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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

Plugged Oil Cooler

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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 09:05 PM
  #1  
His/Hers 6.0s's Avatar
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From: Pacific Northwest
Plugged Oil Cooler

Recently purchased (1 month ago) a 2004 F350 Super Crew Long Bed with a 2003 6.0L (August 2004 build).
I just had a shop go through it and they found that the head gaskets were good, but found evidence of oil cooler being plugged (30 degrees between coolant and oil temperature).
To put in the ARP head studs, do an EGR delete and replace the oil cooler it would be around $4,000.
This motor has virtually ZERO warranty history, is a one owner and I can't find any evidence of towing. It has 106,000 miles. We like the rig and don't see dropping $40,000 + on a new truck anytime soon.
We tow a mid-size bumper pull travel trailer (31', 9,000 lbs) a few times a year but may go on a 2,000 mile trip this summer.
  1. Should I just replace the oil cooler and leave well enough alone on the head gasket/head studs?
  2. Should I buy the oil cooler kit from Ford and do the work myself?
  3. Should I use this as an opportunity to get rid of the EGR crap?
I've heard the best running 6.0s are the ones that are stock, but I can't be dropping $4,000 in this rig everytime I turn around. Will the EGR delete change the driveability? Should I dump the CAT converter while I'm at it?
Just looking to make this a no-nonsense family daily driver.
Thanks again.
Kev
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 09:11 PM
  #2  
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#3

dumping the cat will lower egt's but won't really help with reliability persay unless you're towing heavy.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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hott-rodd
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Buy a cooler off ebay for around $200 and a delete the EGR cooler.
If you do the work yourself you could do everything less than -$600 buying big name delte kits, less than $300 with a little searching here. Throw in a coolant filter for another 150.00 and you are golden.
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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Mountain Pass
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So would it be reasonable to leave well enough alone on the head studs and just drive it like it was meant to be driven, keeping an eye out for signs of leaking head gaskets?
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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I had a puking problem and then my egr cooler failed. Then the oil cooler. I did the ARPs and head gaskets at that time. When I got the heads off the gaskets were in great condition. I could have left the ARPs out at that time. If I were in your position, I would delete the egr, replace the oil cooler and the HPOP screen underneath it and install a coolant filter immediately to protect my new oil cooler. Always maintain the truck religiously and on time. If, the biggest two letter word around, the gaskets fail later, fix them later. JMHO
 
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Old Mar 6, 2010 | 10:21 PM
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From: Mattawa Washington.
Originally Posted by rickatic
I had a puking problem and then my egr cooler failed. Then the oil cooler. I did the ARPs and head gaskets at that time. When I got the heads off the gaskets were in great condition. I could have left the ARPs out at that time. If I were in your position, I would delete the egr, replace the oil cooler and the HPOP screen underneath it and install a coolant filter immediately to protect my new oil cooler. Always maintain the truck religiously and on time. If, the biggest two letter word around, the gaskets fail later, fix them later. JMHO
X-2 , I wouldn't worry about the gaskets unless the previous owner used a tuner. Tuners are the main reason for the head bolts stretching.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 10:05 AM
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I agree with all the above except the egr delete. Are they going to start smogging diesels in your area? If you replace both coolers and put a coolant filter on to protect them I would think that that is good. Once re-assembled I would do a vc-9 flush and then do your 50/50 coolant.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 11:03 AM
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I recently did an EGR delete, oil cooler rebuild and coolant filter. They do not check diesels here right now. I just kept my old cooler, UP, and valve in case they start. Cost me about $700 total, plus alot of cussing.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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Originally Posted by desertt5
I recently did an EGR delete, oil cooler rebuild and coolant filter. They do not check diesels here right now. I just kept my old cooler, UP, and valve in case they start. Cost me about $700 total, plus alot of cussing.
With the work involved, if I had to put the cooler back on to meet smog, I wouldn't be putting the old one back on unless you were dam sure of its condition.
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:12 PM
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From: Minnesota
I would do option # 4
new oil cooler, new egr cooler (oem), new HPOP screen, flush cooling system per Ford's instructions, new ford coolant, install new water filter from www.dieselsite.com
If you can do the work yourself you will save some dough!
jm2cw
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:26 PM
  #11  
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Spend the 4 grand!

Sounds like you you are going to keep the truck for a while. I would spend the $4,000 now and get rid of any future significant motor problems. The things that your shop recommended: studs, EGR delete and oil cooler rebuild are the major things that leads to eliminating puking.

Also, if you don't like how the truck performs while towing then you can get a SCT X3 tuner with custom tow tunes and you have the studs, EGR delete and new oil cooler already installed.

The $4,000 now gives you more future options to improve motor performance and would significantly increase the motor's reliability.

Getting rid of the cat will reduce EGTs some but not a whole lot. The big advantage of getting rid of the cat was it reduced my turbo lag by 50%. Installing a 4" MBRP exhaust lowered my EGTs more and eliminated the remaining turbo lag. Just some food for thought for the future.

DSMMH
 
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Old Mar 7, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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Sound good but i spent the money on studs, did new oil cooler, deleted egr cooler myself and I'm STILL PUKING. If your don't plan on running hot tunes, or towing stupid weights you can wait. You never know what will happen and $4000 goes a long way toward the next truck or fixing needed problems.
JMO
 
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