Engine removal pics
#62
And that, my friend is a perfect view of what the bellhousing bolt pattern looks like on a manual transmission equipped 6.0L or 6.4L engine. For folks not in the know, you will remember that the bolt pattern on the automatic versions look very similar to the pattern used on Ford's 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L engine family. I believe the current new 5.0L and 6.2L engines use the same pattern as well. Interesting to note too, these engines also use yet another completely different engine cover for F-650 and Navistar 4200 truck applications which use the Allison automatic or Spicer manual transmissions.
Does the flywheel spin a quarter turn independently of crank? If so, your truck came originally equipped with the garbage dual mass flywheel that will require the longer replacement flywheel bolts.
As far as how to remove the flywheel bolts, the only way to remove them is to use a 1/2" impact gun with either the 5/8" of 16mm size six point socket. MAKE SURE you have an assistant holding the flywheel securely as you remove the last bolt. You do not want that flywheel falling on your feet!!!
I'm very interested as well to see the "casualty".
The clutch plate looks amazing for 582k.
Here's the other side
Freakin crazy. This is the top view. It's uniform all the way around too. Sure hope the south bend holds up like this one.
Same with the pressure plate. Smooth.
Flywheel. Should I even replace all this. Lol. I'm just kiddin
So now I'm hung up gettin the flywheel bolts off. They're on there. 5/8 and 16mm both fit. Which should I use? 6point obviously.
Kinda excited to get the odd side head off.
Here's the other side
Freakin crazy. This is the top view. It's uniform all the way around too. Sure hope the south bend holds up like this one.
Same with the pressure plate. Smooth.
Flywheel. Should I even replace all this. Lol. I'm just kiddin
So now I'm hung up gettin the flywheel bolts off. They're on there. 5/8 and 16mm both fit. Which should I use? 6point obviously.
Kinda excited to get the odd side head off.
As far as how to remove the flywheel bolts, the only way to remove them is to use a 1/2" impact gun with either the 5/8" of 16mm size six point socket. MAKE SURE you have an assistant holding the flywheel securely as you remove the last bolt. You do not want that flywheel falling on your feet!!!
I'm very interested as well to see the "casualty".
#63
Those lobes on the cam look perfectly normal to me. Just by virtue of the fact that this engine made it thus far without issue makes me all the more reluctant and wondering why you would want to tear into a perfectly good running engine to do all this work to begin with.
#65
#66
#67
The first picture looks like a 3/8" drive impact driver. You put a socket on the end of if, hold it squarely against the stubborn fastener and tap the end with a hammer. Success is achieved if the fastener breaks loose.
The second picture looks like an electric 1/2" drive impact gun. Sadly, I don't think either tool will be strong enough to break the flywheel bolts loose.
The last time I was ever into a manual transmission equipped truck, I vaguely recall needing to struggle a bit with my impact gun, and it's a top of the line Snap-On gun with the highest torque rating.
The second picture looks like an electric 1/2" drive impact gun. Sadly, I don't think either tool will be strong enough to break the flywheel bolts loose.
The last time I was ever into a manual transmission equipped truck, I vaguely recall needing to struggle a bit with my impact gun, and it's a top of the line Snap-On gun with the highest torque rating.
#69
And the reason highlighted in bold red, is exactly the reason why one should NEVER EVER work under any vehicle being supported only by a hydraulic jack. USE JACK STANDS!!! By the way, if it bleeds down there is definitely a leak in the hydraulic cylinder of the jack.
#70
The truck is on the wheels. But I got ya there. No kiddin. It's a cheap jack. But it worked for what I needed it for. I might call harbor freight n see about getting it replaced after the job is done. If I have time, I'd like to get it swapped out before then but the adjustments on the plate are set up for reinstalling the trans. It would suk to get it swapped and the new one is worse and me not know it. Btw blade, where are you located? I can't remember who all is around kc. You could use mine if your close enough. It doesn't bleed fast enough to notice while working, who knows, maybe I didn't have the bleeder screw tightened.
#71
#72
I find that you would think that they make impact sockets with out
that bevel so you could get a full contact with the nut,bolt each time.
Grr short blots and beveled sockets = time to modify. On the flywheel...
Warm it up a little bit with a heat gun around where it connects
with the crank and then use you pry tool one on each side (180)
apart and have some thing on the floor for it to land on (other than
your foot). Do the cover bolts hole go all the way through the flywheel?
If they do you could use some long ones to push the flywheel out evenly
from the block. Put some flat steel behind so you don't mar the back cover.
The problem with the 3 jaw puller is the push shaft will have to go into the
pilot bearing hole.
Sean
that bevel so you could get a full contact with the nut,bolt each time.
Grr short blots and beveled sockets = time to modify. On the flywheel...
Warm it up a little bit with a heat gun around where it connects
with the crank and then use you pry tool one on each side (180)
apart and have some thing on the floor for it to land on (other than
your foot). Do the cover bolts hole go all the way through the flywheel?
If they do you could use some long ones to push the flywheel out evenly
from the block. Put some flat steel behind so you don't mar the back cover.
The problem with the 3 jaw puller is the push shaft will have to go into the
pilot bearing hole.
