I am looking for some part numbers/availabilty for the heater hose assembly for my 1992 F350 7.3 Turbo Diesel.I need the one that goes from the heater core to the W/P and the one that comes off the heater core and goes to the cyl head and then T s off into the radiator.I was able to get one part number off of Rock Auto.It is E8UZ18472YA,don't know which one it is.I am thinking its the W/P to the heater core. Any help direction would be appreciated .I am looking to tackle this next weekend so would like to have the parts on hand.

 

I don't know what you're getting after, but heater hose can be bought from Napa, Carquest, Autozone, or your favorite auto parts store by the foot...it's universal stuff, nothing specific.
It's standard 5/8" I.D. Heater hose, usually found on a rack with a knife to cut your own length. At least that's how it is in my area.

The hose from the water pump to heater core measured to be around 48" give or take a few inches (had some stuff in the way)
The hose from the heater core to the cylinder head was about 24", again...give or take a few due to stuff in the way.
I say buy 8' and cut them to whatever length you need.
I didn't have any kind of "T" off to the radiator...mine's an '85 6.9 and I just took those measurements for ya. I didn't see, and have never seen, a "T" to the radiator.

I usually buy 20 feet at a time and keep it "in stock".
It's also good for wrapping around fuel lines, battery cables, or other lines that may rub against something and spring a leak.
It's too big for brake lines, but use some 3/8" hose for that.
Cut off whatever length you need, then slit it down the middle, open it up, slide it over the brake line, and you're done.

 

Bud, the T-ee assembly is for slushboxes, you got a T19 so you don't need it.

Ligoomba, you actually don't need the factory assembly, if the steel T-ee section is in good shape just cut the aluminum crimp ends that hold the rubber hoses on it and replace them with regular hose by the foot and worm-drive clamps...

 

Ooohhh, thanks for clarifying! Learn something new everyday. That explains why he was looking for Part Numbers...that hose must look specific. Mine is just plain rubber hose with hose clamps.

 

Yeah, it's a 4-piece assembly, a steel tee with three rubber hoses crimped onto it - one side comes from the engine head or block or whatever, the other side goes to the heater core, and the third one goes down to the bottom radiator tank. The hole in the radiator fitting is tiny tho, like 3/16" or so IIRC, so you basically have a the big hose dead-headed there with just a small bleed-off orifice for coolant to flow through.

 

Ok what I am getting at is the inside of the hose is alot smaller.I replaced them once a long time ago and was told to restrict the hole inside.Someone told me that if this is not done it will pop the heater core .I am changing them because one hit the fan belt and is cut. BUT I will take your guys word for it if you guys use regular 5/8 hose.As for the T thats what I did when I replaced them. I am doing it this next weekend so I need good direction.If it means not buying from the dealer and getting Hosed myself great!!!! I looked on RockAuto and it shows a replacement hose with an inside diameter of .625,this is the only reason I am asking.I posted yesterday and was told to use the OEM hose.

 

5/8" ID and 0.625" ID is the exact same thing, lol. The heater core restriction is not a bad idea, how did you do it? I usually find a flanged hex nut of proper size and drill out the threads smooth then shove the thing into the heater core's inlet (hence why you need a flanged nut, the hex section fits snug inside the tube but the flange keeps it from falling all the way into the core when coolant pressure hits it) and then slip the hose on top of that - works like a charm every time, and no need to alter the hoses to and from the heater core in any ways.

