Hello all! I have been a member for a little while, but this is my first post. I have a 2002 F-250 Supercab 4x4 V-10 6 speed. I want to upgrade the differential to some sort of limited slip, maybe an Eaton Truetrac, but I’m confused about correct identification of the differential. The tag doesn’t seem to conform with the examples I find online. I would be greatly appreciative for help. Here’s what the tag says with spaces:

V 414 B
105 2B04

I’m pretty sure the ratio is 3.73. There’s a second tag that’s says: 140 Synth only. I guess that’s for the lube.

Thank you,
Doug

 

The second tag is the lubricant specification, 75W140 full synthetic.

Does your truck still have a door tag? Under "AXLE" on the tag will be an alpha-numeric designator that is sometimes easier to decode. I just 'Googled' that tag number on my '01 and the info came right up. I've read that decoding the axle tags is tricky and sometimes results in the wrong information.

A Ford dealer can also decode the axle information from your VIN.

 

Thank you for the reply. I think I figured it out from the tags and the VIN code. It’s on open differential (code 31) Ford 10.5 with 3.73 ratio. The front is a Dana 60.

I’m considering a Truetrac for the rear axle as an upgrade.

Doug

 

I installed a remanufactured Ford electric locker in my 10.5" differential (2001 F250 Super Duty). The installation requires wiring a switch and harness. (I used a "Dana" kit I got off e-bay, about $100...) The Ford electric locker carrier is a nice unit with 4 cluster gears. It looks stout, and came with a 2-year warranty.

You have to search a bit to find one that does not require a core return as part of the sale, but they are out there. Others have found them in salvage yards. A complete axle will save you the hassle of cutting or drilling the axle housing for the wiring, and you can probably get the connector and pigtail wiring with it.

I went this way because limited slip axles sometimes engage or 'lock up' when driving at highway speeds as my older 'factory unit' did, and fishtailed the truck on icy roads.

 

Thank you for the suggestion. I’ll look into the Ford electronic locker. I didn’t know there was such a differential. I’m in north east Georgia and we don’t get a lot of snow anymore, but I want to improve traction when it does snow. I love roaming the north Georgia mountains and I’m going to retire in a little over two years. I want to make some upgrades to my old F-250 so I can hunt and explore some rougher areas.

 

I see what you mean about driving on icy roads. Fishtailing would be very bad. I searched around but only found complete axle assemblies with the Ford electronic locker. The ones I found were 2K+. I also found that Eaton has an Elocker that I think will fit my Ford 10.5 sterling. The fit is for a Dana 70 with 10.5 ring gear and 35 spline 1 1/2 inch axles. It’s about twice the price of the Truetrac but something for me to consider.

 

The ford elocker is BC3Z 4026-B can be had for under 600 with shipping

 

Thank you for the info! I see this part number fits newer models, probably because it wasn’t around in 2002. I wonder if it will fit a 2002 Sterling?

 

It fits, BUT there is no provision for passing the wires thru the diff case/housing. I believe there is 2 wires (+ / - 12v) you need to pass it to turn it on and off. I saw a few people just drill a 1/4- 3/8 hole and pass the wires thru, then solder and shrink wrap them inside the housing. There is a factory connector also that you can attempt to mount, its an extra 100-150 I think they are. Here's an install where he used a cable gland to pass the wires thru and try and seal it up.

 

Thank you for the interesting info and video! Although I have the mechanical abilities, I don’t have the tools necessary for such an installation…….yet.

 

I put the elec. locker in a housing from an '00, It fit fine, you will have to shim it for contact pattern and side play, Here are photo's of the cable relief I cut into the flange. I sealed it with "oil resistant" silicone sealant. I chose to grove the housing because I don't want to cut the leads if I have to pull the carrier again for some reason...

I also removed the factory plug and extended the leads, using an aftermarket (Delphi) connector/plug set I purchased from Amazon.

 

Thank you again for the excellent information! I can do everything myself except measure and adjust the gear pattern. I don’t have a dial indicator or the know how. I think in know someone who can do that for me.

 

There are FIVE critical measuerments: pinion bearing preload, carrier side play, gear lash and of course, the contact pattern. If you are going to dive into this I can send a number of links I found helpful.

Let me know....