AC System Help
#1
AC System Help
My compressor crapped out on me right after I bought the truck over two years ago.
I've got a brand new FS10 compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. The shaft seal on the compressor blew out so is it safe to assume that all the refrigerant has leaked out?
My father in law has the tools I need to put the system under vacuum and recharge the system, so I'm hoping I don't really need to recover anything from the system. Its had the bad compressor for 2 years.
By the way its a 94' F350 and the system uses R134a
I've got a brand new FS10 compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube. The shaft seal on the compressor blew out so is it safe to assume that all the refrigerant has leaked out?
My father in law has the tools I need to put the system under vacuum and recharge the system, so I'm hoping I don't really need to recover anything from the system. Its had the bad compressor for 2 years.
By the way its a 94' F350 and the system uses R134a
#2
#3
although I guess that is a good way to flush each component and put it under vacuum to see if each component is good before I put the whole system back together to make it easier to pinpoint a failure in the system.
#4
O-rings are at each line connection. I'm pretty sure most parts stores sell kits, I haven't tried to buy one in a while though.
The main reason I mentioned flushing is because you said the compressor failed. I was assuming you meant a failure other than the shaft seal?
Since you're going to have the system open, you'll need to replace the accumulator, and orifice tube. At this point, flushing is pretty easy to do. When I did mine last year, I flushed the condenser and evaporator on the truck, and the hoses separately.
I didn't trust the amount of oil my reman compressor came with, so I emptied it, and refilled it with the correct amount. The entire system takes 7 oz. I put 5 oz in the compressor, and the rest into the accumulator.
After everything was installed with new o-rings, I pulled a vacuum for 2 hours, then left the gauges on for another hour to make sure I didn't lose any vacuum.
So far, it's worked out well. 38-40 degree vent temps, even when it's in the upper 90s and humid.
The main reason I mentioned flushing is because you said the compressor failed. I was assuming you meant a failure other than the shaft seal?
Since you're going to have the system open, you'll need to replace the accumulator, and orifice tube. At this point, flushing is pretty easy to do. When I did mine last year, I flushed the condenser and evaporator on the truck, and the hoses separately.
I didn't trust the amount of oil my reman compressor came with, so I emptied it, and refilled it with the correct amount. The entire system takes 7 oz. I put 5 oz in the compressor, and the rest into the accumulator.
After everything was installed with new o-rings, I pulled a vacuum for 2 hours, then left the gauges on for another hour to make sure I didn't lose any vacuum.
So far, it's worked out well. 38-40 degree vent temps, even when it's in the upper 90s and humid.
#5
Word of caution on compressors. I just tried a brand new Denso FS-10 brand new compressor that was defective and leaked from the body of the pump where the two halves join. Very obvious that they do not leak test these prior to shipment. My review of Denso compressors is to avoid them at least the aftermarket ones. The OEM ones might be OK. FYI the Denso Compressor I had was made in Korea.
#6
I've never had a problem with a Foir Seasons brand compressor. I always buy new, unless a reman is drastically less. I got mine new for $112 on ebay. Same guy sells in Amazon for $128 and its listed as Four Seasons so I knew it was legit.
My wife has a Toyota Highlander with a Denso compressor and its been a load of trouble. According to worksheet on the vehicle (we bought at 50k) its on its 3rd.
My wife has a Toyota Highlander with a Denso compressor and its been a load of trouble. According to worksheet on the vehicle (we bought at 50k) its on its 3rd.
#7
Replace the condenser, once the compressor fails if any debris was produced it will accumulate in the condenser, and there isn't an effective way to clear that in-situ. Many manufacturers won't cover a compressor's warranty unless a new condenser is installed along, this since the old debris can circulate through the system actually causing the new compressor to fail. You can also buy a little box of HNBR O-rings (R134a compatible), them little buggers are nice to have around, so you'll have plenty of each size and more to replace any other o-ring you come by that needs replacing.
When I did my system I bought this box: plenty of rings to tackle this project and some more (actually more than you'll probably need in a lifetime unless you run a shop). The whole system uses about 8 of them, just take each ring you'll replace and match it to one in the box. The compressor I used was a Sanden, they're excellent units and used as OEM by many Asian car manufacturers.
When I did my system I bought this box: plenty of rings to tackle this project and some more (actually more than you'll probably need in a lifetime unless you run a shop). The whole system uses about 8 of them, just take each ring you'll replace and match it to one in the box. The compressor I used was a Sanden, they're excellent units and used as OEM by many Asian car manufacturers.
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