I’m getting ready to replace the outer tie rod ends on my ‘87 ranger (2 wheel drive).

Looks like it should be easy enough, but I thought I’d ask before I find myself tricked...again. But that’s a story for another time

I have a socket set and basics, but before I take it all apart, I have a few questions.

-Any special tools that I should rent or borrow?

-How about getting the alignment right? Ok, close will be fine... I’ll take it to a shop and have them dial it in if I have to. Right now it’s pulls pretty hard to the left. The driver side wheel looks like it leans in on the top, espescially when it’s turned to the left.

-Any hidden suprises I should expect? The truck has front end damage and the steering wheel is crooked when driving straight down the road. But the rest of the front end linkage looks pretty tight.

Could this really be as easy as it looks? It looks like a pro could do it in 15 minutes per side. I'm a carpenter so I'm hoping 3 hours for both.

 

Check the ball joints/control arm bushings before you visit the alignment shop; the leaning tire to me suggests maybe a worn ball joint and/or failed bushing(s). Also, check to see if the wheel bearings are adjusted correctly. For that matter, maybe run it through a shop for a free estimate of what needs to be replaced and then do it yourself from there.

You will probably need/want a pickle fork to dislodge the tie rod end from the knuckle. You can rent them, but thanks to "made in China" I bought one 10 years ago for $20. Do the repair with the rig on a flat concrete pad, and do one side at a time. Bounce the front end a few times before starting, and have the tires pointing straight ahead. Leave the tires on the rig and do not jack the rig.

Begin by removing the cotter pin and the castle nut on the tie rod end, then use the pickle fork to break the connection. The stud on the tie rod end should be tapered; carefully make sure that you can gently press it back into the knuckle on the spindal and that it seats properly. With this done, let the tie rod hang free from the knuckle. DO NOT disturb the steering wheel or the tire position. Proceed to loosen the nut on the sleeve which secures the tie rod end to it, and R & R the tie rod end. Screw the tie rod end into the sleeve and check to see if and finally when the tapered stud on the tie rod end engages properly with the knuckle WITHOUT the need for the tire position to be changed. Once you have achieved this, the rest is the reverse of the above. Don't forget to grease the new tie rod end.

Sometimes the tie rod ends don't come out of the sleeve easy. You may want to spray some liquid wrench on the threads before starting the job. Also, a pipe wrench works well too. You are correct about seeing the alignment shop when done as this is the only way to get the alignment done right.

 

He is right get the free estimate first, then do it yourself. As far as I know you just need a pickle fork or two.

 

I did them on my '98 4x4 last week cause one side had a flat spot. Bought a tie rod end serperator fork at Autozone for $8. I had to take off the caliper/rotor/shield to get an approach with the fork, but that was only 2 bolts on the caliper and 3 on the shield. Since I replaced them with stock Mazda parts (couldn't find tie rod ends anywhere else), I marked where they were before and tried to get back to that. Unfortunately, I think the inner tie rod move a little on me or I didn't get it exact because the truck pulls to the left a little now. I'll be getting an alignment to fix that as soon as I finish the ball joint job.

 

Thanks guys, I appreciate it. I was thinking (hoping) I could do it without having to break the ball joint. Oh well, at least I'll be ready.

I didn't have a shop look at it but I saw it myself. Everything looks snug except the tie rod ends, it's easy to see the slop in the ball joint.

Back when I first got it I had the wheels off and the rotors/bearings etc, are all good. One of the rims had a little dent at the bead but that's all.