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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

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  #1  
Old 10-09-2013, 01:00 PM
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Timing cover gasket & timing chain...

Hey Folks,

I need to replace my timing cover gasket. I have a leak and this is most-likely the last "nice" day I'll have free to tear the front end of the motor apart and change the gasket. I don't want to push it off any longer than not be able to do it because it's the dead of winter.

Anyway, I have a few questions... I bought the gasket kit a few months ago when I should have been done this. I did not however buy a timing chain. My engine has about 166,000 miles on it and even if it's been done by a previous owner that was god knows how long ago.

SO my first question here is has any one had good luck with a parts-store replacement or should I push this project off and order a double roller chain or something fancy of the sorts from summit racing or wherever? Most of the parts stores used to have reliable parts as far as i remember but the last time I bought an idler pulley, it was bad out of the box. At least that was easy to fix. If the timing chain isn't up to par well, we all know how "easy" it is to just replace it. ha-ha

Next, while the coolant is drained out should I replace the t-stat? The stat in the truck is relatively new (i put it in 2 years ago) and is a 180* stat. I bought a 195* some time back just never got around to it. Frankly I don't know why I bought a 195 but what is the benefit? Will I get heat in the cab that much faster? Does it help with fuel economy?

EDIT: since theres potential for getting coolant in the oil, Im going to change the oil as well. Anyone have a recommendation on a particular type/brand of oil I should be using in a "high mileage" engine? I never really believed in the different types of oil but I have heard that some are better than others. Not really sure if a "high mileage" oil is really worth the money or do I just stick with traditional motor oil.

Lastly, if anyone has any other input i'm all ears!

Thanks for the help,
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'96 F-250 XLT 4x4 Supercab 7.3 Powerstroke; my immaculately clean truck w/ 175,000+ miles
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:11 PM
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Parts store timing sets always work fine for me.

I ran a 180 degree thermostat in my truck to help with pinging problems. It was doing that because I had ripped off some of the emissions equipment. The 195 can help with emissions and fuel economy and helps the engine run correctly IF it's setup like the factory had it.

Run any type of oil you like, so long as you keep it changed. That's the important part, changing it on a regular basis.

The hard part with the timing cover is the oil pan. I can never get it off without dropping the oil pan down some. Some people say they do it, but it's never worked for me. Your kit should have two little pieces of gasket in it that are for the oil pan.

And carefully check your harmonic balancer where the front seal runs. If it has a groove in it, go back to the store and get a repair sleeve or "speedi sleeve" to fix it.
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Old 10-09-2013, 03:31 PM
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I never have cared for the OE replacement rubber band chains. I put a Cloyes double roller in mine. Which engine do you have?

Many people use all types of oil, but a lot of us here use 15W40 in Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac. It's cheapest at your local Walmart. And the thermostat thing, I put a 180* stat in mine and the old was a 195*. The 180 runs a bit better.
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Old 10-09-2013, 05:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Franklin2 View Post
Parts store timing sets always work fine for me.

I ran a 180 degree thermostat in my truck to help with pinging problems. It was doing that because I had ripped off some of the emissions equipment. The 195 can help with emissions and fuel economy and helps the engine run correctly IF it's setup like the factory had it.
Good ill just leave the 180 alone. Other than my timing issue I posted about the engine runs great. I think I was going to change the stat last winter so I'd get heat in the can quicker but I think my problem is the loss of coolant or air building up from the loss of coolant, not the stat itself!

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The hard part with the timing cover is the oil pan. I can never get it off without dropping the oil pan down some. Some people say they do it, but it's never worked for me. Your kit should have two little pieces of gasket in it that are for the oil pan.

And carefully check your harmonic balancer where the front seal runs. If it has a groove in it, go back to the store and get a repair sleeve or "speedi sleeve" to fix it.
I watched a pretty good video on YouTube (reference only). I saw exactly what you meant. stupid design if you ask me!

Thanks for the heads up on the groove, with my luck mine most likely has one. Ill grab it anyway. You know if I don't ill need to go back. Damn Murphy and his law.

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Originally Posted by FordFETruck View Post
I never have cared for the OE replacement rubber band chains. I put a Cloyes double roller in mine. Which engine do you have?
302 v8. Edelbrock carb/performer intake. No emissions what so ever. Also have ds2 ignition. thanks for the input ill grab one. Sadly it seems no one stocks even a cheap set so I guess Ill be doing this tomorrow.

