Well its time to replace my water pump and i am just looking for a little guidance on the procedure. I have read many other threads but just want to make sure and do it right.

First off, i want go make sure this is a decent water pump. Its Napas brand and is New.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Pump-New/_/R-TFW44018_0258177677

I know i need to rent the fan clutch wrench to get the fan and clutch off and i know the fan is left hand threads. I understand its a lot easier to take it off while all the belts still have tension on them? And then lift the whole assembly (fan/clutch) out together. Also that i should put the same bolts where they came from with some red loktite?

Should I take my radiator out? I know its not that difficult and would make it easier but if i dont need to i would rather not because i have to get the truck running asap to finish a job im working on.

I know another issue is with the top 2 bolt that go in the timing cover. I am a long time user of the cardboard trick where you outline where the bolts need to go and stick then through. I also understand i need to use thread sealer on the top 2 and bottom 2 bolts for the water pump. Should i just seal all the bolts or is that bad? I know i also need to use some gasket maker on the mating surface and gasket of the pump and block.

Im sure im missing some stuff on the thread all help is much appreciated

 

The guy at advance auto said it would be $65 to rent the 1 7/8" clutch wrench for 45 days? Why would i need it that long? Im gonna try carquest and autozone i only need it for a day. Any suggestions

 

I bought a huge crescent wrench from Harbor Freight that works great for about 15 bucks IIRC

This helps a lot too.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...new-trick.html

Remember the top two bolts by the timing gear are shorter to clear the gear. Make sure you get the right ones in there.

Good luck,

Mac.

 

The Advance Auto "rental" should just be a deposit that you get back in full when you return the tool. Basically you pay full price for it in case you decide to keep it. If they try and tell you otherwise talk to a manager. The tool loaner program rules are set by corporate not individual stores.

 

I would take all the belts off. Be really careful not to drop the fan and smash your rad fins.

 

The rental I got from autozone was crap. It wouldn't budge my fan clutch,just sprung open. I just used an 1-7/8 wrench. I'm in the process of replacing my water pump also. Got a few things that I have been procrastinating on that I'm gonna take care of.

 

I used a large crescent wrench myself. Make sure your belts are tight(or put pressure on them), then use your wrench to loosen the large nut.
The whole thing will then spin off easily. Just make sure to use some locktite when putting it back on, lest it fall off when you shut the engine off.

(Do note, however: Unless you're hauling, you should be fine driving around *without* any fan. These trucks are surprisingly cool, especially at idle. The thermostat is closed most of the time, unless you're maxing the engine out).

 

Unless Advance works differently from any other parts store I have rented from (or worked for), what he means is that you have 45 days to return the tool and get your money back. It's just a deposit.

I have not replaced my water pump yet, but I have replaced the fan clutch. You do not have to remove the radiator, but if you don't, use some cardboard or something to protect the fins. You will need to separate the fan shroud from the radiator and lay it back against the engine to get the clutch out, so you might as well remove the rad since it's only 4 more bolts and a couple of hose clamps. It would give you a chance to inspect it better, perhaps even reverse flush it with a garden hose.

For the fan clutch, I used a rental tool from O'Reilly. It was a little sloppy, so I wrapped the forks with duct tape. Worked fine after that. They also rent a tool that helps hold the fan in place while you turn the nut, but try the method where you leave the belts on first because using both tools simultaneously is a serious pain.

Mike

 

Thanks for the help everyone. I was out today just kinda doing some prep work for the job because i couldnt get the pump today. I knew there was something strange about what the guy at advance told me. He really didnt make it clear. Anyway i should be able to get it tomorrow.

I was just unhooking a couple things and realized itd be ALOT easier if i just pull the radiator and i might as well flush it anyway. Got everything drained and just ran out of light for today. Will get back at it tomorrow. Im just gonna firstt try and loosen the fan clutch nut with the belts on and the wrench. Hopefully it wont give me to much of a problem

 

So im gonna also do the t-stat while im in here. I know were only supposed to use the correct Motorcraft 190º one and i had the part number from another thread. Its E5TZ-8575-C. Well i called my local Ford dealer and asked if he knew where i could get one. He told me that was an old part number and that its now a Motorcraft RT1049 and that he could normally find me one but his locater had been down all morning. Well i did some lookong and O'Reilly seems to have the Motorcraft 1049. It says 190º. Is this the right one? I was told only dealers and the internet had them

 

Nevermind about the t-stat i just went ahead and ordered it online. That way i know i got the right one and dont have to drive all across town

 

my experience on an 85, 86, and 89 was that the pulleys just turn with with the belts tight. I borrowed a powerbuilt fan clutch wrench master kit from my local auto parts store with a $100 deposit. it has a second tool with 1/2 in sq drive that goes around the four pulley nuts like a big open wrench. the first time i did one was stuck on pretty good, I had someone help me while I held the tool on the pulley with both hands. the other guy tapped the end of the wrench on the fan clutch with a 4 lb hammer till it broke free. I also found its nice to have someone hold the waterpump while you guide everything into place and get the bolts started. rtv on all bolts is fine + a bead that goes around the entire gasket around each bolt hole.

 

So i got the radiator and shroud and everything out today. Glad i did that now i have alot more room to work. I did a good flush with the hose. Im happy to find out that my radiator is "almost" brand new. No seepage or corrosion even in the outlets. The water i flushed out was only green. No nasty brown stuff like ive seen in some others. Replacing the lower hose also.

As far as the bolts for the water pump, should i use the gasket maker on then or loktite? And i should loktite the fan clutch nut? Or the bolts for the fan? Or both?

Thanks for the help everyone

 

I have always used RTV on the four bolts that it says to seal. Definitely locktite the threads on the large LHT nut on the fan clutch. There is no reason to do the other four.

 

So i got the fan clutch kit from advance auto for a $65 deposit. It has the 1 7/8" wrench and the fork looking thing that goes around the bolts on the pulley. It the right size and everything but i am doing this by myself and damn the fan clutch nut is on there tight. I only weigh about 150 lbs so i dont have alot of leverage but i got a buddy coming over to hold the pulley while i turn the wrench. Any suggestions?