Just removed the driver's side battery and charged it.
Replaced it and started the truck.
The ABS light now staying on.
Does something have to be reset after removing the
battery or do I have an ABS problem?
Usually it is the rear sensor (on top of the diff housing), and often a wipe clean will often sort it out again. Otherwise, check the wiring for the front two sensors (the wiring can flex/break). All the sensors are cheap and pretty easy to replace.
Adrian | 2005 4x4 Diesel Courier CrewCab in Aus | 2012 4x4 CC/SB F250 6.7 in the US
2000 4x4 SC/LB F350 7.3 ZF-6 (sold)
I think the alarm is the drain. Try manually locking the truck - so DON'T activate the alarm (assuming you've got a secure place to park it) and see if the batteries hold the charge.
If I leave the alarm on on my truck it won't start after 2 weeks without charging one battery.
I'm starting to think that the alarm is more trouble than it's worth.
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Australia: where Mechanics use spanners & Plumbers use wrenches
Have not driven the truck for over a week.
This is the second time since the alarm was
fitted and I never had the problem before.
Battery load tester shows batteries are OK
and I am getting over 14V when the engine
is idleing so the alternator is charging OK.
There is obviously something draining the
batteries while the truck is not being used.
I suspect it is related to the alarm and emailed
the installer last night, no reply yet.
Has anyone else had this problem with
Cyclops P775B alarm/immobiliser?
Not looking forward to the tedium of tracking
down the cause of the drain.
While I agree that it is most likely the alarm - pull the fuse for it, and see if you get the same problem - check the current across the alternator, if the regulator is on the way out, it may still be making 14V, but not much current
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