I found a lot of people with the same problem as me, but threads die with no fix. So I'm not the only one with this going on. Water in fuel light and glow light coming on then " limp mode for 3 seconds". Now I just need the fix. Sent out some help links let's see if anyone comes to the help.

 

Hi,
Do you have a link back to where you tell what you have done so far?
What year and model/options are you working on?
Sean

 

I remember your thread, But I do not have a answer for you.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...my-sick-o.html

 

I have a few questions. Sorry it I repeat some already answered ones.
What year truck
Do you have power peddles
When the lights come on what happens? Go into detail.
After you replaced that stop (break peddle)switch it was ok for a few days right?
Have you checked the wiring around that switch and looked for any damage?
Also check around the E-break for any wires that show damage.

Sean

 

2004 f250 70,000 miles. Yes on power peddles. Truck stalls, but does not turn off. After 3 seconds all is well. No codes truck runs fine. After stop switch truck ran good for about a week. I looked for wire shaffing but can't see any. My wife does not drive the truck very much. Almost never. But I am on vacation right now and she is driving it a few times a day. I.e moving gas peddles back and forth. I am really thinking it might be this because it did it once before after she drove it and I put them back to were I drive. I will look in the morning. But any help is good. Thanks.

 

I got out my wiring diagrams for my 06. Don't have 04. If I were to have to bet on a damage wire I would.When you have a broken wire it there is voltage on one side it can/will try to find it's way back to the battery. It may go through some other circuit to get there and those lights may be the path it is taking. That could give the PCM a problem that it does not know how to deal with or make it think your foot is not on the accelerator.

One very funny thing about wire it can look OK and still be broken you have to feel the wire and one spot will feel funny or soft. I would get under the dash and look where the peddles pivot and find the wires. Pull twist and gets you fingers all over the wires.You finger nails are also good at finding breaks or small rub points.

If you have access to one of the video bore scopes like they have at the home stores for looking into pipes and the inside of walls it could come in handy for looking at the back side of things.

When you do find it and if it is just a rub point use some heat shrink tape to seal it up and add a bit of padding to keep if off sharp things.
I just thought of this pull on the wires that go to that new switch and see where they move at. That could be a clue.

Like I have always told my costumers burnt and broken is easy it's the hidden electrical problems that will cost you in time. We all know time = money.You start at one point and work out from there until you find it.
Good Luck
Please let us know what you find.
Sean

 

I like Seans Idea^^^^^^ start that bad boy up and wiggle wires around

Basicaly try to recreate the Problem

 

this problem isnt to common AFAIK And definatly Not a Fun one at that

Cheezit or Mike or any of the techs know better than I though

Do you have any way to check V-ref signal???

Cheezit mentioned in other thread you posted in to also check the grounds clean them

It just seems like something loses power cuz it sounds like these lights that are coming on are the same ones that come on when truck is turned on right at first

 

O.k here is an update. Just got home after a 400 mile trip. The truck did what always does. With in the first 2 miles. Filled it up and drove home. Truck ran strong all the way home never missed a beat. 80 to 85 all the way. No codes not hick ups. So I really don't think it is a wire problem. Don't you all think it would do it at any time ? Also ford just got back to me and said look at back pressure sensor or the wires to the ficm. There was another sensor but I can't remember right now what it was. Well I will check some more stuff and let you all know. Thanks for the help.

 

A damage wire could show up with a bump in the road or not.
I had a look at mine and the wires that come from the peddles
go up into a large bundle and around some steel supports.
Lots of places for rubs.
Yes I would also do what Ford said to do and check that.

We had a Cessna single engine that would eat alternators and regulators
turned out to be a wire that had rubbed through the insulation and would
short out every now and then and go POOF. I just happen to find it while
doing other service on that aircraft. I saw a missing grommet and happened to
put my finger on the wire and felt a very small aberration on the wire.
That turned out to be the problem. This took weeks to find and several other
mechanics had also worked on it.

The lesson is with wiring problems Be Persistent

Sean

 

you only have a few options. I know I have covered this same basic concern more then once.
you say you have no codes? is this really the case? what code reader are you using?

do you have a p0603, p1000 or a system pass?

if you have anything but system pass then you do in fact have a code. in this case having a p1000 that does not turn in ot a system pass is a little bit of insite as to what may be going on.

next I would start disconnecting v-ref sensors and see what happens.
form there I would try disconnectiong one injector at a time and see what happens
then I would put an engine harness in it being that its an 03/04 and is a knowen and common concern with those 2 year trucks.... really I would just put an engine harness on it first and see what happens but im not spending my money

 

pull the wires off your ebp sensor at the bottom of the turbo and check the wires inside the nice black plastic guard and see if the wires are melted together . On my truck the plastic guard looked good but wires were melted together inside and ofcourse the Ford tech changed both wireing harnesses then looked for the defects no codes stored at all but if you push on the harness the goes between the two filters the truck would stumble and sometimes stall .

 

Okay here's the update. as per ford I took of the exhaust back pressure sensor. Took the truck for a run and got excessive turbo farts. That tells me that the sensor was working. Then we took off injector pressure sensor and the truck would show codes. We took a look at the wires under the ficm. They all look fine. We looked on the driver side front wheel well and found a white wire that was frayed. We fix the wire. Now all I can do is wait and see. It would be really cool if that fixes it.

 

Well that didn't fix it. F#@%ing truck.