6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Engine removal pics

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #61  
Old 10-08-2012, 10:51 AM
strokin83's Avatar
strokin83
strokin83 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Bucyrus, KS
Posts: 437
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I have a dewalt 18vt cordless impact. I'd could run that over to ya today if you want. I think its 300ft lbs maybe.
 
  #62  
Old 10-08-2012, 10:52 AM
m-chan68's Avatar
m-chan68
m-chan68 is offline
Lead Driver

Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Posts: 5,488
Received 229 Likes on 165 Posts
Originally Posted by run6.0run
Here's my clutch.

And that, my friend is a perfect view of what the bellhousing bolt pattern looks like on a manual transmission equipped 6.0L or 6.4L engine. For folks not in the know, you will remember that the bolt pattern on the automatic versions look very similar to the pattern used on Ford's 4.6L, 5.4L and 6.8L engine family. I believe the current new 5.0L and 6.2L engines use the same pattern as well. Interesting to note too, these engines also use yet another completely different engine cover for F-650 and Navistar 4200 truck applications which use the Allison automatic or Spicer manual transmissions.

Originally Posted by run6.0run
The clutch plate looks amazing for 582k.


Here's the other side


Freakin crazy. This is the top view. It's uniform all the way around too. Sure hope the south bend holds up like this one.


Same with the pressure plate. Smooth.


Flywheel. Should I even replace all this. Lol. I'm just kiddin


So now I'm hung up gettin the flywheel bolts off. They're on there. 5/8 and 16mm both fit. Which should I use? 6point obviously.
Kinda excited to get the odd side head off.
Does the flywheel spin a quarter turn independently of crank? If so, your truck came originally equipped with the garbage dual mass flywheel that will require the longer replacement flywheel bolts.

As far as how to remove the flywheel bolts, the only way to remove them is to use a 1/2" impact gun with either the 5/8" of 16mm size six point socket. MAKE SURE you have an assistant holding the flywheel securely as you remove the last bolt. You do not want that flywheel falling on your feet!!!

Originally Posted by run6.0run
This is the even side. See how dry it is.


The odd side is soaked with oil.
I'm very interested as well to see the "casualty".
 
  #63  
Old 10-08-2012, 10:56 AM
m-chan68's Avatar
m-chan68
m-chan68 is offline
Lead Driver

Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Posts: 5,488
Received 229 Likes on 165 Posts
Originally Posted by run6.0run
See those rings. Is that normal? It feels smooth.
Those lobes on the cam look perfectly normal to me. Just by virtue of the fact that this engine made it thus far without issue makes me all the more reluctant and wondering why you would want to tear into a perfectly good running engine to do all this work to begin with.
 
  #64  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:09 AM
BLADE35's Avatar
BLADE35
BLADE35 is online now
Hotshot
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Saratoga Springs,UT
Posts: 18,722
Received 74 Likes on 53 Posts
Anthony I have to pull a Trans Next week how did the Harbot freight jack work????

and how much was it???
 
  #65  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:37 AM
run6.0run's Avatar
run6.0run
run6.0run is offline
Postmaster
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
I found this at the pawn shop. Might help. Might tear something up. Not sure what its called, but it ratchets when pushed in.


Either that or this, I hope the flywheel bolts give up.
 
  #66  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:49 AM
run6.0run's Avatar
run6.0run
run6.0run is offline
Postmaster
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
The jack was 179. Worked great. If you can see in the pic, it balanced even without the strap. It has brackets that will help stabilize the trans. It is an awesome investment
 
  #67  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:50 AM
m-chan68's Avatar
m-chan68
m-chan68 is offline
Lead Driver

Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Posts: 5,488
Received 229 Likes on 165 Posts
The first picture looks like a 3/8" drive impact driver. You put a socket on the end of if, hold it squarely against the stubborn fastener and tap the end with a hammer. Success is achieved if the fastener breaks loose.

The second picture looks like an electric 1/2" drive impact gun. Sadly, I don't think either tool will be strong enough to break the flywheel bolts loose.

The last time I was ever into a manual transmission equipped truck, I vaguely recall needing to struggle a bit with my impact gun, and it's a top of the line Snap-On gun with the highest torque rating.
 
  #68  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:51 AM
run6.0run's Avatar
run6.0run
run6.0run is offline
Postmaster
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Oh btw, don't leave it overnight holding something that needs to stay up. Mine bleeded down. Luckily I still had the crossmember in.
 
  #69  
Old 10-08-2012, 11:56 AM
m-chan68's Avatar
m-chan68
m-chan68 is offline
Lead Driver

Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Posts: 5,488
Received 229 Likes on 165 Posts
Originally Posted by run6.0run
Oh btw, don't leave it overnight holding something that needs to stay up. Mine bleeded down. Luckily I still had the crossmember in.
And the reason highlighted in bold red, is exactly the reason why one should NEVER EVER work under any vehicle being supported only by a hydraulic jack. USE JACK STANDS!!! By the way, if it bleeds down there is definitely a leak in the hydraulic cylinder of the jack.
 
  #70  
Old 10-08-2012, 12:21 PM
run6.0run's Avatar
run6.0run
run6.0run is offline
Postmaster
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
The truck is on the wheels. But I got ya there. No kiddin. It's a cheap jack. But it worked for what I needed it for. I might call harbor freight n see about getting it replaced after the job is done. If I have time, I'd like to get it swapped out before then but the adjustments on the plate are set up for reinstalling the trans. It would suk to get it swapped and the new one is worse and me not know it. Btw blade, where are you located? I can't remember who all is around kc. You could use mine if your close enough. It doesn't bleed fast enough to notice while working, who knows, maybe I didn't have the bleeder screw tightened.
 