 

I know that .625 is 5/8,LOL My bad I AM REALLY FLUSTERED RIGHT NOW!!LOL !!!! I used brass pipe plugs shoved into the heater core with holes drilled out the same diameter of the originals.I pretty much did it on each end of the hose(where it would go into the bock,radiator).
Athough I have another question I noticed two of them had a small pinhole near where it goes into the heater core and on the heater hose where it goes into the radiator.I changed the block heater a few months ago and it took a bit to get the thermostat to open.The engine did not over heat but the temp gauge went to the middle maybe a bit past due to air in the system,well it finally opened and the truck has runn fine.Would that have caused a head gasket to pop? I just got back from in the garage and noticed that antifreeze is leaking while the truck was running but then just stopped.It came from the heater hose near the radiator and from rear near the block heater,it was dripping but then it stopped, but I could not locate it.I looked at the block heater and it looked dry.The starter had a bit of antifreeze on it.I did a pressure test with the truck warm and it held 13 psi for about three minutes.I am hoping that it was dripping from the heater hoses.This is why I am so bent on having the proper hoses on the truck.Oh and this is weird when I plugged the block heater in it started to doing it.
Thanks any help would be appreciated being I really don't want to do head gaskets on this thing.I may end up paying someone.

 

Are the hoses that have the pinhole leaks? Or is it the core? The heater system of these trucks is so simple you can replace everything for less than $50, so long as radiator ain't leaking. Also, when you change them hoses, remove the brass plug from the outlet pipe of the heater core - the idea of the reducers is to restrict coolant flow into the core, at the same time you want as much flow out the core as possible - that's why you restrict the core's inlet, but leave everything else intact. Actually the best way to accomplish this would be to swap the fitting on the side of the engine with one from a radiator tank (obviously not your own radiator, use a junkyard truck for this) drilled to a suitable size - this way all the pressure is contained into the engine block itself, and both the core and its inlet hose will see reduced flow... Of course that only happens if the the engine fitting is the same size as (or larger than) the radiator one, so we need 3/8" NPT or larger for this to work.

About your coolant leak, I have overheated a 7.3 IDI before to where the red light came on, she suffered no damage tho. The 6.9 head gaskets are more prone to leaks, IIRC the 7.3 ones do not have that problem most of the time.

 

Its the hoses that have pinhole leaks.The one that goes to the radiator and the one that goes from the heater core tot he W/P.Which one is the outlet?Water Pump hose? I think I have bigger fish to fry right now.I am hoping that thats not why the head gasket went,hopefully I am not jumping to conclusions.No leakes yesterday .The truck has sat for two days.I am gonna do another pressure test this weekend with the truck cold and see what happens.

 

The core supply hose is the one that comes out the side of the engine. The return hose is the one that goes into the water pump. Which hose was the one that splits off to feed the radiator, IIRC twas the one that comes out the side of the engine? Either way, you can do just fine without that rad hose, all it does is bring the ATF up to temperature faster - if you have the habit of letting your truck idle for several minutes before you hop in and drive off, that achieves the same effect.

 

After lots of looking around it seems that/I hoping that all the anit-freeze is coming from some pinholes and traveling down the manifold and onto the floor.It stops after the truck warms up.I will not know till I put everything together.I replaced the upper and lower hoses and am about to replace the heater hoses.HAS ANYONE REPLACED THEM ON MY TYPE/YEAR TRUCK AND USED REGULAR BULK HOSE AND NOT THE RESTRICTED TYPE OEM HOSE? The OEM hose is no longer available.I just don't want to blow/overheat anything. Any input would be greatly appreciated I am gonna try and finish after work tomorrow night.Thanks

 

Just replaced a set like this on one of my plow trucks this winter, used bulk 5/8's hose and reused the steel tee that was in the line. That one has an E40D in it. No problem so far.

I've also replaced some (maybe all) of the hose on my dually, also a slushbox (C6), and no issues there either.

 

I recently serviced my cooling system and came across a similar setup as you have described. I have a 1991 F250 with an E4OD. I have a line that comes from my heater core, goes to the passenger-side engine block and then goes to the bottom of my radiator. I have been told this helps warm up the automatic transmission fluid. I did not really need to replace this hose but if I did, I would have used a 3/4" PEX tee and 5/8" heater hose. Get about 12 feet and just cut it to size to fit your application. 6 worm drive clamps later and you are all set. Mine is plastic and machine clamped like your A/C hoses, by the way.

 

I have a dumb ? What does IIRC stand for? I see it thrown around a lot but not sure the meaning... Thanks