Building the 6.9!!
#1
Building the 6.9!!
Got a 85 ford 6.9, about 167k on her, so i think could be 267k?? but over this winter i am looking to build her up a little. I have a very tired ats turbo on it now, doesnt even hit 4 psi anymore WOT, Leaking oil on the cold side witch is not good!!
Anyway, i want to do headgaskets, headstuds, Going to look for a HX35 turbo, make my own up pipes and mount, intercooler, Probaly going with a moose pump not sure on injectors quite yet.. oh and a budget build, most expensive is gonna be the moose pump and injectors..everything else used or so.
So here comes the questions, i want to LOWER Compression a few points, i live in PA so it does get cold during winter and it is my daily driver.. I would like to accomplish this the easiest way, i cannot afford to tear the whole motor apart and mill pistons!! Can you get a thicker headgasket?? just enough for 1 or 2 points lower?? I am looking to run MAX PSI at 15 PSI!! Victor Rienz or Felpro??
OR onther way to run more boost that im not sure off, R&D idi performance cam.. Camshafts... Says they hit 34PSI with stock compression?????? Has anyone delt with them or seen this before??
Any input would be great, was going to do a cummins swap but screw that everyone does it.. I want somthing differant.. Im in research stage have alot of hours in front of computer sceen and found answers to everything except these questions..
Also total time of build once i get all the parts looking to have a week turn around.. Meaning 40 hours or so working on it when im off WORK..
Anyway, i want to do headgaskets, headstuds, Going to look for a HX35 turbo, make my own up pipes and mount, intercooler, Probaly going with a moose pump not sure on injectors quite yet.. oh and a budget build, most expensive is gonna be the moose pump and injectors..everything else used or so.
So here comes the questions, i want to LOWER Compression a few points, i live in PA so it does get cold during winter and it is my daily driver.. I would like to accomplish this the easiest way, i cannot afford to tear the whole motor apart and mill pistons!! Can you get a thicker headgasket?? just enough for 1 or 2 points lower?? I am looking to run MAX PSI at 15 PSI!! Victor Rienz or Felpro??
OR onther way to run more boost that im not sure off, R&D idi performance cam.. Camshafts... Says they hit 34PSI with stock compression?????? Has anyone delt with them or seen this before??
Any input would be great, was going to do a cummins swap but screw that everyone does it.. I want somthing differant.. Im in research stage have alot of hours in front of computer sceen and found answers to everything except these questions..
Also total time of build once i get all the parts looking to have a week turn around.. Meaning 40 hours or so working on it when im off WORK..
#2
First off, there is no need to drop compression with only 15psi. Your engine will last forever at that boost level. A cam is a good way to bleed off dynamic compression. The one R&D sells is great for that and will also help with spooling a turbo as well. As for your question about R&D, they are a well known company on this board and have a good reputation as well. And it is true that he hit 34psi. He has hit like 342hp/759tq. Another idi hit 356hp/676tq that same day. They were both running a lot more fuel with their Db4 IPs than a normal or even slightly modded Db2 can provide. If you want numbers close to that, R&D can help you there as well. Anyway, good luck on your build and post lots of pics!!!
#3
My opinions/suggestions would be:
1) skip the moose products, they are over-priced. R&D has quality pumps and injectors for much less.
2) use the money you saved by ~not buying moose products to buy a better turbo than the HX35. R&D is starting to carry Bullseye Power which are Borg Warner T3 frame turbos. They will bolt up to your ATS kit with less modification than fitting a Holset. Building a full custom turbo set up as you suggested will blow your 40 labor hour time budget out of the water.
3) if you can, upgrade the cam, although it is hard on the time budget. Forget lowered compression. That is for lots of fuel and huge power builds. With studs, don't limit yourself to 15 psi. You can boost way more with no issues.
1) skip the moose products, they are over-priced. R&D has quality pumps and injectors for much less.
2) use the money you saved by ~not buying moose products to buy a better turbo than the HX35. R&D is starting to carry Bullseye Power which are Borg Warner T3 frame turbos. They will bolt up to your ATS kit with less modification than fitting a Holset. Building a full custom turbo set up as you suggested will blow your 40 labor hour time budget out of the water.
3) if you can, upgrade the cam, although it is hard on the time budget. Forget lowered compression. That is for lots of fuel and huge power builds. With studs, don't limit yourself to 15 psi. You can boost way more with no issues.
#4
Thanks to 88Ford and Ford F834 for saving me alot of writing I agree 100% and would only like to add one thing. The 342whp / 759wtq was with a smoked clutch that started slipping around 2200 when the turbo really started spooling.
If you had a banks kit i would say go for a holset, but since you have an ATS (assuming 093) a BW based turbo is basically bolt on.
If you had a banks kit i would say go for a holset, but since you have an ATS (assuming 093) a BW based turbo is basically bolt on.
#5
Thanks to 88Ford and Ford F834 for saving me alot of writing I agree 100% and would only like to add one thing. The 342whp / 759wtq was with a smoked clutch that started slipping around 2200 when the turbo really started spooling.
If you had a banks kit i would say go for a holset, but since you have an ATS (assuming 093) a BW based turbo is basically bolt on.
If you had a banks kit i would say go for a holset, but since you have an ATS (assuming 093) a BW based turbo is basically bolt on.
#6
#7
Just to clarify, both Banks and ATS use T3 mounting flange, but the outlet and exhaust elbows get tricky as far as plumbing the exhaust. A straight 3" V band outlet and a turbo that allows 360* clocking of both housings around the center section will give you the best flexibility.
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