10" lift 2000 v10
#1
10" lift 2000 v10
I just purchased a BDS 10" suspension lift for my 2000 ex with a v10. I was reading about the lift and it said I might have to lengthen drive shafts and drive train vibrations. Can anyone tell me what I exactly have to worry about when I install this lift. I also am having problems finding a dual exhaust set up. Any help would be great thanks. I also have a 06 f350 diesel that i am looking to do some mods on. I love performance but I also haul my 5th wheel with it.
#3
2. need to change gearing in both diffs
3. 2 new driveshafts
4. speedo re-calibration when you get those 40'' tires.
5. sloppy steering (original box won't improve with bigger meats)
6. lower resale value
7. check your local bumper/frame height laws
Just a few ideas to consider before lifting that high .
#4
I've got 8in on my 2000 Ex V10 running 315's which look kinda small but did not want to go any bigger since I do tow a heavy boat around alot. I also went with 4.30 gears from original 3.73 and made a big difference in towing but not much MPG difference on the highway cruising except it does not hunt for gears on the highway and pretty much will stay locked in O/D except for really big hills.
I did have to deal with some serious driveline vibrations and eventually ended up getting a new driveshaft built with double cardon joints which helped tremendously.
Steering has always been an issue and still have some drift in it, but not too bad and with new components up front most of that is gone. I do have the Banks kit w/headers on the truck and usually get around 12-13 on the road, 7-8 towing and about 10mpg average around town. Use to get better mileage when i could get some real gas in it and will get better mileage on the road when running super but with price of gas that doesn't happen often!
I did have to deal with some serious driveline vibrations and eventually ended up getting a new driveshaft built with double cardon joints which helped tremendously.
Steering has always been an issue and still have some drift in it, but not too bad and with new components up front most of that is gone. I do have the Banks kit w/headers on the truck and usually get around 12-13 on the road, 7-8 towing and about 10mpg average around town. Use to get better mileage when i could get some real gas in it and will get better mileage on the road when running super but with price of gas that doesn't happen often!
#5
1. worse miles/gal
2. need to change gearing in both diffs
3. 2 new driveshafts
4. speedo re-calibration when you get those 40'' tires.
5. sloppy steering (original box won't improve with bigger meats)
6. lower resale value
7. check your local bumper/frame height laws
Just a few ideas to consider before lifting that high .
2. need to change gearing in both diffs
3. 2 new driveshafts
4. speedo re-calibration when you get those 40'' tires.
5. sloppy steering (original box won't improve with bigger meats)
6. lower resale value
7. check your local bumper/frame height laws
Just a few ideas to consider before lifting that high .
#6
Hey Stang,
I think what everyone is trying to say is welcome, and we are glad you have a place where you can ask questions without being second guessed...
You already have your ten inch lift so I will trust that you have given this a lot of thought, meaning at this point you are looking for some guidance from those here who have an exceptionally tall lift. My lift is half yours so I can only imagine what all you will have to do, but I re-geared and added a limited slip diff with my 35s. Take pictures and keep us posted.
And how about a little help for a new member looking for assistance who may be a lotto winner?
I think what everyone is trying to say is welcome, and we are glad you have a place where you can ask questions without being second guessed...
You already have your ten inch lift so I will trust that you have given this a lot of thought, meaning at this point you are looking for some guidance from those here who have an exceptionally tall lift. My lift is half yours so I can only imagine what all you will have to do, but I re-geared and added a limited slip diff with my 35s. Take pictures and keep us posted.
And how about a little help for a new member looking for assistance who may be a lotto winner?
#7
I just took a quick look, and it doesn't say anything a out brake likes on the site.
You will need longer brake lines along with possible e brake cables. Longer driveshafts and shocks. For driveshafts a local shop should be able to lengthen the shafts you have. (Weld in a new tube). I wouldn't think you need ladder bars being most of the rear lift is spring.
That's a lot of lift for any vehicle, I'd just like to say, it will handle WAY different than a stock rig.
You will need longer brake lines along with possible e brake cables. Longer driveshafts and shocks. For driveshafts a local shop should be able to lengthen the shafts you have. (Weld in a new tube). I wouldn't think you need ladder bars being most of the rear lift is spring.
That's a lot of lift for any vehicle, I'd just like to say, it will handle WAY different than a stock rig.
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#10
I'm a pretty good guesser! You should pm dubbs.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=315333
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/member.php?u=315333
#11
#12
#13
Yes, you will have to lengthen your driveshafts. I run 8 and that seems to be the extent of what the front will take without lengthening. I, too, have the BDS kit. The springs are a little stiff, but I tow a 38' TT. I have had to do front hubs, but I abuse mine in the dunes during the summer. Did ball joints at 135K no problems at 167K. I would say re-gear if you can afford it now or find a set of Dana 60's already re geared. I'm guessing if you run mud you are probably already thinking about lockers so you might just try to find 2 axles already set up the way you want them. I run 35X14.5's and don't have problems with sloppy steering. Just my opinions...
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