'97 460 SD-EFI + D0VE heads?

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  #16  
Old 09-19-2012, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
Transmission programming can be changed with the QuarterHorse and Binary Editor. The stock transmission strategies are just TPS vs Road Speed.
You better not forget line pressure if you want your transmission to keep on working.
Those would all work, but the 97 transmission has a diode in the ECU instead of in the solenoid pack like a 94 has (or perhaps it's the other way around)

The OP will need a quarterhorse or a tweecer to do all the reprogramming required. If he can manage that, then why not just get a Quarterhorse and a sailorbob or pops racing def file for his ALT0 and tune speed density. As long as there isn't a wild cam that ruins the relationship between manifold pressure and torque, then it can be tuned just fine.

ALT0 is a catch code, not a strategy.
 
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:27 PM
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That is true, he may need to add protection diodes - not a big deal however. As far as line pressure goes, you'll want to adjust the dynamic TV pressures. Not the static - the stock pressures have more than enough holding power. It's the dynamic TV shift pressures that directly control shift firmness. For what it's worth, the stock 302 shift pressures were just fine on a 460. With a worked over motor, you'll of course want to increase them.

As far as I know, no one has a definition readily available for the ALT0. You'd need to have one the guys make one for you, which takes quite a bit of time and money. Why bother wasting your time with a little supported batch-fire speed density setup when the AHACB strategy series EEC-IVs are quite well supported, easy/cheap to acquire and give you MAF and SEFI which make for easier upgrades in the future.

$100 EEC + $40 Slot MAF + 1 Day of Wiring seems like a no-brainer to me.
 
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Old 09-20-2012, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
As far as line pressure goes, you'll want to adjust the dynamic TV pressures. Not the static - the stock pressures have more than enough holding power.
People may well have got away with this, but these ECUs calculate torque to set the static line pressure. So while the tables can be adjusted, if you don't, you'll end up with the static line pressure for a 5.0, not a 7.5.

Originally Posted by Lead Head
As far as I know, no one has a definition readily available for the ALT0.
The BE web site has a def file for an ALT0 right now.
 
  #19  
Old 09-20-2012, 10:38 AM
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Originally Posted by mjp_t98
People may well have got away with this, but these ECUs calculate torque to set the static line pressure. So while the tables can be adjusted, if you don't, you'll end up with the static line pressure for a 5.0, not a 7.5.
Torque calculations are done based on displacement, air flow into the engine and RPM. As long as you put your engine parameters in, it'll calculate the torque.

My friend has put thousands of miles on his '96 Turbo 460 that has a 170,000 mile E4OD without ever touching the static line pressure tables - it still shifts great, even under full boost.

The BE web site has a def file for an ALT0 right now.
What strategy is it? I'm not seeing it on there.
 
  #20  
Old 09-20-2012, 11:13 AM
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Scrap the dove idea, new plan?

I should redefine my ambitions since I am keeping my stock heads and intake/exhaust.

My intentions were never to make a drag truck. I would however, like to get my horsepower up to that 350-400 range along with increasing my torque to the high 400 range.

I also need to make this truck as reliable as a daily driver(including some days of -20 degrees in the Minnesota winter). I do have and use my block heater by the way. I need it for pulling, blasting through snow/mud, occasional long trips, and do greater than or equal to my current 12.5 avg. mpg.

Starting with the block and pistons - Reduce deck height? Switch to early 90's pistons? (Compression increase in mind smart or not?)

Cam - I can't go too wild if I keep my speed density system, and also if I want to increase my torque enough... Whatever it would take to get to my desired hp & torque.

Cam duration and timing? - I have little knowledge in this area, so I suppose I just need a good recommendation for my applications listed above.

F3TE heads & intake - I'm assuming that they need to be opened up to increase the horsepower, but I need to know how to do this without killing my torque.

Exhaust - I like my banks powerpack without any emissions equipment hooked up. I want to keep this setup.

Emissions stuff - I removed my air pump, cat and egr. The EGR eliminator did not work for me, but I don't mind the CEL. Should i bother reinstalling any of this? I don't have to worry about smog testing.

EEC-IV - I want to switch to MAF & SEFI. I know I need the EEC-IV, MAF sensor(plugs in the same harness as MAP sensor?), and a SEFI wiring harness.
Originally Posted by Lead Head
$100 EEC + $40 Slot MAF + 1 Day of Wiring seems like a no-brainer to me.
Are you saying I can make the harness myself?

Recommendation on a single intake throttle body?

What is the "BE" web site?
 
