This post is mainly for general purpose info and Goggle to find. Given the issues I have had with these Ford Dart iron heads which could have been avoided if the information presented by Dart was accurate and complete.

These particular small block heads say they are for 289/302 engines what they are really for is 302 engines in Fox body cars and maybe trucks. These heads are not for engines in Mustangs or Cougars of the earlier years. Many look for heads for these cars but there are issues.

The first issue you can surmount, if you know what to look for, is the fact that the heads are designed for the 80's accessories. Earlier cars use smaller bolts for the accessories and you need to downsize. Problem is many don't know what they are called making it hard to locate. The term is Thermactor plugs to get down 9/16" size. Power steering pumps use a 3/8" bolt for the most part so one needs to fabricate a 9/16" stud that is 7 1/2" long. After that drill out all the holes through the bracket for the next larger size. Now you can mount the pump.

Second issue is a major one. No problem if you use the stock exhaust manifolds but if headers watch out. The heads may have both bolt patterns but Dart picked a bad place to put the spark plug holes. On a standard header, for a Mustang or Cougar, you will find the flange obstructing a portion of the spark plug hole. In short you can't put your plugs in even by hand. You will need to remove your headers are grind off enough of the flange in order to use a socket for the AP26 plugs. Just got back from my speed shop where we discussed headers. I was told straight out that there is no header that would work on my car, with those heads, that didn't require some work to fit. What fits my car doesn't work on the heads and vice versa.

Initially it was though that rebuilding the stock heads at almost $1000 didn't make much sense given what is out there. Well now I am not so sure about that. I'm pretty sure if I pick up another pony car, from that era, I will stick with the stock heads with maybe larger valves, rather than going aftermarket.

Forgot the third issue. That is the fact that the holes, as drilled in the heads, for the intake bolts do not line up. The bolt holes, on two sides, are about 1/16-1/8" closer than the stock heads. Therefore the Edlebrock intake, which fit the stock heads fine, needed one bank of bolt holes enlarged for the bolts to grab the heads. Doabale but another pain in the kester. Clearly not ready to go out of the box as per Dart.

 

What vintage are these heads? I suspect they're older since my pair don't have the dual bolt pattern header bolts.

 

No, these Dart heads were manufactured in May this year.

 

Interesting. Are they big valve heads or something more intermediate sized? Mine have 2.02/1.60 valve with 62cc chambers and are a few years old now.

 

Next size down with the intakes at 1.90" and the 58 cc chamber. Remember if you are talking about your 5.0HO that is a different era from my 68 J code 302.

 

The accessory drive issue is usually remedied with bushings. Most head makers have them listed on there site or even send them in the box with the heads.

 

Not Dart. Had to call them up and spend 15 minutes on hold before I got someone from customer service. The guy was nice enough but while he knew what was needed he couldn't think of the name. My local speed shop knew immediately though.

 

Interesting read. Thanks for posting thistbm3fan, as I now know I dodged a bullet a few years ago when I was shopping for heads. The Dart Iron Eagle heads were near the top of the list but I went with Thumper E7 heads instead. And now I am REALLY glad I did!

http://www.hunterstyle.com/thumper/

I wanted a simple bolt-on head with better low-end performance and torque and that is exactly what I got. I even used the Edelbrock Performer intake and Thorley headers (engine specs are in my profile) and there was absolutely no modification needed at all.

 

Update:

Was finally able to get the car up and running. I had to disconnect the headers on the driver's side to put the plugs in. On the passenger side I could actually remove the headers out the top. This enabled me to grind away enough metal on the flanges to put the plugs in. Bottom line 4 easy in and out while 4 need the headers disconnected at this time.

Next issue was the tube for #5 had a sharp turn which caused the spark plug boot to hit it. Obtained a good header wrap and cut out two 18" pieces to wrap around pipes #5 and 6 at the flange. Also bought a high temp silicon boot to put on #5. In my back pocket had an Accel 45 degree ceramic boot. Passenger side had no clearance issues.

With that done the car was ready to run with the new cam in. After prepping the carb the cars started faster than instantaneous. After running the car for 20 minutes, the cam was pre-broken in, I saw a good size oil leak coming off the transmission cooling lines passenger side.

Checked the torque and it was fine. Put a new gasket on and no change. As I removed a second time I heard a small noise as though something was moving. Turned out the valve cover was loose and the bolts had bottomed out before the cover was snug. Driver's side was fine. Off to find bolts 1/16" shorter and that did the trick.

Clearly one better know what they are getting into when using these heads on an 65 through 70's Ford small block. Really more for the 302 found in the Fox body. Obviously I could have done all this within the first month I first posted. Yet after all those set backs I needed to step back from July-March before I really lost my temper.

I have to say the heads run very nice. I have had this car it's entire life and I am amazed at how incredibly fast the car starts when you hit the key. Still the stock starter and I don't even get a chance to hear it turn.

As for Cam Research I am withholding judgement at this time. The cam is not as good as I would have hoped from them. The old Crane may have been lumpy, which was controlled with initial advance, but it was great past 2500 rpm. Carb is a 1.08 4100 which I had to re-jet from 51 down to 49. Running rich at 51 to my surprise. Secondaries working fine. Have a 1.12 4100 on the shelf to check out next.

The exhaust was also finally finished with the old one, from 1975, now out. Used 2.25" pipe and Hooker Maxflows with factory style turn downs in the correct location. The car runs smooth and runs quiet both boulevard and highway. Stomp the gas and the mufflers really wake up.