  #71  
Old 10-08-2012, 01:50 PM
run6.0run's Avatar
run6.0run
run6.0run is offline
Postmaster
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Got the bolts out. Here is a pic of the socket before


Here is after I grinded the lip off of it


They came out,,, no sweat.




Ok, Now the flywheel is being stubborn, with no bolts in it. 3 jaw puller? Or is there a tool for this also. I'm doing a search after this.
 
  #72  
Old 10-08-2012, 03:05 PM
Yahiko's Avatar
Yahiko
Yahiko is offline
FTE Chapter Leader
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Spanaway
Posts: 27,307
Received 542 Likes on 396 Posts
I find that you would think that they make impact sockets with out
that bevel so you could get a full contact with the nut,bolt each time.
Grr short blots and beveled sockets = time to modify. On the flywheel...
Warm it up a little bit with a heat gun around where it connects
with the crank and then use you pry tool one on each side (180)
apart and have some thing on the floor for it to land on (other than
your foot). Do the cover bolts hole go all the way through the flywheel?
If they do you could use some long ones to push the flywheel out evenly
from the block. Put some flat steel behind so you don't mar the back cover.
The problem with the 3 jaw puller is the push shaft will have to go into the
pilot bearing hole.

Sean
 
  #73  
Old 10-08-2012, 03:10 PM
m-chan68's Avatar
m-chan68
m-chan68 is offline
Lead Driver

Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Woodbridge, Ontario, CA
Posts: 5,488
Received 229 Likes on 165 Posts
Re-install two of the ten flywheel bolts a couple threads in. Using a long prybar, pry each side of it evenly until it breaks loose. Once loose, carefully remove the two bolts while you and an assistant carefully remove the flywheel.
 
  #74  
Old 10-08-2012, 10:29 PM
run6.0run's Avatar
run6.0run
run6.0run is offline
Postmaster
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Thx guys, well I've got news. Good??????bad?????? I dunno. Get 2 that n a min. Here's my progress

Here's the flywheel


I used a long flathead, it's red, u can kinda see it. It worked great,,,,thx guys


Just another pic


The tranny came out through the engine bay. That's funny, but better than jacking the truck way up. Plus I didn't have to pick it up. With it on the trans jack, it was about 1 1/2 feet above the truck. I would've had to jack the truck way up. Heck with that.


Got it.


I took the trans n trans case to a zf dealer called inland truck parts here locally to have it resealed. Couple seals actually. The output on the trans, the input on the trans case, and figured I'd let them do the shifter boot n seal also. This is the number on the input seal on the trans case. Pointless pic prob, but oh well.


Here's my setup. What's missing here. That's my old engine.


Best place to park that big ole thing


Reference pic for even side valve cover bolts. Most prob don't need it, but maybe someone might,,, someday.


Odd side


Ok check it out,,, this is looking in from the exhaust manifold. Cylinder 1


Cylinder 3


Cylinder 5


Cylinder 7


I have never been able to reuse glow plug harnesses. Well not until now. This worked great. Just tapped lightly.


Got em both. That's almost a hundred dollar bill.


Question. Does any reman injectors have black plastic to corrall the wires? 1 n 7 have black plastic and the white wires are now yellow. I don't remember ever changing them. They might have 582k on em.






Ok. Here's the news. Keep in mind, it has been squeaking, chirping, for a long time. Keep in mind about the miles I have on it. I'm freaking a bit. I'm sure most of you will know what this means so I'm gonna post it. But remember what I do for a living, and the chirping, which I'm convinced its a lifter needle bearing (c'mon mchan, please don't drill me too bad about this pic). After I just posted on here on another thread talking about "if it ain't broke". I now see the symptoms. There was oil leaking from pass side manifold to up pipe flange. Residue on #3 output manifold. Contribution balance was showing low on #3. Remember the chirping. I'm dragging this post on and on,,,, I know. I thought the lifter on the exhaust side,,,,,,,,well hell, I dunno what I was thinking. I think I wanted to put an engine in it while its still warm outside. I'm flustered. Here it is.,!?,.?!!,,?!!,.






















I'm debating on putting the engine back in.

It's been 35k since I've put that inj in. No copper washer!!!!!!! Oh. My. God. This might be one of those threads that's referred to as "he's a dumbazz". I hope not. But. I know I should pull the head and make sure it's ok, what's a head gasket? $100.

Just please remember guys, I haul campers for a living, and have had a chirp for about, well, I don't know how long. If I was to break down far from home, it could be thousands just to get it home. Ok, I'm hitting the submit reply button,,,,,, I don't want to,,,, everyone's gonna know I screwed up. Pulled an engine, trans,,,,,,, for a copper washer. What should I do?????
 
  #75  
Old 10-08-2012, 10:41 PM
texastech_diesel's Avatar
texastech_diesel
texastech_diesel is offline
Token Redneck

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Breckenridge, TX
Posts: 9,089
Received 89 Likes on 48 Posts
If you put this one back in.... for the love of God put in new lifters so we can stop wondering when you'll find needle bearings in the oil No dumbazz judgement here, maybe this rebuild will take you over a million now. Ounce of prevention, pound of cure, all that jazz.
 


Quick Reply: Engine removal pics



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 10:14 PM.