Looking at a 2006 6.0 ???
#1
Looking at a 2006 6.0 ???
The truck is at a local Ford dealer and has around a 100k miles on it. I'll probably go take a look at it this weekend but have a few questions on what to look for. Is there a point in the miles that once you past should be ok without doing the studs or is it going to happen anyway? What else should I be looking for as this will be my first diesel and what is a fair price for what appears to be stock f250 6.0 in Miami?
Thanks in advance...
Thanks in advance...
#3
Studs are not a maintenance item, lol!
There are PLENTY of 6.0s running around bone stock that have hundreds of thousands of miles without any major repairs.
Alot of what to look for is common sense:
-Turn the key to the first position and listen to the injectors buzz. Do they sound like they're moving freely? or do they sound sticky?
-Start the truck, does it crank weak? (batteries) does it start up smoothly? or does it seriously sound like something is wrong?
-Put the truck in gear and start driving, listen to the engine as you drive, how does it feel driving?
You can answer alot of the questions above by going to autozone and getting a Scangauge 2. You can program the PIDs to monitor through the OBDII port.
Things you want to monitor:
FICM main- you want to make sure it doesn't drop below 47.5-48 volts cranking, starting, running, driving.
Engine Oil & Coolant temp- You should see 190 degrees coolant temp when the truck is warmed up, Oil temp varies but is usually between 5-10 degrees of the coolant. While cruising unloaded at 65 mph, see what the delta is between the EOT and ECT, if it is greater than 15 degrees, the oil cooler and EGR cooler must be replaced and the cooling system flushed.
Looking below the hood:
Coolant- if it's green, it's not a good thing. It should be either Gold or Red.
Degas Bottle- While driving, mash it a few times to see how well the turbo responds, but also you need to see if the truck puked any coolant while on the test drive. If you have a gauge hooked up between the degas and radiator, you can determine 1 of 3 things:
1. The Cooling system is in great shape
2. Headgaskets are leaking or blown- under hard acceleration, the pressure will rise above 16 psi slowly.
3. The EGR cooler is leaking- under hard acceleration, the pressure will rise quickly.
Engine cleanliness- Make sure the engine is clean and not covered in dust like mine was when I got it.
Battery- Check that the terminals are not corroded or loose. The dealership I bought my Excursion from swore up and down they did a complete inspection, but I found loose and corroded battery terminals.
Do some reading here before you head out to look at the truck and you'll be able to make and informed decision:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-problems.html
Here are the codes you'll need for the scanguage:
Transmission Fluid Temperature
07E1221674
046205160674
3010
000100080000
TFT
Degrees Fahrenheit
Engine Oil Temperature
07E0221310
046245130610
3010
00090005F060
EOT
Degrees Fahrenheit
Injection Control Pressure
07E0221446
046205140646
3010
003900640000
ICP
PSI
Mass Fuel Desired
07E0221412
046245140612
3010
006400100000
MFD
Exhaust Back Pressure
07E0221445
046285140645
3010
001D00500000
EBP
PSI
Manifold Air Temperature
07E02216E0
0462051606E0
3008
00090005FFD8
MAT
Degrees Fahrenheit
FICM Main Power
07E02209D0
0462450906D0
3010
006401000000
FMP
Volts
FICM Logic Power
07E02209CF
0462450906CF
3010
006401000000
FLP
Volts
FICM signals for Camshaft and Crankshaft positions are in sync
07E02209CD
0462050906CD
3601
000100010000
SYC
1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync
IPR Duty Cycle
07E0221434
046285140634
3008
00FA00400000
IPR
%
VREF
07E0221155
046245110655
3010
006433330000
CVI
Calibration Voltage Input
Intake Air Temperature 1
07E0221123
046205110623
3010
000100010000
IA1
Degrees Fahrenheit
Intake Air Temperature 2
07E02216A8
0462051606A8
3010
000100010000
IA2
Degrees Fahrenheit
VGT Duty Cycle
07E022096D
04620509066D
3010
00647FFF0000
VGT
%
There are PLENTY of 6.0s running around bone stock that have hundreds of thousands of miles without any major repairs.
