I've lurked here for years and have learned a lot.

I have an 2004 F-350 6.0 CC LB 4x4 SRW I purchased new. It currently has 88k miles. Completely stock from the factory except for exhaust. It sits for long periods of time as it is only used to tow a 17k toyhauler or truck camper.

A couple weeks ago the throttle pedal went dead on me. Wouldn't do nothing above idle. Pulled the EGR and it was caked and just slight evidence of wetness. Changed out the EGR and no more issues with throttle, ran great.

Today I decide to run an errand with it just to stretch its legs.

I'm now concerned about the temp difference between water temp and oil temp. I've been planning to do an entire Bulletproof kit for a while for peace of mind. We travel long distances and heavy when using the truck.

Scangauge II is reading water temp at 188 degrees and EOT at 219 degrees. This is just cruising at 65mph down the freeway. Should I be concerned at the 30+ degree difference.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

 

188 could be where you t-stat is at now for being open, lots of discussion on how the opening temp drops with age. Assuming that is true for yours and the Deltas stayed there with no load, then yeah possible problem with oil cooler. You will need to do a full on flush of the system before you swap it out anyway, so IMHO you should do it and see if it help with the Deltas. Possible, not likely, that there is an obstruction that can be blown out by back flushing the system.

Just my 2c

Clayton

 

Yes it needs Fixed

30* spread is Double limits set per ford

Do you know what style EGR Cooler you have???round or square??



Since you mention Bullet Proof

Personaly I see no problem with the OEM oil Cooler setup as long as the Cooling system is CLEAN and running a Coolant filter Vs spend money for the BPD Air to Oil setup that leaves Lots of Old oil in per each change and its spendy

Seams like a lot of Money for a BPD oil cooler that all it really does is Eliminate the Chance of Oil/Coolant mix that's Rare anyways since they Both cool the Oil when working right

Proper flush and New Oil cooler and you will be Good as New and Better then new if it got a Cooling filter & ELC that's Silicate free

 

Totally agree Benny .......... posting this perspective on one of the other forums will not help your popularity though - lol.

That being said, there are a few folks out there that seem to be doing all the right things and they have plugged multiple oil coolers. Hard to explain, but I do think that they are in a very small percentage group.

 

I have the square style cooler.

I've heard good things about the BPD set up and started putting money away long ago for the change.

Truck is paid for and has been great until this issue reared its head. Those temps were cruising down the highway for 30 minutes and the temp difference between the two really never changed.

Truck is paid for and I love it. Just figured putting the few thousand $$ towards the BP kit would be better than using it for a down payment and then monthly payments on a new one.

I haven't done head gaskets/studs yet either. Was going to do all this at one time.

Thought I was prepared but kinda bumming now

 

Thanks Clayton

Temp relation between the two never changed much, maybe 2-3 degrees tops.

 

I know its a Gamble for Popularity LOL

I not saying its a Bad thing for BPD Oil Cooler

I just saying its Spendy for what it does really


Only thing that Bugs me is a Dry Block is 28qt ??? and only 15qt get changed per each time

What do you hear as far as Oil Per Dry Block fillup???????????????????or How Many qt to fill

 

Yes Now this PART BPD EGR Cooler is the Best out there!!!

Your Golden

 

This is why I like these forums, didn't realize only 15qt get changed each time. Maybe I didn't research well enough lol.

Don't need the popularity but I do need the best odds at not having these issues. I'm more of a value and service shopper rather than price. I come from the thought that cheap is not good and good is not cheap. But when it comes to the 6.0 I just don't know enough.




If I was going to be proactive, and since I'm going to be doing some updates to the EGR system already, any other recommendations on what else you would do while in there at 88k miles?

Would like to be as proactive as possible. Truck is 100% stock as it was the day it was purchased aside from exhaust.

 

The BPD Oil Cooler also Eliminates the Oil Cooler Bypass valve of the Stock Setup

That's probably got a Handful of folks to but not Often

It Definatly has advantages with the BPD setup

But the Oil thing is a Hangup for me (Mainly cause the Injectors) A guy could modify it to Blow the Lines and Cooler out at each oil change and maybe change 20qt each oil change interval

 

Maybe you guys Saw this Looks promising but spendy I want one

I know the Oil Shears but

This Oil Cleaning Centrifuge Sure would help Injector Spools and All round engine wear

Dieselcraft.com Engine Oil Cleaning Inline Engine Oil Cleaning Centrifuges



http://www.dieselcraft.com/docfiles/OC-25_Brochure.pdf
Mounts to Truck and Cleans as you drive

 

I stopped short of ARPs since mine's an '07. Most of what I did do is in my sig: you shouldn't need to worry about the STC fitting or the stand pipes, tho I do recall something about dummy plugs for your year? Also if you bought it new, see if you have the Standard 110A alternator, you should consider at least a 140A or higher and putting your batts on a dusulfating float charger when it's sitting (like the BatterMINDer 1500 say).

that'll get you started...