E150 ECONOLINE VAN 2007 85,000 MILES
#1
E150 ECONOLINE VAN 2007 85,000 MILES
Hello,
I just bought my first Ford van and am looking forward to fixing the shelving up for my electrical business. My current van is an 89 Chevy G20 so I am not used to this newer model.
I noticed that the thermostat goes up to a little bit above halfway after running in park for about 10 - minutes. Is this the norm? Should I be concerned? Is there anything that I should do to cool it down?
I also noticed that the dome light switches in the door frames do not work and the rear dome light is getting no power. Is there anything that someone can recommend for me to try?
Other than those items that I mentioned above the van is great.
Thank you and take care.
Jim
I just bought my first Ford van and am looking forward to fixing the shelving up for my electrical business. My current van is an 89 Chevy G20 so I am not used to this newer model.
I noticed that the thermostat goes up to a little bit above halfway after running in park for about 10 - minutes. Is this the norm? Should I be concerned? Is there anything that I should do to cool it down?
I also noticed that the dome light switches in the door frames do not work and the rear dome light is getting no power. Is there anything that someone can recommend for me to try?
Other than those items that I mentioned above the van is great.
Thank you and take care.
Jim
#2
Welcome to Ford Vans----even a long time GM aficionado like myself has to admit Ford does vans and pick ups very, very well!
Your temps sound about normal but instead of relying on the dash gauge do your own measurements. Either an IR thermometer on the coolant hoses or the old school dip type thermometer with stem probe in coolant reservoir.
There are two thermostats commonly used. 165* & 190* IIRC. I run the 190* all year long here in Ohio, never been an issue.
Your door pin switch issue--first check fuse #2.4 of the inside fuse box--that is the only fuse for van's without the RKE module. If that's known good by testing with a DMM then try rehabbing the existing switches by removing them, squirting with some goop like WD-40 and see how that affects them. Most likely one of those fixes will do the trick.
Its also advisable to buy an EVTM for your year van---they're on eBay gently used, often less than $20 if you're patient to wait for one to pop up.
Your temps sound about normal but instead of relying on the dash gauge do your own measurements. Either an IR thermometer on the coolant hoses or the old school dip type thermometer with stem probe in coolant reservoir.
There are two thermostats commonly used. 165* & 190* IIRC. I run the 190* all year long here in Ohio, never been an issue.
Your door pin switch issue--first check fuse #2.4 of the inside fuse box--that is the only fuse for van's without the RKE module. If that's known good by testing with a DMM then try rehabbing the existing switches by removing them, squirting with some goop like WD-40 and see how that affects them. Most likely one of those fixes will do the trick.
Its also advisable to buy an EVTM for your year van---they're on eBay gently used, often less than $20 if you're patient to wait for one to pop up.
#3
Wow what great advice, thanks.
Hi JWA,
Thanks for the good advice. My thermostat may be a 190. I may change it to 165. I will also check the hoses with my IR thermometer.
I will be sure to check the fuse and the door switches for those lighting problems. Thanks for the fuse number.
Last but not least I will purchase an EVTM.
If you have any electrical questions residential or commercial I am here to help.
Thanks,
Jim
Thanks for the good advice. My thermostat may be a 190. I may change it to 165. I will also check the hoses with my IR thermometer.
I will be sure to check the fuse and the door switches for those lighting problems. Thanks for the fuse number.
Last but not least I will purchase an EVTM.
If you have any electrical questions residential or commercial I am here to help.
Thanks,
Jim
#4
Of bigger concern is your pH of the coolant----should be changed out every two years anyway. Some have used the Motor Craft gold stuff with great effect---not sure its any better than the typical stuff we've been using forever.
I know just 'nuff about sparktricity to be truly dangerous----do need some help with determining air flow and suitable duct sizes for my newly remodeled rear heat-only unit I'm installing now.
#5
As for your air flow you might want to call the folks at Grainger. They have a good tech support staff. Their catalog used to have alot of those specs in the back but I am not sure if it is still there.
Thank you so much.
Jim
PS I just called the person who sold me the van and said the 190-degree tstat needs to stay in the van for the computer to run properly.
Take care and let me know if you need any electrical or generator advice.
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