egr code
#1
egr code
my truck keeps throwing code 332; insufficient egr flow detected. what can i do about this? my cel light comes on and off throughout the day. all the original emissions equipment are there. the truck seems to be running okay, sometimes it has a hard time starting when it sits for a while but i think thats a totally different issue.
#2
my truck keeps throwing code 332; insufficient egr flow detected. what can i do about this? my cel light comes on and off throughout the day. all the original emissions equipment are there. the truck seems to be running okay, sometimes it has a hard time starting when it sits for a while but i think thats a totally different issue.
Click here:https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...st-module.html
It may be the "fix" you're searching for.
Bob
#3
There is no way for your Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to measure EGR flow. Your truck uses an EGR valve position sensor (EVP). Code 332 indicates the PCM never saw the EGR open. Check the vacuum lines running to the EGR valve. The vacuum supply comes from the intake manifold. The EGR Valve Regulator (EVR) modulates the vacuum going to the EGR valve.
It is also advised to verify the EVP sensor output is correct as well.
It is also advised to verify the EVP sensor output is correct as well.
#4
my truck keeps throwing code 332; insufficient egr flow detected. what can i do about this? my cel light comes on and off throughout the day. all the original emissions equipment are there. the truck seems to be running okay, sometimes it has a hard time starting when it sits for a while but i think thats a totally different issue.
I had this after I out on my headers (shorty) and just ignored the check engine light as I knew that is what the problem was. Eventually I re-wired the check engine light to turn on and off with the ABS light so I didn't have a visual fail on a smog test (for the smog test the light needs to come on to indicate it's working and then turn off to indicate no codes).
I recently got an EGR eliminator. I've heard that half of the people that use those will have a check engine light come on...I am not one of those.
#5
There is no way for your Powertrain Control Module (PCM) to measure EGR flow. Your truck uses an EGR valve position sensor (EVP). Code 332 indicates the PCM never saw the EGR open. Check the vacuum lines running to the EGR valve. The vacuum supply comes from the intake manifold. The EGR Valve Regulator (EVR) modulates the vacuum going to the EGR valve.
It is also advised to verify the EVP sensor output is correct as well.
It is also advised to verify the EVP sensor output is correct as well.
That's why I said,"It may be the "fix" you're searching for."
Bob
#6
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#8
Before we get all hopped up on a bad ECM, how about we doing basic diagnostics and trouble shooting. We don't have any weird bizarre running conditions - we have a single simple code.
The light going on and off means that sometimes the EGR valve is able to open, and other times it is not. One thing with the speed-density trucks like yours, is that small vacuum leaks are often unnoticeable and the computer will compensate.
There are three major components to the EGR system:
-EVR: The EGR valve regulator. It's a variable vacuum solenoid
-EGR Valve itself
-EGR Posistion Sensor
What you can (sort of) rule out so far is a control-side electrical issue, as you'd probably get an EVR code. What I'd start with is some basic vacuum checks. You can rest a hand held vacuum tester from AutoZone. It'll cost you $55, but you'll get all your money back as soon as you return the tool. It's part number 27010 or AZ1030
Hook the tester's hose up to the EGR valve and start the engine. Slowly start pumping up the vacuum. The engine should run worse and worse the more you vacuum you apply, and with maximum vacuum the engine should stall or hardly run at all. The valve should hold pressure, if the pressure leaks down quickly than the diaphragm in the valve is ruptured and the valve needs to be replaced. Alternatively you can just suck on the hose going to the EGR valve, but it will be more difficult to identify a ruptured diaphragm.
Next find the feed to the EVR solenoid, and trace it back to the engine. When you find the hose at the engine take it off and hook it to the pump. Apply full vacuum and watch the gauge for movement. If it starts to loose vacuum rapidly, than either the hose has a leak, or the EVR has failed.
If you have a multimeter, you can also test the EGR position sensor using that same tool.
The light going on and off means that sometimes the EGR valve is able to open, and other times it is not. One thing with the speed-density trucks like yours, is that small vacuum leaks are often unnoticeable and the computer will compensate.
There are three major components to the EGR system:
-EVR: The EGR valve regulator. It's a variable vacuum solenoid
-EGR Valve itself
-EGR Posistion Sensor
What you can (sort of) rule out so far is a control-side electrical issue, as you'd probably get an EVR code. What I'd start with is some basic vacuum checks. You can rest a hand held vacuum tester from AutoZone. It'll cost you $55, but you'll get all your money back as soon as you return the tool. It's part number 27010 or AZ1030
Hook the tester's hose up to the EGR valve and start the engine. Slowly start pumping up the vacuum. The engine should run worse and worse the more you vacuum you apply, and with maximum vacuum the engine should stall or hardly run at all. The valve should hold pressure, if the pressure leaks down quickly than the diaphragm in the valve is ruptured and the valve needs to be replaced. Alternatively you can just suck on the hose going to the EGR valve, but it will be more difficult to identify a ruptured diaphragm.
Next find the feed to the EVR solenoid, and trace it back to the engine. When you find the hose at the engine take it off and hook it to the pump. Apply full vacuum and watch the gauge for movement. If it starts to loose vacuum rapidly, than either the hose has a leak, or the EVR has failed.
If you have a multimeter, you can also test the EGR position sensor using that same tool.
#9
#10
The light going on and off means that sometimes the EGR valve is able to open, and other times it is not.
Hook the tester's hose up to the EGR valve and start the engine. Slowly start pumping up the vacuum. The engine should run worse and worse the more you vacuum you apply, and with maximum vacuum the engine should stall or hardly run at all. The valve should hold pressure, if the pressure leaks down quickly than the diaphragm in the valve is ruptured and the valve needs to be replaced.
Hook the tester's hose up to the EGR valve and start the engine. Slowly start pumping up the vacuum. The engine should run worse and worse the more you vacuum you apply, and with maximum vacuum the engine should stall or hardly run at all. The valve should hold pressure, if the pressure leaks down quickly than the diaphragm in the valve is ruptured and the valve needs to be replaced.
Not "closing properly" would cause a vacuum leak.....hence the EGR restrictor mod the OP mentioned.
Bob
#11
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