Sean
#74
Thx guys, well I've got news. Good??????bad?????? I dunno. Get 2 that n a min. Here's my progress
Here's the flywheel
I used a long flathead, it's red, u can kinda see it. It worked great,,,,thx guys
Just another pic
The tranny came out through the engine bay. That's funny, but better than jacking the truck way up. Plus I didn't have to pick it up. With it on the trans jack, it was about 1 1/2 feet above the truck. I would've had to jack the truck way up. Heck with that.
Got it.
I took the trans n trans case to a zf dealer called inland truck parts here locally to have it resealed. Couple seals actually. The output on the trans, the input on the trans case, and figured I'd let them do the shifter boot n seal also. This is the number on the input seal on the trans case. Pointless pic prob, but oh well.
Here's my setup. What's missing here. That's my old engine.
Best place to park that big ole thing
Reference pic for even side valve cover bolts. Most prob don't need it, but maybe someone might,,, someday.
Odd side
Ok check it out,,, this is looking in from the exhaust manifold. Cylinder 1
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 5
Cylinder 7
I have never been able to reuse glow plug harnesses. Well not until now. This worked great. Just tapped lightly.
Got em both. That's almost a hundred dollar bill.
Question. Does any reman injectors have black plastic to corrall the wires? 1 n 7 have black plastic and the white wires are now yellow. I don't remember ever changing them. They might have 582k on em.
Ok. Here's the news. Keep in mind, it has been squeaking, chirping, for a long time. Keep in mind about the miles I have on it. I'm freaking a bit. I'm sure most of you will know what this means so I'm gonna post it. But remember what I do for a living, and the chirping, which I'm convinced its a lifter needle bearing (c'mon mchan, please don't drill me too bad about this pic). After I just posted on here on another thread talking about "if it ain't broke". I now see the symptoms. There was oil leaking from pass side manifold to up pipe flange. Residue on #3 output manifold. Contribution balance was showing low on #3. Remember the chirping. I'm dragging this post on and on,,,, I know. I thought the lifter on the exhaust side,,,,,,,,well hell, I dunno what I was thinking. I think I wanted to put an engine in it while its still warm outside. I'm flustered. Here it is.,!?,.?!!,,?!!,.
I'm debating on putting the engine back in.
It's been 35k since I've put that inj in. No copper washer!!!!!!! Oh. My. God. This might be one of those threads that's referred to as "he's a dumbazz". I hope not. But. I know I should pull the head and make sure it's ok, what's a head gasket? $100.
Just please remember guys, I haul campers for a living, and have had a chirp for about, well, I don't know how long. If I was to break down far from home, it could be thousands just to get it home. Ok, I'm hitting the submit reply button,,,,,, I don't want to,,,, everyone's gonna know I screwed up. Pulled an engine, trans,,,,,,, for a copper washer. What should I do?????
Here's the flywheel
I used a long flathead, it's red, u can kinda see it. It worked great,,,,thx guys
Just another pic
The tranny came out through the engine bay. That's funny, but better than jacking the truck way up. Plus I didn't have to pick it up. With it on the trans jack, it was about 1 1/2 feet above the truck. I would've had to jack the truck way up. Heck with that.
Got it.
I took the trans n trans case to a zf dealer called inland truck parts here locally to have it resealed. Couple seals actually. The output on the trans, the input on the trans case, and figured I'd let them do the shifter boot n seal also. This is the number on the input seal on the trans case. Pointless pic prob, but oh well.
Here's my setup. What's missing here. That's my old engine.
Best place to park that big ole thing
Reference pic for even side valve cover bolts. Most prob don't need it, but maybe someone might,,, someday.
Odd side
Ok check it out,,, this is looking in from the exhaust manifold. Cylinder 1
Cylinder 3
Cylinder 5
Cylinder 7
I have never been able to reuse glow plug harnesses. Well not until now. This worked great. Just tapped lightly.
Got em both. That's almost a hundred dollar bill.
Question. Does any reman injectors have black plastic to corrall the wires? 1 n 7 have black plastic and the white wires are now yellow. I don't remember ever changing them. They might have 582k on em.
Ok. Here's the news. Keep in mind, it has been squeaking, chirping, for a long time. Keep in mind about the miles I have on it. I'm freaking a bit. I'm sure most of you will know what this means so I'm gonna post it. But remember what I do for a living, and the chirping, which I'm convinced its a lifter needle bearing (c'mon mchan, please don't drill me too bad about this pic). After I just posted on here on another thread talking about "if it ain't broke". I now see the symptoms. There was oil leaking from pass side manifold to up pipe flange. Residue on #3 output manifold. Contribution balance was showing low on #3. Remember the chirping. I'm dragging this post on and on,,,, I know. I thought the lifter on the exhaust side,,,,,,,,well hell, I dunno what I was thinking. I think I wanted to put an engine in it while its still warm outside. I'm flustered. Here it is.,!?,.?!!,,?!!,.
I'm debating on putting the engine back in.
It's been 35k since I've put that inj in. No copper washer!!!!!!! Oh. My. God. This might be one of those threads that's referred to as "he's a dumbazz". I hope not. But. I know I should pull the head and make sure it's ok, what's a head gasket? $100.
Just please remember guys, I haul campers for a living, and have had a chirp for about, well, I don't know how long. If I was to break down far from home, it could be thousands just to get it home. Ok, I'm hitting the submit reply button,,,,,, I don't want to,,,, everyone's gonna know I screwed up. Pulled an engine, trans,,,,,,, for a copper washer. What should I do?????
#75