Somehow I think I may of missed this post and did not see it until now that I search for this post to add more info.

I will reply with a you are prob. right. I already have however ( along with many other people on this forum ) a great deal of time and interest in trying to make my plan come together.

I do like a challenge and I find it interesting so I will continue the way I am going for now. Parts for 80-86 still plentiful. ( just dont expect to find any gauges in the Hillsborough county area any time soon until the salvage yards are able to re-stock ) These earlier units not so much unless you want to take a lickin from e-bay so hopefully I can make this work and other guys will have the same option if they choose.

I received my new sending unit today and placing it along side my 52 sending unit they appear almost identical

The top where it bolts to the tank are nearly the same size diam
With the major difference that I can see being the one less screw and the screws on the new unit are placed further inboard. I do not yet know if they are too far in-board.

I have not yet tried placing this on my tank. I do not want to screw up this new unit but out of curiosity has anyone ever tried removing these tops. I am wondering if it is possible to switch them. Seems plausible to me but I like to hear experiences.

It appears to me that the only thing holding this top onto the sending unit body is the nut on the top that has that little bit of yellowish clear glue.

I am not concerned about how to remove and make the 52 top work, if I can get this new top off the new unit without destroying the sending unit I can make everything else happen.

One other thing, new unit comes with a plastic float, not crazy about that. I do not like plastic in alot of instances. Would I be better of with my original brass float instead as long as it is leak free?

Thanks again

 

Try the gasket to check fit. I do not recommend disassembly of reproduction.

 

I did not think of this at the time but good idea.

I went out now that the sun is up and placed new sending unit in tank, the predrilled holes in sending unit are just a tad too far in-board and so there would be a leak ( holes slightly exposed ) of fuel even unless I were to find a way to plug these holes.

If that were the case than I do believe there is enough meat on the top of the sending unit to just make new holes in the proper location.

Something else to consider as well. I will wait for more ideas and responses before I make a move.

I feel confident that I can switch the tops and think that may be the nicest way to do this and have it look like it hasnt been jimmyrigged by someone which is not what I want.

 

The following will not fit, is smaller in diameter than the sending unit used 1940 thru 1955: D7TZ-9275-G (replaced C1TZ-9275-K) .. In-Cab Fuel Tank Sending Unit / Obsolete

1961/77 F100/350 and etc. 1956 sending unit (reproduced) is the same diameter as 1940/55, but is 12V.

 

Not clear on what you are trying to tell me

Is there a sending unit being reproduced that is 12 volt that is a bolt on fit for my 52 fuel tank and do you have a part number for that and have knowledge of who is re-producing it?

I have a feeling that if this is the case than I may be back with the initial problem of the Ohms being not a match for the mid eighties gauges that I plan to use but maybe I am incorrect. Thanks

 

Let me simplify this a bit. I was able to put a '57-'60 fuel sending unit into my '56 in-cab tank with extremely minor modification. The screw holes line up exactly, just a little material had to be shaved off one edge of the sender's base to clear the pinch weld of the tank. It was very minor at best. The '57-'60 fuel sender is for a 6 volt gauge. SO- if a '56 sender (although 12 volt) will fit into your tank, then a '57-'60 sender (6 volt) will be your ticket.The '57-'60 fuel sending units are currently reproduced and are available just about anywhere. Dennis Carpenter, Macs, etc... and possibly your local parts store.


And for those wondering and have followed my build... no I am NOT using a '57-'60 sender, it was merely for experimental reasons. I am using a reman '56 12 volt sender in my truck now.

 

Thanks, I need to make work what I now have

 

Hello,
I haven't been around for a while but I need some help! 1956 F100 12vdc stock fuel gauge and sending unit. Problem, always reads full, I know that's nice but impractical! I took the sending unit out of the tank and it reads 6 Ohms empty and 73 Full which I've found is well within the bounds of what it's supposed to be. I have two gauges and they both read full all the time. Hot 12vdc is on the E side of the gauge and the sending unti goes to the F side. I have taken both the gauge and the sending unit directly toa 12vdc source and still full. It actually reads Full when the float is down and pegged over full when the float is up. Both gauges read the same and the gauges have 12vdc painted on the bottom leading me to believe they are 12vdc gauges. So, my headache!
I've searched for this for hours and now I'm asking for help as I haven't found anthing avout this problem, lots of info on the resistance values etc.
Thanks in advance for any help. I should say I also grabbed an unkown valued resitor and put it in line withe the ground to sending unit and got 1/4 to 3/4 on the gauge when actuated. HELP!

 

ke6jcf,

56 was one of the first years of 12V Gauges. Seems like your gauge could be slightly out of calibration. If your gagues are anything like what I have on my first generation F series, there likely is a small hole on the rear with some gear like teeth. Take a small jewlers screw driver and cautiously adjust to calibrate.

In the future, it is good forum edicate to start a new topic with your specific question, instead of tagging on to someones existing thread (known as hijacking).

 

I suspect that the sending unit may not right for that gauge, or, somebody may have mis-adjusted it in its past. The resistor in series tells me that it's working. Just not right.

Adjusting gauges is easy but erroneous adjustment seems to be just as easy. Here's what I learned:
The guage should be adjusted to read either left or right when no power is applied. For a fuel gauge, it should read "E."
Check your manual for the proper test voltage. On our '55, the mid-scale is 1.5V and, thus, full-scale is 3V. Two D cells are all that I needed to test and correct the adjustments of Albatross' gauges.. Well, that, some wire jumpers, and three hands or a Radio Shaft battery holder.. Anyway, apply said voltage (D cell batteries work great for this) and the needle should swing slowly and gracefully to mid-scale. Applying twice this voltage should cause a full-scale reading. Ever-so-gently tweak the geared portions of the mounts to cause the needle to read correctly.

So, does the gauge jump? Does it go from 1/4 tank to E in one swell foop? Relax. There is a fix for that. I'll need to create pictures next time I have my gauges open, but, here goes:
The needle itself is held by two knuckles that look sort of like a capital letter "C." The "vertical" lines on each of those two capital Cs need to be effectively parallel when the gauge is in its at-rest position. So, with no power applied, first set the Cs vertical lines to be parallel and then adjust from there to get the scale to read correctly as per the manual. Please note that this coarse adjustment is not required if the needle's movement is smooth. I have had to figure out how to do this because somebody grossly mis-adjusted Albatross' fuel gauge some many years back.
I hope that this helps.
Jeremy

 

bmoran4, absolutely correct about the hijack, thought I was starting a new thread, my deepest appologies. Neither gauge I have has a hole in the back to adjust. Regarding the sending unit being incorrect the resisatance values are correct 10 - 74 Ohms. I'll start a new thread and see what comes up. Thanks for your input and correcting me!
Doug

 

Besides the one in my head I found the holes in back of the gauge, adjusted and it works great. Thanks guys and again sorry about the hijack!
Doug