Decided to join the crew on ford trucks, maybe you all can lend a bit of help with my 05 f350 with the 6.0 diesel.
I bought the truck last fall and it ran like a raped ape, i was in love. I didnt have the truck for a week when it began to just stall out. Never stalls while ive got my foot on the gas but as soon as I stop at a light or anywhere it will stall. It stalls in every gear forward or reverse and even neutral and park. I have to keep on the throttle slightly to keep it running when im stopped.
I brought the truck to the dealer to have them check it out, they told me there were so many things wrong with it and the condition of the body that I should probably just buy a new truck. Yeah the body is tore up but I bought the truck to work. They gave me an estimate of over 9 grand to work on it and said they couldnt guarantee it would fix the problem.
I took the list and did it myself. My intake was totally coked with carbon, took some serious work to get that cleaned out. I replaced three bad injectors according to the dealer, I also ran a test on the ficm and carefully inspected the injector wire harness. While i was replacing the three injectors i went ahead and pulled the other 5, cleaned the injector cups and replaced the orings and copper washers. There were two copper washers showing evidence of blowby, these injectors were the ones I replaced plus one more.
I installed an updated stc fitting on the hpop as well as new updated stand pipes and dummy plugs in the high pressure oil rail. I installed an egr delete kit as well as a brand new oil cooler.
Needless to say after all of the time i spent meticulously working on this rig, and not to mention over 2000 in parts, the darn truck still stalls. It definitely runs smoother than it ever has.
One thing I do notice is the truck cranks a long time before starting for the first time in a day. Anyone else have this problem? Can anyone offer me some guidance? The long cranks in the morning kinda lead me to think there is a leak in the high pressure oil system. Could my pump be bad? Any help would be appreciated.
Long cranks on a cold engine are more related to the condition of your batteries than an STC fitting leak. If the truck starts OK when warmed up, the high pressure oil system probably does not have a problem.
I was seeing longer cold cranks. A battery replacement fixed the problem.
LouBraun has you starting at a good place. You should load test the batteries and also test your alternator.
I know you said you tested your FICM, but MANY MANY Ficm's seem to test good and still have issues. Ed at FICMRepair.com installs updated parts and repairs them to a condition better than new ($225-$350).
I know you have done a TON of work and some of it (injectors) are not cheap, but I would highly recommend going the extra mile and getting the FICM work done to eliminate that weak point.
After that, the only real vulnerabilities you would have (IMO at least) would be fuel pressure and the injectors that were not replaced (possible stiction or spool valve issues).
The blue spring (updated part) from Ford is highly recommended and so is a fuel pressure gauge.
What coolant did you go with after all your cooler work? A coolant filter isn't a bad idea either.
Good luck and keep us informed of your progress.
Edit - hopefully you are using OEM filters (oil, fuel, and external tranny). Is your oil filter cap a Ford cap? Lots of people that buy used 6.0's end up w/ aftermarket caps that are too tall for some filters and the oil can bypass the filter and/or partially drain to the crankcase reducing the oil flow.
Being an 05 your High Pressure Oil Pump is a GOOD one and dont fail to often
OEM Oil Filter & OEM Oil Filter Cap very important here the wrong Combo Cap/Filter can cause longer than normal crank time to Start and Run
Heres a ccouple things to check first thing
1. Scan for DTC/CEL most autoparts store does this FREE
2. verify Oil filter cap/filter
3. change fuel filters
4. verify condition of HPO System
Honestly could be a number of diffrent things IMO a SGII would pay for itself at this point vs throwing more parts at it. SGII is 160.00 well worth it. Its a Great Gauge but not the Best code reader it does read some codes but the light usually has to be ON you can have codes without a CEL Too
. But has so many gauges it still well worth it does Lots
Benny oem hpop 1/8/14,update ipr screen
2003 6.0, 4X4 srw, short box, born on 3/28/03 Moog ball joints,DC POWER 190A ALT Duralast Goldtop batterys 10/7/2012,RECON LED SMOKE MIRROR LENS,4 inch turbo back magnaflo exhaust,no kitty, 6 in. lift, BFG 315/75r16, python remote start alarm,pioneer system2 12''subs 1600watt amps ,scangaugeII,coolant filter, blue fuel pres spring, Fresh oil cooler 6/1/11 Final Charge Cat EC-1 rated Silicate Free ELC coolant, Sinister Full egr deleate, ROTELLA T-6 5w-40syn,updatedHPO screen,updated oil filter stand pipe, TC SX8000
I put two brand new batteries in it at the time of all the other repairs. I did use oem filters and I double checked caps they are original ford parts. I did get the updated blue fuel pressure regulator spring update on there as well. As for coolant I used the fleetrite elc. I have no afternarket guages at this point.
The previous owner had a bully dog programmer on the truck, not too sure but I have a feeling it had something to do with how the truck runs now. I've got two snap on scanners and three other generic scan tools and I cannot pick up any codes with them. I believe the ford vcm is the only real way to see everything going on in the trucks brain as ford hasn't released some of the info to be produced by aftermarket companies. I am a technician for a construction company with a fleet of mostly ford trucks so I have been pushing them to invest in the vcm.
I have been thinking about just replacing the ficm butits so expensive and id hate to come up with the same problem after I spend all that $$$$.
Yes I pulled the conduit and tape off the injector harness and found no signs of damage, just to be certain I tested all the wires for continuity while moving the harness around to check for intermittent faults caused by vibration.
One thing I didn't mention earlier was the truck does not start with the key, previous owner installed a push button. Not sure if this could have something to do with it. Also when the truck stalls I have to turn key off then back on or else it just it just belches and dies. Most of the time I actually have to put the pedal down to get it to start.
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