Oil cooler R&R Do I Have to Do the head Gaskets?
#1
Oil cooler R&R Do I Have to Do the head Gaskets?
My ECT & EOT delta is starting to get to the 15*/20* range when towing 5k on flat ground.
I know that I have to R&R the oil cooler, I'll do a EGR delete at the same time.
Do I really need to go further and replace the head gaskets and put in the ARP studs?
I know a lot of people will say that you're that far into it replace the HGs and stud it.
Problem is it's an Excursion and I don't have a lift at my house to remove the body. I'm not going to do the heads unless the body is off.
Bone stock engine, Except gauges EGT, Boost, Trans temp
I've had a coolant filter since about 10k miles
Only have 53k miles now.
I probably will not ever add a tuner
I'll be changing the exhaust system to a 4"
Let me hear some opinions
I know that I have to R&R the oil cooler, I'll do a EGR delete at the same time.
Do I really need to go further and replace the head gaskets and put in the ARP studs?
I know a lot of people will say that you're that far into it replace the HGs and stud it.
Problem is it's an Excursion and I don't have a lift at my house to remove the body. I'm not going to do the heads unless the body is off.
Bone stock engine, Except gauges EGT, Boost, Trans temp
I've had a coolant filter since about 10k miles
Only have 53k miles now.
I probably will not ever add a tuner
I'll be changing the exhaust system to a 4"
Let me hear some opinions
#2
#3
u can change oil cooler an dont have to pull off alot of stuff. to do HG u have to remove alot more stuff.
it can b done without pulling body off, but its harder to do.
what r your temp spread when not towing an on flat road. 15/20 degree spread is gettin up there, but thinks temps should b checked when not towing.
it can b done without pulling body off, but its harder to do.
what r your temp spread when not towing an on flat road. 15/20 degree spread is gettin up there, but thinks temps should b checked when not towing.
#4
and it's not got the head gaskets blown.
put the new and improved cooler in, and an
egr cooler or delete.... put in good coolant,
and drive it. there are a bunch of small mods
that you should make, but you can read all
about those in the tech folder.
some folks have changed the studs out one
at a time, but i don't know if you can do that
on an excursion. it won't work if the gaskets
are leaking..... but there are an awful lot of
people who've done it on a motor that is not
blown gaskets yet.
#5
To do the oil cooler your only removing the intake, turbo and filter housings (along with a couple of other minor items). You'd have to pull the rocker boxes to get the headbolts out....along with everything else I mentioned above.
Just out of curiosity, how long are you watching those temps? I always thought the preferred method of checking the delta was unloading/no trailer on the highway at 65-70 for several miles. Towing puts more stress on the engine...including heat...so the engine is going to run warmer.
Just out of curiosity, how long are you watching those temps? I always thought the preferred method of checking the delta was unloading/no trailer on the highway at 65-70 for several miles. Towing puts more stress on the engine...including heat...so the engine is going to run warmer.
#6
To do the oil cooler your only removing the intake, turbo and filter housings (along with a couple of other minor items). You'd have to pull the rocker boxes to get the headbolts out....along with everything else I mentioned above.
Just out of curiosity, how long are you watching those temps? I always thought the preferred method of checking the delta was unloading/no trailer on the highway at 65-70 for several miles. Towing puts more stress on the engine...including heat...so the engine is going to run warmer.
Just out of curiosity, how long are you watching those temps? I always thought the preferred method of checking the delta was unloading/no trailer on the highway at 65-70 for several miles. Towing puts more stress on the engine...including heat...so the engine is going to run warmer.
I will flush the cooling system before I begin. The truck will run and idle/fast idle fine right now.
#7
I think your plan sounds good. I wouldn't do the head gaskets/studs unless you've been overheating or seeing white smoke out the tailpipe (and the EGR system is dry). I think you know your EOT/ECT readings might be off because of the turbo problem an towing? Not a bad time to do the delete and cooler while the turbo is off and the tool are out though.
Trending Topics
#8
Ok I have a question? I got a quote from Ford mechanic that does side work. Mechanic quoted, 2600 to do egr delete,oil cooler,arp studs,head gaskets, including parts,and fluids. Having heads done would be another 600- 1000 more. Truck is 05 my temp gauge always stays low head gaskets not leaking.I want to install Eco tune,and light tow tune.My question is do I really need to do all this? and is this price a good deal?
#10
Cooper984, you don't have a way to check to see if you need to do any work without a scan tool that reads the real-time OBDII data. You don't say why you think you need to do work, symptoms or problems. Be aware that the factory temp gauges do not show real temp data - they are dead in the middle over a range of temps between around 180 and 230, they start to read high around 240 and only read at the top at around 250, about the time the engine shuts down. If your gauge is reading low (sort of 1/4 scale) then you probably have a stuck thermostat, mine stuck recently and I noted the gauge reading was low at 165 degrees actual.
Why did you decide the FICM was bad? What tests did you do?
Brian
Why did you decide the FICM was bad? What tests did you do?
Brian
#11
PaulwestSKI, I would personally do the minimum possible given your situation. I would retest unloaded and not towing, and you will probably find your delta in the 11 degree range. This is where you could run another 50K miles and not see a big change, or it could start to degrade. Also check how long it takes for the cooling system to pull the EOT down after you get off the highway and run at 30 mph, or stop at a light, or crest a hill and coast down the other side. You should see ECT drop fairly quickly to 190 or so, and the EOT should follow in 2 - 3 minutes. That is a good indicator that the oil cooler is functioning. Also, actual values matter. If you are 190 - 205 in your towing situation that is pretty good, if you are 205 - 220 towing light in cool ambient, that is bad.
Brian
Brian
#12
Ok I tested ficm voltage,when running
has 23-26v ? I think its been a few weeks since I checked.now truck won't fire cold when it is 50 degrees outside! Block heater makes no difference.Before this it would start and run like ****,and smoke till it warmed up, I figured since there are a lot of problems with 6.0,I would have them fixed before it cost me a lot more money. I don't have a scan gauge II.I bought sct 3000,that I need to get a custom tune for my truck.I want to get tune after egr delete,and maybe 4" exhaust. I was worried about egt getting too high.I Use my truck for work( since I own a tree service) sometimes pulling trailer full of wood, In the near future I want to purchase a 25 ft gooseneck trailer and sell my bumper pull 16' trailer.
has 23-26v ? I think its been a few weeks since I checked.now truck won't fire cold when it is 50 degrees outside! Block heater makes no difference.Before this it would start and run like ****,and smoke till it warmed up, I figured since there are a lot of problems with 6.0,I would have them fixed before it cost me a lot more money. I don't have a scan gauge II.I bought sct 3000,that I need to get a custom tune for my truck.I want to get tune after egr delete,and maybe 4" exhaust. I was worried about egt getting too high.I Use my truck for work( since I own a tree service) sometimes pulling trailer full of wood, In the near future I want to purchase a 25 ft gooseneck trailer and sell my bumper pull 16' trailer.
#14
Cooper984, I believe the SCT can read the OBDII data and monitor your temps without a tune installed, so you could try to get that working. Your FICM probably did need to be fixed so a good start, as is the blue spring. You need to read the oil and coolant temps to know anything about the status of your oil cooler and the SCT should read those for you. Once you know your data you can start to decide what needs fixing. Just like a doctor and surgery, the best thing to do is nothing if nothing needs fixing.
Brian
Brian
#15
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
tesmith66
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
9
06-18-2012 01:24 PM