I've got a 96 F150 2wd. I believe that I need to replace the I-Beam pivot bushings.

I'd like to replace the radius arm bushings as well. However my radius arm brackets are still original (riveted to the frame).

From what I've read on here, if you don't want to remove the radius arm bracket rivets, you can drop the I-Beam at the pivot point. That will give enough movement to push the radius arm forward and out of the bracket. Is this true? Or will I end up needing to remove the spring and shock as well?

So, I was thinking that I could replace my pivot bushings and the radius arm bushings at the same time.

Also, will I be able to press the pivot bushing out using the ball joint press by just using hand tools? Or does this need an impact?

 

I'm in the middle of putting a lift in. I found it pretty easy so far to just cut the rivets down with a cut off wheel on a dremel. As far as the pivot bushings I used a free rental ball joint kit from Advance. Just press out and press the new one in.

 

If you are replacing the axle arm pivot bushings you will be better served by just removing the shock & spring so that you can get the entire axle arm out to press the old bushing sleeves out & the new ones in. This also allows you to better inspect all parts for damage or fatigue. Plus, access to your radius arm bushings is simplified, too.

dn.

 

Yes... but it will be a pain to get that pivot bushing to go into it's mount squarely with the radius arm bushing still connected.

Just grind off the rivets and replace them with Grade 8 bolts.

 

Hello all, should the bushing and sleeve be pressed all the way in where the bushing sleeve lip is flush against the arm ? Or should it be centered in the pivot arm hole.

 

Here is a link to a fast and easy way to change all the bushings. I did this a couple of years ago and took pictures of the steps with writeup. Mine is 4x4, 2wd would be easier.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...easy-pics.html

 

This is exactly how I replace the I beam axle pivot bushings and the radius arm bushings on these trucks. I always do them both at the same time. I use a threaded rod with nuts and washers etc as a little press to remove the axle pivot bushings.

I use a large floor jack under the coil spring. This allows you to roll the radius arm and I beam forward and backward together as an assembly. I also use a smaller jack to reinstall the axle pivot to raise it back up.

I put large jack stands on the frame to allow the front end to be high enough to drop the suspension far enough down to remove the coil springs. I think that is a 1 1/8 nut on the lower retainer.

For new parts I usually use the Energy Suspension parts for these components, but any new ones should be an improvement.

 

Yes. The new outer sleeve lip is flush against the arm. No different than the old part. I don’t know what you mean by “centered in the pivot arm hole.”

 

Yeah I've seen bushing that weren't seated all the way in. Some were pressed in but the bushing lip was not seated. I just trying to find out which way is correct.

 

I didn't see the need to go through the hassle of changing the metal sleeves that were factory pressed in, and in great shape. The rubber is old and soft enough it drilled right out, and the two wire brushes on the drill cleaned any remaining rubber right off. Saved myself probably 2 -3 hours of work on my back.

The job was much easier than I had feared. Thr radius arm bushings took longer as I had a mix of rivets and factory bolts on each side. I made sure to drill out the odd sized holes to the next size bolt instead of using looser fitting bolts.

I'm older and arthritic, so I look for the easiest and quickest way to do a job, and it still be done right. If I can't do it right, it will have to wait until I have time, unless it's an emergency repair.

Hence. Me doing each set of bushings seperately.. I didn't want to spend too much time rolling around on asphalt in one day.

 

That is exactly what I did on my '91 F150 2WD. I replaced both at the same time without drilling any rivets, and I used a ball joint press to press the old axle pivot bushings out.

 

I agree if they are in good condition. On both the ‘94 Bronco and now on the F-150 the outer shells were pitted and not in the best shape. I removed the front axle assembly on the Bronco to replace them as well as the diff seals while it was out. I am rebuild the pickup so replacing the bushings was a no brainer.

I was taught to remove the spring and then loosen but not remove the upper stud and bottom bolt holding the radius arm to the TTB. That will allow it to swing so you can remove the rear of the arm from the bracket without a fight. There is no need to remove rivets and the bracket.