I am having a problem finding an alternator for my '94 F-150. I would like to upgrade to a high output, but I seem to be stuck w/ what I have. It has gone through 3 of them in the last 2 years.

I have installed a high powered sound system which I think is too much for it.

Engine is a 4.9L inline six. The alternator is a 65 amp with two wire connections.

What are my options?

 

You're stock alternator is Motorcraft #E8PZ10346CRM1, a 65A Alternator

ACDELCO Part # 3211778 is an 80A alternator
ACDELCO Part # 3211303 is a 130A alternator

BOSCH Part # AL7503X is a 130A alternator (2G style)
BOSCH Part # AL7549X is a 130A alternator (3G style)

http://www.rockauto.com has them in stock too, for example.

 

go to the electrical section and do a search for the 3G alternator upgrade
130+ amps and its stock ford parts

 

You will want to find a 3G alternator from a Taurus or some such. 130Amps and only small modificatios are required to the mounting bracketry. Check out Fredericks reply. If you go to the electrical forum they have all of the required information there to do the upgrade. How many watts are you pumping and do you have an in line capacitator to help with the power load management for your sound system? How many Farads is your capacitiator?

Cheers!

Mike

 

Summit Racing sell a 200 amp 1G alternator, I plan on buying this very soon. http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...er=1&part=PWM%

 

Shouldn't a 94 have a 3G from the factory?

 

Oh, my bad. I mistakenly thought he had the same year as me.

 

What do you mean by 2G and 3G?

The amps are putting out around 1300 watts total (2 amps) I do not have any caps. I didn't think I needed them. I was hoping a HO alternator and a yellow top Optima battery would be enough.

 

The 2 and 3G are the generations of Ford alternators. If it has an external fan, I believe it is a 2G, and if not, it should be a 3G. Someone else verify that and correct me if it's wrong.

 

Depending upon voltage of your system (12 - 14.4 Volts) Your system is using between 108 - 90 AMPS! That's at full volume/peak loading (1300 Watts). Assuming you're listening to your radio at full blast all the time, hmmm, there might be a small problem there...

2G is the the second generation Ford alternator, has the external fan.
3G is the the third generation Ford alternator, has internal fan.

A capacitor might help solve some current drop issues during brief moments of the audio system peak power requirements, for only a time period and that depends on the size of the capacitor, overall, this will not be a substitute if you're constantly cranking on the audio system.

No a '94 does not necessarily have to have a 3G from the factory, my 94/4.9L/E4OD only had a 2G! That got swapped with the 351W which had a 3G.

I would strongly suggest getting the highest output alternator you can get. I would say a minimum of 155 amps (65 + 90).
Keep in mind that most alternators do not put out their peak current at idle.
Also when upgrading the alternators, do not forget the wiring from the battery/solenoid post that connects with the high output alternator, that as well should be upgraded to handle the extra amps (watts if you will because the voltage will also vary, but lets not get technical).
An opitma battery and capacitor(s) might also be a good idea to help smooth over things during current peaking.

 

Wow, 1300 watts is a jolt of kick *** power! I am going to be upgrading my sound system over the next couple of months with a 3 amp set up and a crossover network. I have used a similar framework in past vehicles with good sounding results. The reason that I asked about capacitators in your set up is that I will be installing a 1.5 Farad in my new creation. They do help smooth out the big power drops over very demanding, high volume passages of music. The trick is to make sure that your vehicle is running when you 1st juice up a cap. or it will drain your battery right to the ground trying to charge itself up. The others above have addressed your questions about the "g" designations on the alternators. I really think that you will be OK with a 130amp 3G.

Cheers!

Mike

 

Make sure you trickle charge your cap unless it has a charging circuit built in. Otherwise it can spark alot and I have allways heard rumors of them blowing up but I cannot confirm or deny that.

 

mr_malina wrote [Make sure you trickle charge your cap unless it has a charging circuit built in. Otherwise it can spark alot and I have allways heard rumors of them blowing up but I cannot confirm or deny that]

Thank you for the timely advice - an excellent suggestion as I have seen more than my share of "sparks" and am less thrilled with them each time. Lemme tell ya about the time that I came within one fusible link of igniting my brides car!

Cheers!

Mike

 

The method I usually use is get a small lightbulb and socket from the local auto parts store. Connect the ground you plan on using to the - side of the cap. Connect one wire from the light to the + side of the cap. Connect the other wire from the light to your live power wire you plan to use. The lightbulb will light up, depending on cap size and lightbulb size charge times will vary. When the light goes out your cap is charged.

 

The 2g's are okay but they die quickly if you work them hard. The 3g's are great! They have the same mounting configurations. Just go to a junkyard and look through their alternators with yours in your hand. The 2g's have the external fan. The 3g's have an internal fan, lots of cooling holes and they run cooler and put out more juice for a longer lifetime. Even when a 3g stops working, you usually just have to get the new brushes for $30 and you have a great alternator again. These are great alternators. They are pricey in parts stores but they're common and readily available in junkyards for between $30-$60. They were actually too good. Ford stopped making them because they lasted too long and nobody was needing alternators for a few years there. The newer alternators don't hold a candle to the 3g's.