The reason for the gap between the engine and transmission was
because the pump drive on the torque was not engaged in the transmission pump
Forcing it together even slightly with the bolts has jammed the torque converter against the pump
The torque has to be installed in the transmission before the engine
and pump engagement verified.
You can loosen the torque to flex plate nuts as mentioned
above to confirm this.

 

Is there a way to get set up right it together without taking the engine out again?
Do I have damaged the beams or something? I have startet the engine up for about 15 min.

 

I would pull the transmission not the engine way less work.
You should get yourself a repair manual Haynes or Mithchell for this truck,$30 bucks well spent.
You need to understand the procedures involved to avoid problems like this.
Good luck and please keep us posted

It is possible there is damage,you won't know until you get it out
You can see the pump when the seal is out and the drive on the torque

 

But do you think I have damaged the beams or something? I have startet the engine up for about 15 min.

thanks for helping me!!

 

Read the edit in my last post.
You're welcome,like I said keep us posted
Everyone here is here to try and help out

 

Hello again.
Finally I got it back on the wheel.
oilpump had been destroyed, but I got the rep.
There was verry mutch splinters in gearbox, cleaned as best I could, new filter and oil and flush it out.
IT running and sounds fine, but it engages a little strange. It is as if it engages in 2 steps.
When I put it in gear it does not begin dragging before I give it a little gas, so does rmp. goes a littel up, then suddenly starts to drag a bit, and ½ sec. later it drag on as always.
cut it be air in the TC or what is the reason for this? it must just run a little maybe?
I'm going to run 2-300 mil and then make a flush and new filter and oil again, for getting the last dirt out.

 

Glad you got it back together
I am not sure what to tell you,there is no way to clean the torque converter with out cutting it apart.
Even the cooler will be contaminated by now and should be replaced or a least flushed out.
There is not much you can do but see what happens after flushing it out again.
Unless you totally disassemble the transmission to clean it and replace the converter and cooler you are probably going to have problems.

Let us know how you make out.

 

Just curious, did the transmission give you any more problems?
Hope all went well wit it

 

excuse my late reply.
I still have some problems.
when I put it in D and is started, it will start in the second gear and smash it into the first gear with wheel spin and then run. And when I let the speed roll down the rpm jumps up and down, it jump in gear and out of gear all the time.
If I put it in 1. then 2. then Drive, no problems.
I think it may be an electronic fault. Perhaps TRS or I have pinched a wire when lifted gearbox?

 

Make sure the transmission fluid is full, if it is you prob have internal transmission damage. I would pull the trans out and have it torn down. The torque converter must be fully engaged into the transmission before putting in the engine. It has to spline with 2 shafts and the pump.

 

Trough converter is engange in oil pump. and have fine oil pressure, it's not the problem.
The problem is if I have made a full stop, give gas to run when the green light on, it starts in 2 gear, soon after smash it down in 1 gear, and then run it.

 

I know but when the converter got shoved into the pump it prob damaged more than just the pump. If the fluid is full then there is other damage beyond the pump and the trans needs to be torn down to find the damage.

 

Damn .... Could it be because there is put a too thick plastic wahser in behind the pump?
Can not remember part.no.

 

Those plastic washers are color coded-different color = different thickness. If you put the same color washer back in then it is right.