So a leaky axle seal has led me to ask y'all about the tapered bearings for the Ford 9". I have a 3.75M axle so I have the tapered bearings, which means replacing the seal means replacing the wheel bearing too.

The old bearing was a two piece and the one I got from AZ is a one piece. Other than that it appears to be identical. Heres the question(s).

1. tip to extract old race (cup) from axle housing? I was thinking of fabing a attachment for a custom slide hammer I have, but that could be kind of a pain.

2. How do you press the new one piece bearing into the housing once it has been pressed onto the axle?

I don't have a press so I plan to have a machine shop press the bearing onto the axle on for me. Should I just try to find a two piece bearing? Or will the one piece work fine? Any tips/advice would be awesome.

 

This method works well Bolt-on Lowering the 1957 Ford Ranch Wagon

If you don't have the tools for the housing source it out or see if you can borrow them ..

 

Have you checked to make sure the axle's vent is clear ?

 

So... it wasn't clear, the hose was clogged with dirt, etc. However, the gear fluid wasn't just weeping from the seal, it was cryin a river, so I figured that the seal was probably shot. Judging by the movement it has around the shaft, it is.

Anyway, Im sure getting the race out of the axle housing won't be that difficult... (I hope). Im far more concerned with pressing the new one piece bearing back in. I know you can get the oem (or nos?) two piece bearings online, but I would like to finish this asap so I am hoping the one piece will work.

Ill post pics tomorrow.

 

1973 F100: The only axle bearing available was the ball type. The tapered roller bearing/seal combination was introduced in 1974 and then both were used thru 1979.

The thing is, there is no way to know if a 1974/79: F100/150 or Passenger Car 9" axle shaft has the ball or tapered roller bearing without pulling the axle.

The roller bearing came with the seal, but the seal was also available by itself. Both the ball and tapered roller bearing/seal combo were also used in 1974/79 Passenger Cars & 1978/79 Bronco's.

D4AZ-1225-A .. Tapered Roller Bearing/Seal Combination-includes D4AZ-1177-A seal and D4AZ-1180-A axle bearing retainer. Bearing stamped: U-399-A

D4AZ-1177-A .. Axle Seal-Use with D4AZ-1225-A tapered roller bearing.

 

Oh ok, my bad. I just noticed that when looking for the part online, the ball bearing was often listed "with 3,300 lb axle" and the tapered was listed "with 3,600 or 3,750 axle" (Autozone for example). Its always a bad idea to assume the info the parts stores have is correct.

As for the new bearing I got, it is stamped U399A, but it is a single piece connected to the race (stamped U365L). With the two piece, you can press the race into the axle housing and slide the axle in with the new bearing on it. But with this two piece, the race will be on the axle, so i will have to press the race into the axle housing as I install the axle. Im not sure how this is going to work, and it seems like using the bearing to press the race into the axle housing is likely to harm the seal and/or the bearing.

Maybe I just got the wrong part... guess I will look for a new two piece bearing.

Bearing stamped U399A



Here is the old bearing still on the axle, hopefully coming off today.


Heres the race still pressed into the axle housing, also hopefully coming out today.

 

When purchased from Ford, the race was only available with the tapered roller bearing that is stamped with BIN # U-399-A

BIN = Bearing Industry Number. These numbers are found on all bearings, regardless of where they are located on a vehicle. BIN's are used by auto parts stores and bearing shops.

 

The new bearing is called a "Set 20" and replaces the old tapered bearing.

Josh

 

$29.99 10 Piece Bearing Race and Seal Driver Set You said you have a slide hammer try that on the old race if you have the right attachment otherwise see if you can rent it from Autozone or advansed auto or borrow it from the same guy you take the axle to

Just take the axle shaft to someone and have them do that work $40-$50 max if you supply the parts

 

The race shouldn't be hard to get out. It is a close fit, but not a press fit. Quite often, they can be popped out with a "heel bar" by hooking the bar behind the race and pulling by hand, though you may have to move the bar around a few times to get it out.

Putting the new bearing/race back into place is also quite easy. Once the race is lined up with the housing, a rubber/plastic hammer can be used to drive it in by hitting the end of the axleshaft. You don't have to whack it hard, and you will hear when it fully seats.

 

So drive the race in with the bearing surface ?

 

Yep, won't hurt anything, as you can almost drive in by pushing the end of the axle with your hands. Probably can, if you're stout enough.......

I do recommend pouring a little gear oil into the bearing assembly before inserting the axle(s), just to be 100% sure there is oil in them before driving the truck. But, I'm a bit **** on that, to the point I even pack the "self packing" wet hub bearings in a full floater axle. I've never had one come back with a burned up bearing, yet.

 

You mean I gave harbor freight my money for nothing ? I see your point if you don't have the money it would work in a pinch if you added the gear oil or packed them

 

Ok great! After taking it apart I see that it shouldn't be that hard to press the bearing in as one piece.

Got the bearing off, the race out of the axle housing (used a home fab slide hammer tied to a two jaw puller, worked like a charm...) and everything all cleaned up. Now to press on the new one. I couldn't wait till tuesday, so I went to harbor freight and got a 20 ton press for 1/2 price. I know that these harbor freight presses are not the best, but for $160, I couldn't resist. Especially when I would have had to pay $50 to get it pressed on anyhow. I choose to see it as a $110 press

Ill post pics when Im done.

 

That's the way to do it