May be several things going on here but really need some help. I have replaced with new; alternator, battery, ignition coil, starter solenoid. Replaced both cables and cleaned off all connections for better ground. It seems to be drawing power from somewhere because the battery has to be jumped now. It starts right up when you connect the jumper cables; My son and I let it run for about thirty minutes then took it for a spin around the block. We pulled it in the garage turned it off and then tried to start again. It sounded like a real low battery, why is it not charging the battery after it runs? Could the voltage regulator be bad?

 

bingo. If it has the old 3.1/2 square box one then i'd say yes. You should have had your alternator tested before you bought a new replacement.. Time to invest in a volt meter too..orich

 

Got a digital multi tester just too dumb to read it..what should I set it on to test the regulator and how many volts should it be reading when running

 

Hmm set it on 20volts or the next best thing as 10 volts may not work. PUT ON batt check volts then start vehicle it should be 13.2-13.8 for standard charging system. If the points in the regulator are sticking closed it will pull the battery down over night or parked for a few hours. A dash lite or ga may show discharge once key has been turned off. If Battery is not charging the points are not closing mostly..Gee it's been over 35 yrs since I needed to check a regulator and don't want to mislead you, you may cook the meter.. But if you have have auto parts store near by maybe they will do it for you.. Changes are if you have the old type it's bad.. orich

 

Ok. I actually replaced the battery and alternator when we brought it home last year. I figured that would be an easy thing a Father and son could do together. Never had any issues until recently. I will check the volts tomorrow...

 

If you find that you are charging while driving. Here is the next trick.

Unhook you NEGATIVE battery cable from the battery(with truck turned off). Hook your voltmeter(set it to VDC) between the battery and the cable and see if you read any voltage. You shouldn't(unless you have a new fancy radio with clock/memory). Nothing else should put a draw on the battery once truck is turned off.

If you get voltage reading with truck off(and you don't have fancy radio), then it could mean the voltage regulator is stuck ON. Simply unplug it and see if reading goes away.

 

And to add to the above!
And also make sure the doors are close or it will show a volts pull if you have a cab light..
orich

 

I got the new voltage regulator and decided to get plug wires as well. When I looked up the firing order it is not at all what I have on the truck now. Is the firing order the same for a 360, 390? I might just have another engine even though I was told it was the original 360. I can go ahead and hook up the way it was but it was backfiring a litte. I just thought I might need to time, but now maybe the plug wires are all mixed up? I really dont understand the firing order but using the diagram for a 360 dist cap my #1 goes to drivers side first slot(nearest fan) #5 goes to pass side cylinder nearest cab, #4 goes to pass side 2nd cylinder from fan, #2 goes to 2nd cylinder drivers side(from fan), #6 goes to third cylinder from fan on pass side, #3 goes to third cylinder drivers side from fan, #7 goes to fourth cylinder drivers side, and #8 goes to first cylinder pass side. What is this? sorry for my ignorance

 

Ok, done a little looking. I will try and make more sense with this

starting with the #1 stamped on my dist cap and going counter clockwise it looks like my firing order is as follows. 5-4-2-6-3-7-8-1. could it be possible that the wires are one slot off at the dist?

 

open this link..orich
http://c.fixya.net/fixya20/uploads/I...mited_1177.jpg

 

Those factory diagrams are fine, as long as someone along the line didn't screw with it(and many times they have).

If there is any doubt, you need to determine where your #1 is at the cap.

Pull #1 plug out, bump engine over with key, slowly, just tap the key each time. Put your finger over the spark plug hole and feel for a BIG woosh of air. STOP. Look closely at your balancer and timing marks. The pointer should be right about at the TDC mark(or very close to it) Bump it very lightly til pointer is at the TDC mark. Remove cap and see where rotor is pointing. This is #1(maybe the cap is correct), but this will confirm it. Then follow the diagram to install the wires.

NOTE: next time only remove ONE wire at a time. This way you don't have to worry about loosing your place. Kinda like when doing brakes, only tear one side apart as you can always look at the other side if you forget how something goes together.