When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
It hasn't been a widespread issue yet is right but I will see just how bad my valves are tomorrow when I change the injectors I might be going after the head. If it is going to affect anything it will be these grocery getter engines more than the workhorse 3.5 in the F150 but time will tell.
This statement more than validates everything that I've been saying since the beginning. These engines like to be run hard and worked, that's what they were built for. When I hammer mine in the mountains and ask for more, she's all to happy to comply.
This statement more than validates everything that I've been saying since the beginning. These engines like to be run hard and worked, that's what they were built for. When I hammer mine in the mountains and ask for more, she's all to happy to comply.
Yes same thing with carbon on the egr valve in the 6.0l powerstroke we saw it on the grocery getter but not on the truck that were run hard, same carbon scenario if the carbon has time to settle it will.
Not to get off topic but what do you guys recommend for warm up times?
In my idi I start it up wait about 30 seconds then tap the throttle and let the hi idle do its job. Once that kicks off I drive off (taking it easy for the first 10-15 minutes)
It's been explained to me that it's best for the engine and trans to warm up together.
It is not a big thing they can and will warm up independent of each other since the trans will take many many miles to be at operating temp but the engine will be at operating temp within a few miles.
It is not a big thing they can and will warm up independent of each other since the trans will take many many miles to be at operating temp but the engine will be at operating temp within a few miles.
I have noticed that watching the gauges; what i find most interesting is that when i stop, even after driving many miles towing in mid 90's temps in the summer, with just a quick stop, maybe 10 minutes, the trans cools off enough such that the gauge is back to the cold mark.
I have noticed that watching the gauges; what i find most interesting is that when i stop, even after driving many miles towing in mid 90's temps in the summer, with just a quick stop, maybe 10 minutes, the trans cools off enough such that the gauge is back to the cold mark.
The cold mark is questionable I wonder what the actual temp is inside as shown on the scan tool. I imagine once that thermostatic valve opens and the cooler flows again it can cool it quickly and with the truck being at idle there is no churning of the fluid in the torque converter either so that alone cuts the heat fast.
The cold mark is questionable I wonder what the actual temp is inside as shown on the scan tool. I imagine once that thermostatic valve opens and the cooler flows again it can cool it quickly and with the truck being at idle there is no churning of the fluid in the torque converter either so that alone cuts the heat fast.
Good question; I'd love to have a scan-tool. I do know the needle does not jump right back to norm right when I leave again after a quick stop; it does make a smooth progression up though over a few minutes as opposed to many-many minutes from dead-cold (overnight in the winter). This is my first vehicle with a trans temp gauge. My last truck was a 2004 Ranger 4.0 4X4. The Ranger towed my 3500 boat well; however, I can't even hardly tell it's behind the F-150 (5.0 STX scab, 4x4, 3.55 ls). Watching the trans temp while towing in the KY heat (95-105 in the dead of summer) and KY hills at highway speeds is still new to me, although I've had my boat for years; I've only had the truck since May of 2013.