I HAVE A 94 F-150 4.9LTR 4X4 PLOWTRUCK/YARDTRUCK. I DONT USE IT ON THE ROAD BUT IT RUNS RICH AND CHUGS WHEN STARETING ON COLD MOTOR. I FIGURED I WOULD CHECK CODES FOR A PLACE TO START. THE CODES O GOT IN ORDER ARE THESE -- 522 , 522 , 7332 , 7334 , 7332 , 7334. NOT ONLY DO I SEE NO 4 DIGIT COEDS LISTED FOR TRHESE YEARS BUT THE 522 CODE IS - NOT IN PARK/NEUTRAL- AND IT IS A STICK TRANNY. HAS ANYONE RUN ACROSS THIS AND DOES ANYONE KNOW WHAT THE TWO 4 DIGFIT CODES ARE???? THANKS FROM A NEWBY MIKE@TOPPENTECH

 

Why are you shouting at us? Please turn off your caps lock as it makes it difficult read plus the fact it is the internet equivalent to shouting.

94 should be 3 digit codes and both KOEO and CM codes repeat, there will be a single flash for separator code "10" between the KOEO and CM codes no zero just a single flash. Run the self test again using that information and you should have little trouble following the pattern.

Looks like 522 332 and 334 and a combination of all three KOEO|CM|KOER but double check. No need to run KOER yet if you had, need to clear up KOEO codes first if any.

522 with a manual trans, you must hold clutch pedal to floor during test.

 

howdy danr1: thank you for your reply. I will double check the codes but I did run koeo 2 times and got the same thing. I have never seen 4 digit codes before. I have driven and fixed fords all my life (starting with my 50-f2-no codes here) and am familiar with the procedure. don't know I guess. as to the caps-- I apologize. I get to typing and don't look until i'm done and then i'm too lazy to retype stuff. mike

 

How are you pulling these codes? Counting flashes?

As Dan stated before, there are no 4 digit codes for this vintage truck.

 

Yea it'll be three not four knowing that it'll help, best bet is a Innova 3145 gonna have the truck for a while (or ford OBD1 in general) its worth the twenty bucks keep from having to count the little flashing light.

Based on what you stated so far and if number are correct 332 and 334 and with rough/stumble cold start/idle suggests the EGR valve might be hung open.

Stuck in place doesn't fully close and doesn't open as it should either.

Quick test for that well for one see if it'll move manually second simply block it off see if it runs better, cut a piece of tin sandwich it between the valve and plenum blocking the passage way, making sure it can't suck air via its gasket too.

522 if correct and sounds like it is, is nothing you can disregard it its from not holding the clutch pedal to the floor during the test.

Mostly speculation at this point though, a shot in the dark using info posted thus far, info might not be 100% correct just yet.

The caps lock thing no harm no foul just wanted to mention it, it makes it awfully hard to read.