1966 f100 steering
#1
#2
#4
Rick Welcome to and the Slicks Forum.
The cabs on these ol trucks are small, it wasn't til 73 that Ford added 4" to the rear of the cab. The top of the seat already hits the back wall. There aren't any good answers for you. I can drive my 66 then get into my 06 XL and have to reach out to the wheel then see the bottom of the windshield 10 yards out.
If you like your Slick, you are gonna to have to learn to deal with the confined space.
John
The cabs on these ol trucks are small, it wasn't til 73 that Ford added 4" to the rear of the cab. The top of the seat already hits the back wall. There aren't any good answers for you. I can drive my 66 then get into my 06 XL and have to reach out to the wheel then see the bottom of the windshield 10 yards out.
If you like your Slick, you are gonna to have to learn to deal with the confined space.
John
#5
Has anyone used a seat with a thinner back rest to gain an inch or 2?
Or maybe a tilt wheel conversion.
EDIT: are there many people looking for a shorter shaft? If so I could pull one apart and see how tough it would be to shorten one. I'm gonna have an extra shaft with the column shifter when I do my body swap, and I have a lathe and a mill, so nothing is impossible, it just may end up being not to cost effective. But if there is a need I'll give it a try.
Or maybe a tilt wheel conversion.
EDIT: are there many people looking for a shorter shaft? If so I could pull one apart and see how tough it would be to shorten one. I'm gonna have an extra shaft with the column shifter when I do my body swap, and I have a lathe and a mill, so nothing is impossible, it just may end up being not to cost effective. But if there is a need I'll give it a try.
#6
Rick Welcome to and the Slicks Forum.
The cabs on these ol trucks are small, it wasn't til 73 that Ford added 4" to the rear of the cab. The top of the seat already hits the back wall. There aren't any good answers for you. I can drive my 66 then get into my 06 XL and have to reach out to the wheel then see the bottom of the windshield 10 yards out.
If you like your Slick, you are gonna to have to learn to deal with the confined space.
John
The cabs on these ol trucks are small, it wasn't til 73 that Ford added 4" to the rear of the cab. The top of the seat already hits the back wall. There aren't any good answers for you. I can drive my 66 then get into my 06 XL and have to reach out to the wheel then see the bottom of the windshield 10 yards out.
If you like your Slick, you are gonna to have to learn to deal with the confined space.
John
#7
Has anyone used a seat with a thinner back rest to gain an inch or 2?
Or maybe a tilt wheel conversion.
EDIT: are there many people looking for a shorter shaft? If so I could pull one apart and see how tough it would be to shorten one. I'm gonna have an extra shaft with the column shifter when I do my body swap, and I have a lathe and a mill, so nothing is impossible, it just may end up being not to cost effective. But if there is a need I'll give it a try.
Or maybe a tilt wheel conversion.
EDIT: are there many people looking for a shorter shaft? If so I could pull one apart and see how tough it would be to shorten one. I'm gonna have an extra shaft with the column shifter when I do my body swap, and I have a lathe and a mill, so nothing is impossible, it just may end up being not to cost effective. But if there is a need I'll give it a try.
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#8
Welcome to FTE!! If decide to swap column for later model then may want to consider front disc brakes??? In addition, member posted pic on similar thread where he/she swapped the column bracket with the original and thus did not need to use shims?? Again, welcome looking forward to your input.
#9
Ah yes, the long standing problem for those of us 6' and taller. The older we get, the tighter the cabs get.
The following applies to F100/250 2WD only:
1965/66 F100/250 Rangers (2WD only) came with bucket seats, same seats used in 1965/66 Mustangs. Have a thinner seat cushion and lazy back than the fat seat cushion, lazy back of the bench seat.
In order to install, 4 special brackets are required that bolt to the floor pan, then to the seat tracks. These are used to raise and level the bucket seats.
The good news is, these brackets are reproduced by FTE member Bill W. The Mustang buckets are the same thru 1970, are EZ to find, the upholstery and the padding has been repro'd.
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1961/70's came with a 3 spoke steering wheel using either a horn button or horn ring. 1971/77's and 1978/79's came with a slightly smaller wheel that has a vinyl horn pad that contains the horn switch.
If you use one of these wheels and/or columns, you'll have to come up with a solution to get the horn to blow.
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1965/66 columns with M/S have a longer steering shaft than 1966's with P/S. There are myriad different length M/S and P/S steering shafts used 1967/79.
If the truck has an A/T: 1978/79 columns have the NSS located on the trans, while 1961/77's have it located on the steering column.
This trans mounted NSS cannot be swapped to a 1961/77 trans, so you'll have to figure out what to do with the NSS
1978 was the first year a tilt wheel was available.
IMO, swapping in the Mustang bucket seats is the best solution for gaining a bit of extra leg room.
#10
Hack the original column in two and take some length out of it. We did that on a 56 Big Back Glass we restored awhile back. We took 3" out of it and then installed a steering wheel out of a 62-64 Lincoln with the Rosewood Trim option along with all the matching dash *****. Looked really good.
Be sure you mark all the parts so when they (all the tubes and shaft) are welded back together they are in their same radial alignment with each other. As I remember I sleeved the steering shaft and welded the sleeve to the shaft rather than just butt welding, much stronger that way.
Be sure you mark all the parts so when they (all the tubes and shaft) are welded back together they are in their same radial alignment with each other. As I remember I sleeved the steering shaft and welded the sleeve to the shaft rather than just butt welding, much stronger that way.
#11
If should decide to 'hack' couple inches of the column there's a 'how to' article in the Fordification.com (67-72) forum may find helpful. Keep in mind there may be measurement differences between the 67-72 columns compared to that of the 65-66 so I strongly recommend measure then go back and measure again, can always remove than add a little.
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