Currently have an 04 6.0 that keeps having injector problemes. I have been having a local shop tend to this, but have no problem changing injectors myself. I have had all 8 injectors replaced about 2 yrs ago and a few off and on since then. Is there a reason, or something I am doing that is causing this. Here is a list of the recent things I have done but pretty much everything is new from the block up: New heads, gaskets, ARP studs, new FICM, EGR delete and oil cooler, coolant filter, new turbo unison ring, blue spring kit, SCT tuner, and new oil logs on each side. Fuel pressure gauge reads about 60-62 psi all the time. Oil is changed every 5k and fuel filters every 10k.

After the last visit to the shop (approx. 2 weeks ago for a #2 injector replacement and new unison ring). I removed all tunes from truck (was running Elite Diesel Insanity all the time) I figured this was causing my injector issues. Truck ran great untill last night and had instant loss of power. Upon restart I could hear a fuel knock and A BUNCH of white smoke out the exhaust. Same problem as about all other injector problems just no warning at all this time. Never throws an engine light and SCT has never been able to read any DTC's. Thinking about getting a ScanGaugeII this weekend and see if I can pull any codes with that. Sorry for the long post, just trying to be as descriptive as possible as this is getting quite rediculous.

 

The shop that did the original 8 injectors might've insufficiently torqued them down, causing eventual o-ring failures. Most mechanics are blissfully unaware that their 150-ft-lb torque wrench is uselessly inaccurate in the 24-26 ft-lb range. You need a dedicated low-torque torque wrench to do injectors, period.

Could also have the fuel tank silver lining failure, causing intermittent partial clogging of the strainer, as well as gradual clogging of the primary fuel filter. That would manifest as low fuel pressure only when under heavy load, which you won't see when checking your fuel pressure gauge in the driveway.

Your banjo bolts might be partially clogged. That won't show up on a fuel pressure reading. Everyone should remove their banjo bolts, drill out the stupid check-valve, very carefully clean all associated parts and areas, and then reinstall.

Perhaps the shop sold you cruddily rebuilt injectors and billed you for new ones or for premium rebuilts. I recently had this exact crime committed against me, and I got less than a quarter-mile down the road before one of the injectors failed, blowing diesel fuel directly in to the cylinder, tons of white smoke, died on the side of the road, then hydrolocked with diesel fuel.

One final thing to check, unlikely but possible. Inspect the seals at the top of the failed injector, where the oil rail connects. If the seals seem battered, then your oil rail nipples may need new o-rings, because they are blasting the seals with leaking high-pressure oil spray. There is a special tool for unscrewing the nippes for this job.

 

Thanks so much for the reply. Just got off the phone after having a heart to heart with the repair shop. Everything you said makes sense and I will check into those things this weekend. I just believe after 13 (soon to be 14) injectors in 2 years (some under warranty and some not) something is fishy here. Will definately post my findings when finished as hopefully it may be beneficial to someone else in the future.

 

Dave here in MN with a 2004. Have you updated your oil standpipes with the new set u can get from the international dealer, don't know the number. They go for about $150.00, I got a complete set for $108.00 from a Ford Dealer. I would definitely make sure you have completed this update. I also know that issues have come up with a leaking connecter from the High Pressure Oil Pump. Someone help me here is it called the STC connector?? Bottom line, both of these items can rob your injectors of oil pressure and cause the problems you are experiencing. good luck

 

Thanks for the reply Dave. I have not replaced the oil standpipes. Will also do some research on the other suggestion you made.

Also, to the experts. Will a scangauge usually pick up DTC's that are present without bringing on the service engine light? I do know the shop uses a Ford scan gauge, just wondering if the cheaper ones will do the same as the Ford one as I have never had the engine light come on for an injector problem.

 

The scan gauge II is not a good code reader ( not from personal experience but from reading on here ). Were the injectors you had installed OEM remanufactured or some other brand? The OEM remans are the best you can get as all the tolerances are checked upon rebuild and all moving parts are replaced with new. You say your fuel pressure is 60 + all the time, is this to say you have a way to monitor your fuel pressure while running down the road? If so you cant do much better than that. If the injectors were not torqued down properly that can allow gases of combustion to enter the fuel system as stated above and with not only eat the orings but will also aerate the fuel which will damage injectors.

 

Injectors are supposed to be all OEM remans. The fuel pressure is observed with an autometer analog gauge with the tap coming off the fuel filter housing in the engine compartment. At idle press. Usually is at about 65psi. At normal driving is is about 62-60 psi. Even at WOT with the 150 hp tune the fuel press doesnt drop below 52-55 psi. Dont think its a fuel pressure problem but nothing suprises me with this thing anymore

 

Minimum spec on fuel pressure is 45 @ WOT so I think you are good there.

 

The only other things I can think that will take out an injector is water in the fuel or perhaps one of the check valves where the fuel enters the head may be causing a restriction. Have the injectors you've had to replace after the initial set you had installed been on the same side? Have you done the bubble test to see if all of the copper washers are sealing properly? To perform the bubble test remove the secondary fuel filter and crank the engine as shown in this video and watch for bubbles, if you have bubbles you have a copper washer that isn't sealing,

 

I know you said you replaced the FICM, but have you been monitoring the FICM voltage? Where did the FICM come from, and have you had any battery issues since the FICM was replaced?

 

I have not done the bubble test yet, however i just replaced the o rings on all injectors on the pass side, then had it in the shop for #2 replacement as it was found that it was the bad injector and was under warranty. I can only assume (and that has got me in trouble before) that everything was torqued to spec as this could be a problem as previously mentioned. I will do the bubble test Friday as I will be busy with little leauge baseball untill then. Just trying to get some ideas before then. Thanks for the replies mustang. Much appreciated!!!

 

As regards to the FICM. Very well could be the issue as I have had a bad batt cable between the 2 batteries that this site helped me troubleshoot. I intend on also checking the voltages on this to see if that could be the problem. FICM was new from Ford when installed. That is a very good possibility and something I should have probably checked before now with the batt and alternator history since its replacement.

 

Yeah, check the voltages and be sure to check them in all modes, including stone cold before cranking, during cranking, and during the entire engine warmup period. Low voltage can come and go during different injector inductive heating stages.

 

2005 was the first year for the Snap To Connect fitting, his 2004 is a different pump. You may want to read through the Tech Folder, especially the Top O-Ring thread.

 

Hello 04,
I f you have not replaced the old standpipes I am sticking to that as your problem, and unfortunately you will never know until you pull em. The old one has a single o-ring the new one has an o-ring and a Teflon sealing ring. Both short and long pipes have been modified if I remember correctly. I changed mine with the cab off don't know how tough it would be to do it with the cab on. Wish you the best on finding the problem.