  #21  
Old 09-20-2012, 12:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
Torque calculations are done based on displacement, air flow into the engine and RPM.
You are incorrect. In the ECUs you mention, Torque is calculated based on RPM, LOAD, LAMBDA and timing. The tables those parameters feed into have quite different values between the 7.5 and the 5.0.

Originally Posted by Lead Head
What strategy is it? I'm not seeing it on there.
They call it LHBL2.
 
  #22  
Old 09-20-2012, 12:52 PM
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Are you saying I can make the harness myself?

Recommendation on a single intake throttle body?

What is the "BE" web site?
If you can follow a wiring diagram, be patient and take your time, you can do the wiring modifications yourself. It requires the addition of 6 injector wires, and 2 MAF wires, as well as moving some other pins around. The only things you need are the MAF plug, a spare ECU connector to get pins from, and a bunch of wire.

Just keep your dual TB setup and make a 2>1 intake. It'll be much easier.

Originally Posted by mjp_t98
You are incorrect. In the ECUs you mention, Torque is calculated based on RPM, LOAD, LAMBDA and timing. The tables those parameters feed into have quite different values between the 7.5 and the 5.0.
I will admit that I didn't figure in lambda and timing, but how am I wrong? Load is derived from air-flow and displacement. Load is how "full" the cylinders are, or volumetric efficiency.

We can argue about how static TV pressure is calculated all day, but I have actual experience with a 302 EEC running a 460. With a turbocharged 460 running 7 PSI of boost the shifts are firm, consistent, with no signs of slipping at all. This engine is making close to 550 lb-ft of torque if not more. If you look at the official Ford factory service manual for the E4OD, they list one set of acceptable line pressures for every engine. From the 4.9L to the 7.3 PSD - the acceptable static line pressures are the same.

Just looking at the size of the ALT0 strategy file tells me that there is little/no documentation in it - which will make tuning for a beginner much, much harder. So once again, since he wants to convert to MAF anyways, why should he waste time with a poorly documented unsupported strategy/ECU?
 
  #23  
Old 09-20-2012, 02:51 PM
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I have a K&N filter with the dual intake coupler, as well as the banks ram air intake that I never installed which is also a dual intake system. Can I get away with making a 2 into 1 into two system?

Your'e saying the pins can be re-used? I know it could be a gamble but would a junkyard harness from a MAF/E4OD f150/bronco work?

I wouldn't have any idea on how or where to install the diode for the transmission either.
 
  #24  
Old 09-20-2012, 04:58 PM
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I'd start by making a thread in the main 92-96 F-series forum, lots of knowledgeable guys there. You're over complicating the MAF thing, you just need a Y pipe to adapt the dual pipes into a ~3.5"-4" pipe, and you can throw a cone filter or similar on the other end of the MAF.

You could try a harness swap, but there's a good chance many of the wires will not line up correctly on the 460. It's easier to just add the pins you need to the connector. There's a couple of guides on sites like oldfuelinjection.com on how to take apart EEC-IV connectors and add/change pins.
 
  #25  
Old 09-21-2012, 07:23 PM
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Thanks everyone for all the input.

With harvest going on now through october I will be too busy to tackle this project now.

Hopefully my machinist can come up with a good combination of head and intake porting along with the proper cam, and CC size. I will start a thread in the other forum once I have time to properly prepare for this project.

For now i'll just keep adding oil to the beast and hope it lasts until november. I might check out my local junkyard for a MAF EEC, because the owner has hundreds of 9th generation fords so I may have some luck. Otherwise ebay should suffice.

Would the MAF sensor for a 302 work? Not sure what size they are, but not sure what size I need either.
 
  #26  
Old 09-22-2012, 12:19 AM
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No, it would be barely adequate for a stock 460 let a lone a worked over one. Either get a generic $40 Ford slot MAF and put it in a 3 - 3.5" pipe or get a 90mm Lightning MAF.
 
  #27  
Old 09-24-2012, 12:12 PM
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Ian, since you proved you are better than me at shopping for parts online, where do I find a $40 slot MAF? Are all MAF meters a two wire setup?

Is the 92-96 forum the best place to find wiring instructions for the injector wires and MAF? Or elsewhere?
 
  #28  
Old 09-24-2012, 12:21 PM
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It's a 6 wire MAF, but you only use 4 of the wires. +12v, GND, Signal Ground, MAF Signal.

On E-Bay, just type in Ford Slot MAF. Another choice would be to simply get a 90mm Lightning MAF, they're pretty cheap and great for N/A trucks.

I'm saying go ask a question in the 92-96 Forum because there are quite a few people in there that have done MAF swaps and many others with good advice what to do. Not too many people come by the 460 section here.
 
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