heater hose part number needed
#1
heater hose part number needed
I’m trying to find a replacement heater hose, but need a part number,, as i can not seem to find it.
Its the one that goes from the heater core to just below the coolant reservoir , then has a molded t-splitter with one side going to the engine just fwd of the exhaust manifold and the other end continues to the bottom of the radiator towards the driver side.
any help is appreciated.
Its the one that goes from the heater core to just below the coolant reservoir , then has a molded t-splitter with one side going to the engine just fwd of the exhaust manifold and the other end continues to the bottom of the radiator towards the driver side.
any help is appreciated.
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#8
I've seen brass Ts that would work like the one above. I have this one from Napa on hand but I haven't found one like it in 5/8" on all three ends. Not that there isn't one. I just couldn't find one that was still manufactured and not made of metal.
#9
so, you don't want a metal T? i'd generally prefer metal to plastic in this application, but was cheap when it came to doing my coolant filter install, so used this one:
the picture is wrong, but the T is 5/8" on all sides and pretty robust.
could you also not just cut the ferrule off the existing T and then use hose clamps to hold the new hose on? or is the T whats broken on your setup?
Tefen Nylon 66 Hose Fitting, Tee, Gray, 5/8" Hose ID (Pack of 10): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
the picture is wrong, but the T is 5/8" on all sides and pretty robust.
could you also not just cut the ferrule off the existing T and then use hose clamps to hold the new hose on? or is the T whats broken on your setup?
#10
Hose MOD
I’m trying to find a replacement heater hose, but need a part number,, as i can not seem to find it.
Its the one that goes from the heater core to just below the coolant reservoir , then has a molded t-splitter with one side going to the engine just fwd of the exhaust manifold and the other end continues to the bottom of the radiator towards the driver side.
any help is appreciated.
Its the one that goes from the heater core to just below the coolant reservoir , then has a molded t-splitter with one side going to the engine just fwd of the exhaust manifold and the other end continues to the bottom of the radiator towards the driver side.
any help is appreciated.
Ok lets see I've been through this one before maybe I can help.
That molded Tee is nothing more than a 5/8"x 5/8"x 1/2" brass
barbed reducer tee (may have been steel) w/crimp-on hose ferrule,
those metal sleeves are thin wall crimp-on ferrule holding the
hose in place just like a regular screw clamp would.
So here's what I did.
Use moto-tool cut-off wheel or diagonal wire cutters- Cut through
one side of the ferrule being careful not to cut to deep. You don't
want to go through the hose and get into your tee, you can also use
the wire cutters as well this stuff is very thin.
Just get under it with one side of the wire cutter and push down
splitting the ferrule to the end. Then grab one side of the split ferrule
with needle-nose vise grips and rotate ferrule around needle nose
w/twisting motion (kind of like the old ammo can opener method)
until removed pull off hose.
Then you will see its a brass or steel(can't remember which)
reducer tee hose barb that you can reuse with regular screw
type hose clamps. Repeat for the other two hose sides.
Take your old hoses to Napa and they can match them.
One was a little long and required cutting to the proper length,
otherwise they fit great. If your OEM ferrule crimped reducer tee
has rotted through your only other option would be to use a gates
type heater hose tee 5/8"x 5/8"x5/8" and use the Napa #9807
5/8"-90 degree hose listed below and install a 90 degree MNPT
1/2" to 5/8" fitting in the block to accommodate the 5/8" hose
change from the present 1/2" hose.
I've looked high and low for a automotive type reducer tee in a
5/8" x 5/8" x 1/2" and could never locate one. I did find some in
the irrigation variety but not with the correct temp or chem rating
for our trucks. If anyone knows where to find the correct one please
let me know.
I still have the part numbers from Napa let me go pull my records
and I'll list them.
***OEM CONFIG***
Napa #9801 HEATER HOSE, 90 degree molded from tee to block fitting 1/2" ID .5 use with OEM ferrule barb after
ferrule removal. Cut hose to proper length.
Napa #8859-Hose from Tee to Lower Radiator 1/2" ID .5
NAPA #705-1118 HOSE CLAMP
***OPTION***
NAPA #9807 HEATER HOSE, 90 degree molded from tee to block fitting 5/8 ID .625 change 90 degree block fitting to 5/8" cut hose to proper length.
NAPA #705-1118 HOSE CLAMP
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________________
Napa #8858-Hose Radiator Lower
Napa #705-1123 1-3/4" Hose Clamp
Napa #8825-Hose Radiator Upper
Napa #705-1123 HOSE CLAMP 1-3/4 Hose Clamp
Hope this helps.
#13
Suspect that you probably moved-on since asking 2 months ago. But in case you are still looking, and for the benefit of others...
I ran into the same thing on another vehicle where I needed just the 'T'. Was the same deal where one leg was smaller than the other two. While I found a nylon part that worked, I switched over to a custom brass 'T' setup from discounthydraulichose and added a 1/4 turn ball valve as well.
For the hoses, they look like straight forward enough items to replace indivudally.
Am going to give this 'T' and valve combination a try:
2 x 102-1012C | 5/8" Hose x 3/4" NPTF Male Pipe (Brass) - https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/102-1012C.html
1 x 102-0812C | 1/2" Hose x 3/4" NPTF Male Pipe (Brass) - https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/102-0812C.html
1 x 33750-12-12-12 | 3/4" NPTF Female x 3/4" NPTF Male x 3/4" NPTF Female - https://www.discounthydraulichose.co...-12-12-12.html
1 x 943-203 | 3/4" NPTF Forged Brass Ball Valve - https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/943-203.html
Probably could save 40 - 50% by going with a 1/2" 'T' junction and valve versus the 3/4" (even more by going with nylon parts), but I decided to maintain the larger flow through the straight section.
I ran into the same thing on another vehicle where I needed just the 'T'. Was the same deal where one leg was smaller than the other two. While I found a nylon part that worked, I switched over to a custom brass 'T' setup from discounthydraulichose and added a 1/4 turn ball valve as well.
For the hoses, they look like straight forward enough items to replace indivudally.
Am going to give this 'T' and valve combination a try:
2 x 102-1012C | 5/8" Hose x 3/4" NPTF Male Pipe (Brass) - https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/102-1012C.html
1 x 102-0812C | 1/2" Hose x 3/4" NPTF Male Pipe (Brass) - https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/102-0812C.html
1 x 33750-12-12-12 | 3/4" NPTF Female x 3/4" NPTF Male x 3/4" NPTF Female - https://www.discounthydraulichose.co...-12-12-12.html
1 x 943-203 | 3/4" NPTF Forged Brass Ball Valve - https://www.discounthydraulichose.com/943-203.html
Probably could save 40 - 50% by going with a 1/2" 'T' junction and valve versus the 3/4" (even more by going with nylon parts), but I decided to maintain the larger flow through the straight section.
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