Any advice would be very appreciated. 1999 F350 single rear wheel. Right rear disc brake locked up after pads wore out and destroyed the rotor. I am replacing rotor/pads but having trouble compressing the caliper. I have never compressed a rear caliper and am not sure if it is done the same as a front. I am trying to use a C clamp and having no luck. Any ideas? Scared to ruin the caliper by using the wrong technique. Also, does this job typically require the brakes be bled afterwards? Thanks for your time.

 

Sounds like you need to replace the calipers . It should compress fairly easy with a c clamp .

 

First, open up the master cylinder so the fluid has a place to go when you compress the caliper.

Just lay the lid on top so it keeps clean.

Then try to compress the caliper. If it won't compress then you will need to remove the mounting hardware along with the caliper.

It probably is shot as well. Consider replacing or rebuilding that along with new pads and rotor.

 

ok, thank you

 

just had a long talk with the caliper, apparently it doesn't respond to threats. I think it has a bad attitude so its getting replaced. Any advice on tricks for bleeding the brakes would be appreciated, i've only done that on older cars without antilock systems so i don't know if it takes a different approach. Thank you for the input.

 

Same exact procedure as non abs vehicles. Easier with a friend but not impossible alone with a hose and a plastic soda bottle. I'd recommend replacing both sides but it's your rig.

 

Do the same procedure for bleeding as always.

 

If you crack the bleed screw open when compressing the piston back in, that can overcome a blocked line or hose.

Brian

 

got it, thanks. Also, I'm seeing pad/rotor kits <(REAR SET) 54074DS Drilled Dimpled Slotted Brake Disc Rotor (SRW) + Brake pads> on ebay for cheaper than my local NAPA (NAPA Auto Parts is where I usually get my stuff). Any opinion on the wisdom of getting them online? I am concerned about the possibility of less quality materials in the stuff online being the reason for the cheaper price.

 

I always found the OEM to be the best on the superduties.

 

It sounds like the caliper froze up and took out the pads and rotor. This could be why you can't get it to push back. The caliper should push back in just like a front caliper would.

I normally get a lot if parts cheaper online, but for some reason brakes are about the same price. I got my last caliper and pads at Autozone.

.

 

Call me old school , but , I like to purchase hard parts from a supplier I can go face to face with if there is a warranty issue . I would spend the extra $, within reason , with your local parts house . Just my 2 cents ...