I can still stop, but I've got that horrible grinding when breaking coming from the front left. Going to be turning the rotors if I can and getting new pads, just wondering what everyone suggests for these trucks. I'm running 33s so I want all the stopping power I can get.

 

Get the lifetime warranty pads from advance auto. They're a higher quality pad than the stocks. If it's grinding the rotors are likely going to need to be replaced not just turned.

 

That's what I'm afraid of. Rotors are the expensive part and I can get them turned for free.

 

Have you checked rock auto for the rotors?

 

I didn't even start looking till tonight during dinner. I'll get around to looking harder when I get the wheels off and see what the damage is. I have another vehicle I can drive so it's no rush.

 

I like motorcraft.

ANY "lifetime" pads will be SO HARD, they eat rotors. Rotors are NOT cheap, pads are and are designed to wear

 

I was just wondering if anything out there would have more stopping force than stock. Everyone uses Hawk pads in the Mustang world so I was seeing if anything was worth looking into over stock replacements.

 

You need to find out what the pads you're buying are made of. You'll need rotors too. That "horrible grinding" noise is metal on metal contact. Pads come in three common materials: non asbestos organic (replacing the old asbestos pads), semi-metallic (combination of NAO and some metal shavings) and ceramic. Semi-met will provide the best stopping power and longevity for the price. If you're looking for longevity go ceramic. Unless you're doing heavy towing you won't need anything huge.

 

No matter what pads you go with, especially if they are better performing then stock, flushing the brake system with good new brake fluid is a must. Better brakes won't work if you have old brake fluid that will boil the first time you hit the brakes hard at speed.

 

I thought about that. I replaced some but not all recently when I installed my new rear end.

 

Should I just hit up the local parts store or order online. Wondering where I'll find the best prices.

 

Also need to know if there's a difference between 2wd and 4wd brakes.

 

They don't cover wear, only factory defect, I'm running Advance autos "thermo quiet" pad I also got new sliding pin grease, I use to work for them, there "Silvers" are junk, golds are factory replacements, so I upgraded mine since I plan on running 35s and I tow with my rig almost every weekend.

 

Brake Rotors Brake Discs Drilled Slotted Rotors

 

Personally, I would stay away from drilled rotors if you ever do any heavy towing. Unless the rotors are cast with the holes in them, like the stock ones on high end luxury cars and super cars, then companies drill the holes after the rotors are made which weaken the rotors. I have seen several sets of cross drilled rotors crack and literally fall apart when put under severe braking conditions. That's the last thing you want to have happen when you NEED to stop as fast as possible.

If you want really great brakes, get the highest performance stopping pads you can get, use the orange anti-squeel compound and put that on the back of the pads (this will help insulate some of the heat from going from the pads to the calipers), and then flush the brake system with good, quality brake fluid. Don't just use the el-cheapo stuff that you find on the shelf in the auto parts store. I use Motul 600 RBF. It is expensive but the wet boiling point is raised from 284 degrees to over 500 degrees, and it is not corrosive to the stock rubber hoses.


As far as where to go to find some good performing pads, try TireRack.com. They will show you how well the pads will stop vs. others. You will pay for them, but it is nice to see a good breakdown of how well they will actually perform.