The alternator in the 65 is beginning to sound like the bearing is starting to go. One of the issues w/ headlights on the 65 is they are very weak. I have read the information in the 'articles/spec's' forum on 'whiter-brighter' headlights but thought perhaps a better, if not easier option would be to upgrade the stock alternator with I that puts out more amps? I replaced the alternator harness with a reproduction a few yrs. ago, it's made of heavy gage wire and still in good condition. Any suggestions, recommendations appreciated!

 

If you study the brighter lights article, the problem is not the alternator but the wiring, that's why they use relays for a shorter path to the headlights.

 

Not that knowledgeable when it comes to modifying existing automotive electrical circuits. In looking at the 'brighter light' article it appears there's an addtional 35' of wire, fuse boxes, relays, etc. required and since I am likely going to replace the alternator in the near future another option would be swapping a stock alternator for 1 with a higher output. So, if I understand correctly, going from a stock alternator to one that puts out more ampherage will not solve the issue of dim headlights? Appreciate the information!!

 

The standard alternator should handle normal load such as headlights. The only time you need a bigger alt is when you have additional circuits such as hi powered radio,fog lights,cab lights,add on ac,etc.

 

Some of the latest alternators do have more output at lower rpms. But they are made for modern vehicles with electric cooling fans, air conditioning, power everything, multiple computer systems, etc. Your older truck should not need this extra power, but if you want to try and retro fit a later model alternator to your truck, you can do it. I would personally get a off-the-shelf model that you could get from any parts store if it went bad, I would not get a aftermarket custom unit.

But there are some things you can do to help your lighting with what you have.

1. If your idle speed is extremely low, bumping it up a little bit can make a big difference.

2. They type of lights you are running will make a difference. The modern Halogen type lights are much brighter than the older style lights.

3. The bright light relay mod can make a difference. Instead of the headlight power leaving the battery, running all the way into the cab to the headlight switch, and then going all the way back out to the headlights through the dimmer switch, the power runs directly from the battery, through a fuse, and relay, and then to the headlights, and this is all just a short distance under the hood.

 

Unfortunately the headlight are dim no matter what speed I am traveling; I was hoping there was a quick fix and appears, when time permits, I will go with wiring in the fuse blocks and relays. Thanks to all for the information, greatly appreciated!!.

 

While modern lights are brighter, Ford did not make vehicles with inadequate headlights back then. If you are comparing them and want to upgrade them to match the newer lights thats fine, but if you really can't see where you are going, I would turn them on and see if you can measure the voltage at the bulb(pull the plug out a little bit so you can put your meter on it and still have the bulb working). You should have something close to 12v at the bulb.

 

Think it has more to do wIth age setting in and these dark mountain roads it would be nice if the headlights ran a littel brighter. Currently getting around it by driving on high beam, does not seem to bother on-coming traffic, I will check the voltage at the headlight but it's same with both 65's. Thanks for the info!!

 

The newer cars and trucks put out 14 plus volts, older voltage regulator (VR) had more like 13 volts... and were mechanical and adjustable. High voltage is the key for having bright head lights. You might get the most gain for the buck with a newer VR if you still have the original one.

Compare the battery voltage at cruse RPM... to what you see accross the head lights. If you are getting a voltage loss some where the headlights will be dimmer.

A 1 volt drop is a large change in lumens.

10.5V : 510 lumens
11.0V : 597 lumens
11.5V : 695 lumens
12.0V : 803 lumens
12.5V : 923 lumens
12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage
13.0V : 1054 lumens
13.5V : 1198 lumens
14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage
14.5V : 1528 lumens

Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply

A 100 amp ALT will only put out 10 amps, if that is all the system is drawing. You will gain nothing with a higher AMP ALT.
Jim

 

Dave F., merlynr; and Jim, thanks for the great 'how to ' article, after taking the time to thoroughly read the info it really does not seem like it's going to be that difficult and the components required for the upgrade are not that big, 1"X1 1/2 relays won't take up much space. Again, thanks to all!!.

 

i have a 200 amp 3g series alt with the 6g conversion plug its about 3 months old i will sell it for $225

 

Google 3G alternators and you will find several articles on converting one into an older Ford. Or just one wire it and put in a volt meter, forget the useless Ford amp gauge. The nice thing about them is they make good voltage at idle, whether you need the 100+ amps of output or not.