Alternator Question
#1
Alternator Question
My alternator decided to take a dump on me the other day and I was going to go back with a higher 140 amp unit. The problem I've run into with the parts stores is the single vs dual alternator system. All the higher amperage units say dual alternator (i.e. Autozone DL3668-8-11) and mine is a single system.
My question is will this alternator work on a single alternator system? Yes, I know everyone is going to say buy a DC Power, but I'm looking for something I can buy locally, just need to know if the dual are single compatible. Thanks!
My question is will this alternator work on a single alternator system? Yes, I know everyone is going to say buy a DC Power, but I'm looking for something I can buy locally, just need to know if the dual are single compatible. Thanks!
#2
#4
If you got the Smaller Pulley to put on that alternator you would be doing Great things
Keep in mind the 140 amp rating is at Peak rpm rating so IDK what RPM that is exactly around 2000 IIRC I am SURE I am off some rpm here so FWIW
SO a smaller Pulley will help
We have are Highest Power DEMAND at COLD Idle and these trucks are Power STARVED with a 110 amp at cold start. With a OEM 110 amp you could Drain the Batteries for 10+ minutes until the alternator get caught up this is HARD on the Batteries and FICM and Alternator itself
Upon startup we hit 225+ Amps and Falls to 140-120 amps Fairly Fast and Hold there till Glow Plugs stop and continues to trickle down to 90-80 Amps as Batteries get charged and truck heats up some
So a alternator that will put out 140+ amps at Idle would be Idle MORE is GREAT But to achieve this you typically have to get an alternator with a peak output of 200 Amps PLUS
BUT a Smaller Pulley would Help Lots
Keep in mind the 140 amp rating is at Peak rpm rating so IDK what RPM that is exactly around 2000 IIRC I am SURE I am off some rpm here so FWIW
SO a smaller Pulley will help
We have are Highest Power DEMAND at COLD Idle and these trucks are Power STARVED with a 110 amp at cold start. With a OEM 110 amp you could Drain the Batteries for 10+ minutes until the alternator get caught up this is HARD on the Batteries and FICM and Alternator itself
Upon startup we hit 225+ Amps and Falls to 140-120 amps Fairly Fast and Hold there till Glow Plugs stop and continues to trickle down to 90-80 Amps as Batteries get charged and truck heats up some
So a alternator that will put out 140+ amps at Idle would be Idle MORE is GREAT But to achieve this you typically have to get an alternator with a peak output of 200 Amps PLUS
BUT a Smaller Pulley would Help Lots
#5
#6
I run a DC Power 190amp Myself it puts out 140 amp at Idle so Im OK with that
when I changed it to DC Alt my OEM alternator was 13 Months old with 5K only on it basically just replaced it
so Due to Circumstance I couldn't do a Bigger DC at the time cause they are spendy
Had I originaly known what was going to happen I would have went with a DC 250 amp it would have been Overkill But
But the Dc 190amp Does Great charges Battery fast keeps up very well I cant complain
#7
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#8
If you got the Smaller Pulley to put on that alternator you would be doing Great things
Keep in mind the 140 amp rating is at Peak rpm rating so IDK what RPM that is exactly around 2000 IIRC I am SURE I am off some rpm here so FWIW
SO a smaller Pulley will help
We have are Highest Power DEMAND at COLD Idle and these trucks are Power STARVED with a 110 amp at cold start. With a OEM 110 amp you could Drain the Batteries for 10+ minutes until the alternator get caught up this is HARD on the Batteries and FICM and Alternator itself
Upon startup we hit 225+ Amps and Falls to 140-120 amps Fairly Fast and Hold there till Glow Plugs stop and continues to trickle down to 90-80 Amps as Batteries get charged and truck heats up some
So a alternator that will put out 140+ amps at Idle would be Idle MORE is GREAT But to achieve this you typically have to get an alternator with a peak output of 200 Amps PLUS
BUT a Smaller Pulley would Help Lots
Keep in mind the 140 amp rating is at Peak rpm rating so IDK what RPM that is exactly around 2000 IIRC I am SURE I am off some rpm here so FWIW
SO a smaller Pulley will help
We have are Highest Power DEMAND at COLD Idle and these trucks are Power STARVED with a 110 amp at cold start. With a OEM 110 amp you could Drain the Batteries for 10+ minutes until the alternator get caught up this is HARD on the Batteries and FICM and Alternator itself
Upon startup we hit 225+ Amps and Falls to 140-120 amps Fairly Fast and Hold there till Glow Plugs stop and continues to trickle down to 90-80 Amps as Batteries get charged and truck heats up some
So a alternator that will put out 140+ amps at Idle would be Idle MORE is GREAT But to achieve this you typically have to get an alternator with a peak output of 200 Amps PLUS
BUT a Smaller Pulley would Help Lots
The reason I didn't go with a DC is if I breakdown on the road I want to be able to get a warranty replacement quick & easy. If I didn't travel it would be a different story.
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