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Where to Anti/Never Sieze Spark Plugs

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  #1  
Old 05-07-2012, 08:21 PM
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Where to Anti/Never Sieze Spark Plugs

My 06 has 123k on it now and is beginning to miss a bit; time for me to bite the bullet and install some new plugs as a first step. I am under the impression that the previous owner did not change them, so this is the first time for the 5.4 engine. I have a NAPA broken spark plug tool standing by and am running Seafoam thru this tank of gas (which is Shell brand that supposedly has top tier gasoline to help clean carbon deposits).

I have read a lot of posts here and maybe I have missed it, but I know to coat the lower barrel of the new Motorcraft plugs, being careful not to gum up the tip, but no one has mentioned the actual threads of the new plugs. It seems to me to be important to apply Neversieze there also. Any thoughts out there?

Also my NAPA tool does not have instructions with it, does anyone have the instruction page(s) and the capability to scan me a copy? I am almost sure I understand how to use it properly, but this here is not a dress rehearsal, its the real thing.
 
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Old 05-07-2012, 08:47 PM
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The TSB says to apply Nickel (make sure you get the right anti seeze - Nickel has a higher temp rating) anti-seeze on the barrel of the plug only; not on the threads. Make sure you do not get anti-seeze on the electrode as it can cause a misfire.
 
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:34 PM
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X's 2..... no anti seize on the plug threads or electrode tip.
 
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:46 PM
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Much thanks; that is exactly what I needed to know.
 
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Old 05-08-2012, 07:51 PM
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Don't waste too much time concerning yourself with the anti-seize. I changed my for a second time with only 60k on them and I used the high temp nickle anti sieze. I ran a can of Seafoam through the last tank and followed the TSB. The only thing I did different this time was a warm engine instead of a cold engine.

I broke 6 of the 8 without even trying Lucky for me the Lisle tool worked flawlessly on all six. I had only 1 plug on each side that came out without the use of the extraction tool. The High temp nickle anti-sieze did absolutly nothing IMHO

See the plugs below in the order that they came out

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<TABLE id=ncode_imageresizer_warning_3 class=ncode_imageresizer_warning width=400 itxtNodeId="850" itxtHarvested="0"><TBODY itxtNodeId="877" itxtHarvested="0"><TR itxtNodeId="878" itxtHarvested="0"><TD class=td1 width=20 itxtNodeId="880" itxtHarvested="0"></TD><TD class=td2 unselectable="on" itxtNodeId="879" itxtHarvested="0">Click this bar to view the full image.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE id=ncode_imageresizer_warning_3 class=ncode_imageresizer_warning width=400><TBODY><TR><TD class=td1 width=20></TD><TD class=td2 unselectable="on">Click this bar to view the full image.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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  #6  
Old 05-08-2012, 08:14 PM
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Thanks for now and it will take some time to run this tank of fuel with Seafoam thru the engine as I don't drive every day, maybe only average only 70 miles a week. I have gained a lot of information from your forum and when I acquire the courage and empty the tank I will report back here with my results. I can only hope its good news, however, my buddy does own a tow truck and a garage and he can use the business, so it won't be a total loss.
 
  #7  
Old 05-09-2012, 02:11 PM
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Best bet is pre de carbon, heat motor to running temps, using a very good spark plug socket, extension, and impact wrench remove the plugs quickly while the motor is hot. An electric impact will work if you not aired. It's money well invested to remove plugs. Do not impact run the plugs once they are loose and out as you will scuff up the 1st thread on the head and have to chase the head threads. Burr-zipp and your done with each one. There is a video on u-tube of Ford Master Tech doing this operation. The rest of the ways to remove the plugs are a waste. It is the only way to effectively remove them with any hope. All the other ways is break/ break /break /break/ break /break/and finally/ break/ break.
 
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Old 06-12-2012, 08:53 AM
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Well, Papa Tiger, you may be correct. Did mine last week and broke five of the eight. If I still have the truck come time to change again I will give the warm engine and impact a try. Can't do much worse.

I will say this: My truck runs much, much, much better now. It won't do much good to check the imroved gas milage (that I'm sure I now have) because of accelerating fast and in general driving like a teenager again. It's about out of my system now (200 miles later) and the next tank I will be able to report on my better milage. It's sure nice to have a full V-8 engine available again.

The Lisle tool is just as reported: Worth its weight in gold. Had I not bought the special SD swivle socket/extension from Advance Auto I may still be trying to finish up. Also at my disposal was no less than a dozen extensions of various sizes and a 4 piece set of the "wobble" ones along with a impact ball swivel and a couple of regular universals. I am not telling a lie when I say that I used every one of those at some point or another.

I elected to go with Motorcraft exact replacment plugs after reading and re-reading all the post here. The gentleman that I purchased my Lisle tool from (he sold it for 40 bucks after he broke the first two off and then got scared and took it to a Ford dealership) gave me his remaining six plugs that are Autolite HT-15. They are brand new and available to the first of you to convince me that you have donated at least $25 to a local food bank of your choice. Pretty cheep for $90 worth of plugs, also I will ship it for free.

Although I had fun and enjoyed the challange, I do understand why the Ford dealerships and other mechanics charge the amount they do for this seemingly little job. Thanks to all of you who donate your time and knowledge to this forum; keep the faith.
 
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