I'm looking at a '94 crew cab w/8' bed 4WD/MT turbo diesel nearing 200,000 miles.
What sort of condition should I be expecting for $6,000?
Not a dually.
Anything in particular I should watch out for?

 

Don't let anyone fool you. 200k is a lot of miles. If beat on things wear quite quickly. If taken care of things last longer, but NOTHING last forever

-RUST
-Worn out seat
-worn out door hinges
-Worn out clutch
-Worn out ball joints
-Worn out steering linkage
-Worn out u-joints
-Worn out brakes
-Worn out turbo
-Worn out clutch
-Worn out engine
-Caviatation (Coolant becomes acidic from not being changed regularly and EATS holes in the cylinders)

 

Tej condition of the expensive stuff is everything on a 20 year 200+ truck. Price and cost are two different things. I looked at 10 trucks I could not afford to own if they were given to me. Be careful, especially if it is your only daily driver.

I just gave $K for a crew, long bed n/a 7.3, K, bad tires, good AC, with the 4x4 not functioning correctly. It has a salvage title, no frame damage or rust as far as I can tell. I am certain the 4x4 is because there are 35/37 tires front and rear. She looks good from 20 feet, up close she is rough and all the paint on the roof is bad (the wife said it could stay in the drive for a couple of months). I bought it to leave at my property in the country so I needed a functional heavy duty truck. I am already $200 in tie rods and track arm bushings, $200 for new fluids, drivers window needs fixing. It has new master cylinder, proportioning valve, rear cylinders, pads and shoes. It still need the RABS by-passed or replaced, used set of tires, power steering reservoir. . . These things are money pits. This is half work truck half project that will be driven 30 times a years so its all good @$4K +1,500(?).

6 months ago I missed one with turbo and in good to very good shape but needed air conditioner work and some front end stuff and it sold for $6,500 (290k) and there were multiple buyers. I did not know it was a find or I would have been agressive.

I passed on another 94 turbo 3 weeks ago because it was a 5spd, K for $K, great looking truck, needing all the door hinges and both front power windows repaired, and brake work, and the AC charged (?) These are Texas prices

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1312660-brought-home-a-94-crew-4x4.html

 

Thanks for the feedback.
Most of the mechanical stuff I'm not too worried about since I do all my own work.
Replacing u-joints is a given on any vehicle I buy as few seemed to be lubed properly.
Turbo I'm not too worried about since I used to rebuild them. Provided the turbine housing isn't cracked I can rebuild it for the cost of a kit and getting the compressor and turbine wheels balanced.

The guy said he used it mostly for towing, so clutch is a likely suspect.
200,000 seems to be low mileage for anything around here. Obviously higher than I'd want.
My biggest concern is the cavitation issue, especially at that mileage.

There's the SCA test strips, but that only means, I assume, there's good SCA level now, not if there has always been.
One article on it I read suggested pressurizing a cold coolant system, start the engine and look for a lot of white smoke.
I have a combustion leak detector, Lisle Corporation so just need to get some of the test fluid for diesels.
Then, finally, a compression test.
Unfortunately the last three tests would only show if there are leaks now. Of course, that would eliminate any truck unless the seller is willing to lower the price about $4,000.

Any other comon weak points on these engines, aside from cavitation?

 

I am a new owner so it can not really comment on the weak point other than what I read on the forum.

Mine needs the driver window motor repaired which is a common Ford issue. The front fuel tank pickup is gone so it runs out of gas at a 1/4 tank. The bed is on crooked so I will pull the bed and fix both tanks at the same time and repaint the frame.

Cavitation is an unknown, not reversible but stoppable. Mine is not blowing bubbles or white smoke so I am changing the anti-freeze and calling it good. There is not a test to see it there is damage. My anti-freeze is green and the SCA are in the middle zone and the radiator is clean. All you can do is hope for the best.

The RABS seems to be a problem. The PO replaced the master, booster, re cylinders, and the proportioning valve and it still has a soft pedal. They may not have bench bled the master. I was going the pay the local brake shop $100 to check and re-bleed everything. I that does not help, I will take the spring out of the RABS module.

Good luck. I looked at trucks in GA and they seemed expensive. I lived in AL and rust is more a problem than it is in TX.

 

and check out the 7.3 forum Pre-Power Stroke Diesel (7.3L IDI & 6.9L) - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

You shouldn't factor inn the cost of you doing the repairs yourself, or you will be getting the short end of the stick. A repair is a repair.


Air intrusion is a pretty common issue. But the rubber hoses and plastic caps are about $40 last I did them.

Other than that the IDIs are PRETTY reliable. But like anything, they need their maintenance.

O one more thing. The injection pump has a typical life span of 150k. Same for the injectors. The engine will keep running beyond that milage but performance and fuel economy will suffer

And 6k for a IDI truck seem high to me. You would be hard pressed getting that for one up here even if it was rust free

 

I agree. Any repairs would affect my negotiations based garage prices. I just meant needed repairs wouldn't be a deterrent.

Good info on the pump/injectors. I've no idea what rebuilds cost for these engines, but past experience on pumps and injectors tells me it's not trivial.

Thanks for the feedback on the price, I really have no idea what range to expect, although KBB says around $5-$5500. It is advertised as "or best offer" and it's been listed for several weeks.
With that mileage I'm thinking I wouldn't offer over 5000, even if no rust, clean straight body, few-no leaks etc.

 

I read several places the IP and injectors can be bought for $500-750 for the set. I also read the injectors have become obsolete which is not good. I engine is strong and getting 17 mpg so the IP and injectors are at least good enough. I have not seen any estimates on a rebuild. The 7.3 block must be sleeved so it will run more than normal it I remember around 2K. A ring, bearing, gasket set is around $700. I see used engines will 200k on them for $1,000-1,500 fairly often. These engines last a long time. I could never justify a rebuild unless it was for my own education. At $4000-5000 you could just buy another truck with a serviceable engine.

In the old days we used to cut the ring ring grove and through in rings and inserts (bearing) and call it good on the I6 300. It would get you a little further down the road. That may make economic sense.

 

If its clean, rust free, and drives good, go for it. Just expect to drop $1k in fluids, glowplugs, door lock actuators, fueltank pick-ups or anything else that needs attention. Got any pics?

 

I haven't actually gone to see it yet, planning on having a look Sunday if it's still for sale. I'll get some photos then.