the fuzzy pic




I didn't take a picture of my boo-boo but I installed my rear hanger bolts in from the wrong direction and now the end of the bolt hits the frame so I am going to have to take apart and redo them. I don't care for the huge rake and hope it will look better with the small block removed.

 

You should not stack blocks. I don't recall any aluminum blocks being stock.. Just take the bottom one out and it will drop the rear where you want it and the bolts will fit.

 

The Ford items were cast iron most likely, that's what mine were that I took off the '78.

That top one is suppose to be near the axle tube instead of riding on top of the other like that.

Mine did have stacked blocks on it when I disassembled it, but I have no idea if they were from the dealership like that.

Nice looking truck btw!

 

As others stated it's not a stock block.If you remove it or not you should fix the top spring plates,they are not on right.The lip should go on the spring,not next to it...Hope this helps...


BTW nice truck...

 

No way would I have lift blocks stacked like that.

Huge stresses on U-bolts keeping them tight and stacked under braking, acceleration, and on curves and sudden direction changes.

The top block is stock and the top plate above the springs should be turned 90 degrees so rolled lip edges cross the spring faces.

 

Mine has the stock block, then the 3" block on top of that on the rear. Im guessing that it was the "aftermarket" answer back in the day.
My block is actually twisted to the side a bit, and the bottom leaf also, so i doubt they were thinking ahead.

Now days, the lift kits are designed around the stock specifications.

Remove the block and make book ends.

 

I was wondering if I was the only one who noticed that. lol.

 

If using blocks, the factory block goes on top and the aftermarket underneath it.

In reference to the above, that setup is technically installed incorrectly. As shown, there is increased suspension travel until the "wing" makes contact with the bump stop... Lifts are generally for installing bigger tires so with everything else being equal, the bigger tire will contact the body before the suspension hits the bumpstop. Dig?

Blocks are usually okay for mild trail running and such unless the axle/tire gets bound up... really bound up. Then blocks have been known to be "spit out" due to the torque applied to the axle (and its axis of rotation) against the stuckness of the tire on the obstacle ... sort of like wheel hop but worse.

 

Fixed! I removed the lower aftermarket block, corrected the orientation of the top plate, used the shorter u-bolts from he Skyjacker kit and changed the orientation of the shackle bolt so it no longer hits the frame.





Sits way better now.

 

Whoa... didn't notice the u.bolt plate... the PO was a doofus. Good job.... nice rig. Subtle yet effective.

 

Looks awesome man. That's a real nice truck.

 

Lol, in this case, the OP is the "PO",

I in reference to the pic i posted. I wouldnt be surprised that it is wrong, lol. I swear, my PO did everything backwards or sideways

 

There ya go,.. sits way better,... all the girls from McDonalds will want to ride in your truck now.