Alot of what to look for is common sense:
-Turn the key to the first position and listen to the injectors buzz. Do they sound like they're moving freely? or do they sound sticky?
-Start the truck, does it crank weak? (batteries) does it start up smoothly? or does it seriously sound like something is wrong?
-Put the truck in gear and start driving, listen to the engine as you drive, how does it feel driving?
You can answer alot of the questions above by going to autozone and getting a Scangauge 2. You can program the PIDs to monitor through the OBDII port.
Things you want to monitor:
FICM main- you want to make sure it doesn't drop below 47.5-48 volts cranking, starting, running, driving.
Engine Oil & Coolant temp- You should see 190 degrees coolant temp when the truck is warmed up, Oil temp varies but is usually between 5-10 degrees of the coolant. While cruising unloaded at 65 mph, see what the delta is between the EOT and ECT, if it is greater than 15 degrees, the oil cooler and EGR cooler must be replaced and the cooling system flushed.
Looking below the hood:
Coolant- if it's green, it's not a good thing. It should be either Gold or Red.
Degas Bottle- While driving, mash it a few times to see how well the turbo responds, but also you need to see if the truck puked any coolant while on the test drive. If you have a gauge hooked up between the degas and radiator, you can determine 1 of 3 things:
1. The Cooling system is in great shape
2. Headgaskets are leaking or blown- under hard acceleration, the pressure will rise above 16 psi slowly.
3. The EGR cooler is leaking- under hard acceleration, the pressure will rise quickly.
Engine cleanliness- Make sure the engine is clean and not covered in dust like mine was when I got it.
Battery- Check that the terminals are not corroded or loose. The dealership I bought my Excursion from swore up and down they did a complete inspection, but I found loose and corroded battery terminals.
Do some reading here before you head out to look at the truck and you'll be able to make and informed decision:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-problems.html
Here are the codes you'll need for the scanguage:
Transmission Fluid Temperature
07E1221674
046205160674
3010
000100080000
TFT
Degrees Fahrenheit
Engine Oil Temperature
07E0221310
046245130610
3010
00090005F060
EOT
Degrees Fahrenheit
Injection Control Pressure
07E0221446
046205140646
3010
003900640000
ICP
PSI
Mass Fuel Desired
07E0221412
046245140612
3010
006400100000
MFD
Exhaust Back Pressure
07E0221445
046285140645
3010
001D00500000
EBP
PSI
Manifold Air Temperature
07E02216E0
0462051606E0
3008
00090005FFD8
MAT
Degrees Fahrenheit
FICM Main Power
07E02209D0
0462450906D0
3010
006401000000
FMP
Volts
FICM Logic Power
07E02209CF
0462450906CF
3010
006401000000
FLP
Volts
FICM signals for Camshaft and Crankshaft positions are in sync
07E02209CD
0462050906CD
3601
000100010000
SYC
1 = in sync, 0 = not in sync
IPR Duty Cycle
07E0221434
046285140634
3008
00FA00400000
IPR
%
VREF
07E0221155
046245110655
3010
006433330000
CVI
Calibration Voltage Input
Intake Air Temperature 1
07E0221123
046205110623
3010
000100010000
IA1
Degrees Fahrenheit
Intake Air Temperature 2
07E02216A8
0462051606A8
3010
000100010000
IA2
Degrees Fahrenheit
VGT Duty Cycle
07E022096D
04620509066D
3010
00647FFF0000
VGT
%
#5
a lot of those problems will hide them self if the truck has been started within the last few hrs.. a lot of ficm voltage problems show there head when the truck has sat over night..
ask if they have any repair info on the truck..
if you don't know what your looking for or at take someone with you..will they give you a 30 or 60day warranty? can you buy a warranty? if you can buy a warranty look at it close and see what it covers.. a lot of aftermarket warranties don't cover egr stuff..
ask if they have any repair info on the truck..
if you don't know what your looking for or at take someone with you..will they give you a 30 or 60day warranty? can you buy a warranty? if you can buy a warranty look at it close and see what it covers.. a lot of aftermarket warranties don't cover egr stuff..
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