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Originally Posted by FordFETruck View Post
Many people use all types of oil, but a lot of us here use 15W40 in Shell Rotella or Mobil Delvac. It's cheapest at your local Walmart. And the thermostat thing, I put a 180* stat in mine and the old was a 195*. The 180 runs a bit better.
Isn't rotella 15/40 a diesel oil? I have plenty around somewhere for my powerstroke before i switched to synthetic and yes I'm familiar with the grand old wal-mart! That's my fav place for expendables especially Diesel Kleen (for my other vehicles) LOL I'm actually in the parking lot now...

Al
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'84 F-150 XLT 4x4 Reg Cab - 302 Gasser (the work beater)
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  #5  
Old 10-09-2013, 06:22 PM
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If you look on the back of all of the 15W40 oil bottles. They will have the diesel rating and then SM as the gasoline rating. Although the diesel oil has far better anti wear properties than regular gas oil, especially for flat tappet cams. If you need a good timing chain. Don't buy the $25 cheapo Cloyes timing chain, I put one of those in my 351W and it was junk. Get a Cloyes true roller double roller timing chain. They have two versions of them, a street true roller for $45 and an "original" true roller (can't hardly tell the difference in them) for $92. Get the $45 one lol.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cl...view/make/ford

that would be the one to get.
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:01 PM
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Give a good look-over on the gasket surfaces by the water passages on the chain cover - block-side. They can erode away as well as the t-stat housing.
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:08 PM
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+1 on diesel 15w40. That is what I run in my high mileage 351W. I run whichever O'reillys has on sale at the moment. Usually Delo though.

And +1 on the Cloyes true double roller.

And Motorcraft FL-1A oil filters are affordable if not cheap. Sure, a little more than parts store stock, but worth it.

And with winter coming, I would run the 195 T-stat.
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Stangrcr1 View Post
+1 on diesel 15w40. That is what I run in my high mileage 351W. I run whichever O'reillys has on sale at the moment. Usually Delo though.

And +1 on the Cloyes true double roller.

And Motorcraft FL-1A oil filters are affordable if not cheap. Sure, a little more than parts store stock, but worth it.

And with winter coming, I would run the 195 T-stat.
Totally concur!
And, having the water pump & timing cover off makes T-stat changes a breeze compared to working behind them for that lower bolt....... Why did Ford feel the need to raise the water pump on the windsor blocks???????
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:37 PM
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As a side note, I cut open all my old used oil filters. The FL-1A is a much better built filter than the Microguard from Oreillys...
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Old 10-13-2013, 10:57 PM
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If anyone cares, FL1A filters are $3.97 per filter at your local Walmart.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:27 AM
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If anyone cares, FL1A filters are $3.97 per filter at your local Walmart.
About the same price as the chain parts stores, without all the wierdos to deal with......
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1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
1974 F100 Ranger XLT 390, C6 3.25 axle. Dad bought it new.
1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
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Old 10-14-2013, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff View Post
About the same price as the chain parts stores, without all the wierdos to deal with......
My Walmart doesn't have very many weirdos lol. Although my local Ogehttos auto parts wants like $5.99 for the same filter.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:28 PM
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My Walmart doesn't have very many weirdos lol. Although my local Ogehttos auto parts wants like $5.99 for the same filter.
Really? WOW, the 3 major chains around here sell the FL1A for $3.95 to the public. Buying them thru the shop, I can save even more...... I buy all my stuff thru the shop account, since even after adding tax, it still is cheaper than normal price before tax.
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1980 F-150 300 I6, C6 & 9" rearend. Cummins 5.9L/ NV4500 5 speed swap in the works
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1983 Mazda RX7 1.1L Rotary.
1984 CRX 35 MPG go kart
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rogue_Wulff View Post
Really? WOW, the 3 major chains around here sell the FL1A for $3.95 to the public. Buying them thru the shop, I can save even more...... I buy all my stuff thru the shop account, since even after adding tax, it still is cheaper than normal price before tax.
Yeah it's a pretty big rip off.
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Old 10-14-2013, 07:41 PM
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