ip timing expert
#1
ip timing expert
i have a 1990 7.3L N/A and the fuel pump on it has been turned up and recently someone had mentioned to me that it sounded as if my timing were off on the truck. i have not the slightest clue on how to time these pumps or what the engine should sound like. does anyone know any mechanics in missouri that have this know how. i live in Northwest Missouri (Maryville) or st.Louis area depending on the time of year. any help would be appreciated.
#3
a number of guys on here own their own timing adapter, as there are almost no shops who know what they're doing.
for the OP, you should be aware that turning up the fuel as you did, does affect the timing. and trying to dial it in without a meter is just about as accurate as trying to time a gas engine by ear - if you know what you're doing you'll get it within 5 degrees of your target, but thats a huge range of error and not good enough.
all that said, you can buy the timing adapter online. heres the first one i found on google Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools and that looks to be a pretty good price - i think i paid more for mine.
you can also post in your local chapter (bottom of forum list) and ask if anyone near you has one they could let you use.
for the OP, you should be aware that turning up the fuel as you did, does affect the timing. and trying to dial it in without a meter is just about as accurate as trying to time a gas engine by ear - if you know what you're doing you'll get it within 5 degrees of your target, but thats a huge range of error and not good enough.
all that said, you can buy the timing adapter online. heres the first one i found on google Ferret Instruments V765-01 Injector Tester - Fuel System Tools and that looks to be a pretty good price - i think i paid more for mine.
you can also post in your local chapter (bottom of forum list) and ask if anyone near you has one they could let you use.
#4
#5
the timing adapter sends a signal to your timing light, ideally to a timing light that has an electronic advance circuit so you can really dial in on where you're at. ideal is 8* @ 2000 RPM.
for adjusting, the engine MUST be off, you loosen the 3 nuts holding the IP to the gear housing, and rotate the pump. it'll be hard to move cause the steel lines are holding it, so many pumps have a wrench flat on the front of the housing to make it easier. you MUST tighten it down before starting the engine to check timing again.
rotating the pump so its top moves toward the passenger side fender, will advance it
for adjusting, the engine MUST be off, you loosen the 3 nuts holding the IP to the gear housing, and rotate the pump. it'll be hard to move cause the steel lines are holding it, so many pumps have a wrench flat on the front of the housing to make it easier. you MUST tighten it down before starting the engine to check timing again.
rotating the pump so its top moves toward the passenger side fender, will advance it
#6
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#8
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#10
it does need to stay in place unless you replace that injection line with one that originally came without it. it has no effect on the operation of the system, so we usually just leave it there. but removing it would effectively shorten that line, causing a slight change in timing for that one cylinder, which would not be good. so either leave it alone, or find a used line that never had that adapter in it.
#11
Nick,
In order to delete the timing adapter from your #1 cylinder fuel line, you need to find a #1 cylinder line from a van, because just removing it will change the timing of that cylinder as Josh stated. The van uses the #4 cylinder line for timing, so the #1 cylinder line is correct length without the adapter. I have one that I got from another member, that I have yet to put on. It makes timing with the feret a little easier because it gives you a better location to put the piezo (SP?) clamp on within the required 4 inches from the injector. Timing with the feret is pretty simple. Here is a video of the process, along with a video of how to adjust the timing.
Good luck,
Mac.
In order to delete the timing adapter from your #1 cylinder fuel line, you need to find a #1 cylinder line from a van, because just removing it will change the timing of that cylinder as Josh stated. The van uses the #4 cylinder line for timing, so the #1 cylinder line is correct length without the adapter. I have one that I got from another member, that I have yet to put on. It makes timing with the feret a little easier because it gives you a better location to put the piezo (SP?) clamp on within the required 4 inches from the injector. Timing with the feret is pretty simple. Here is a video of the process, along with a video of how to adjust the timing.
Good luck,
Mac.
#14
so the ferret an d good timing light will get it done?
That's it, the videos show everything that's needed.
-Joshua
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