2005 F250 SD 6.0 Diesel
#1
2005 F250 SD 6.0 Diesel
My 250 is giving me crap again. I seem to go through this ever 8 to 12 months. It's warm here now in Texas and I don't expect to have this issue until winter.
When I start the truck for the first time, (sitting over night) the truck will turn over, hit for a split second, and then it dies. The only way I can get it to start is if I hold the gas pedal down. Then once it starts, it runs like crap until it warms up about 10 to 15 minutes before it start to run good.
At times it will blow out white smoke for a couple minutes as well.
The kicker here is if I plug it in overnight, it will start right up and run like a top. The last time I had it into ford, they said my batteries were bad and they flashed the injector module, the truck ran good for a few months and now we are back to square one.
The one thing I had thought of was the starter. If the starter is not spinning the engine fast enough would that cause this issue? I don’t think the starter has ever been changed, which may have been the reason after changing the batteries that it helped for a while. The other thing I thought of was oil, I currently use Fords 15W40. I read a post where they were using the 10W30 Diesel oil. I would only think that would make a difference in colder weather.
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When I start the truck for the first time, (sitting over night) the truck will turn over, hit for a split second, and then it dies. The only way I can get it to start is if I hold the gas pedal down. Then once it starts, it runs like crap until it warms up about 10 to 15 minutes before it start to run good.
At times it will blow out white smoke for a couple minutes as well.
The kicker here is if I plug it in overnight, it will start right up and run like a top. The last time I had it into ford, they said my batteries were bad and they flashed the injector module, the truck ran good for a few months and now we are back to square one.
The one thing I had thought of was the starter. If the starter is not spinning the engine fast enough would that cause this issue? I don’t think the starter has ever been changed, which may have been the reason after changing the batteries that it helped for a while. The other thing I thought of was oil, I currently use Fords 15W40. I read a post where they were using the 10W30 Diesel oil. I would only think that would make a difference in colder weather.
Thanks <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
#4
Yes it is; the FICM basically turns 12V to 48V and fires the injectors, sagging voltage (from blown components sometimes caused by an aggressive inductive heating strategy) burns out the board, and the truck runs like crap.
FICM test procedure:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
You can also buy an OBDII monitor like a ScanGauge (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AAMY86/...hvptwo=&hvqmt=), Edge Insight CS or CTS, DashDaq, AutoEngenuity to read the FICM Voltage without having to crawl under the hood.
Less than 45V at any point from cranking to running, call ed at FICMrepair.com and see if he can fix your unit, and maybe change the flash out on it to one of the better inductive heating strategies (or none at all).
Just an FYI, holding the pedal down doesn't do anything, the PCM will ignore the input and follow it's programming. This is probably a FICM issue because it runs rough until it warms up and plugging it in seems to help, but if it's been on-going for awhile you could have killed an injector along the way. Does the white smoke smell like diesel? And are you growing any oil in the crankcase? Because fuel dilution can cause serious engine problems, so make sure your oil level is correct.
The starter probably isn't a problem, because the way the glowplugs pull current the truck runs on batteries for up to 120 seconds every start cycle. During that time the batteries are getting hammered, and the FICM might be sagging trying to pull enough amps out of them to fire the injectors. They aren't deep cycle batteries, so drawn out high current draw will kill them faster than normal car batteries, and the FICM will suffer for it.
Also, 5W40 diesel-rated oil is preferred, it'll help cut down on the rough starts because the oil side of the injectors will flow better when you start it. Most guys won't run 10W30, since the 6.0L injectors shear the oil you'll have to go to a more frequent oil change interval to keep the viscosity from falling too far down.
I'd recommend that you check the FICM voltage, switch to 5W40, and change your fuel filters if they haven't been changed in the last 10k. Buy the ScanGauge and start reading the 6.0L tech folder and you'll get it squared away.
FICM test procedure:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...procedure.html
You can also buy an OBDII monitor like a ScanGauge (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AAMY86/...hvptwo=&hvqmt=), Edge Insight CS or CTS, DashDaq, AutoEngenuity to read the FICM Voltage without having to crawl under the hood.
Less than 45V at any point from cranking to running, call ed at FICMrepair.com and see if he can fix your unit, and maybe change the flash out on it to one of the better inductive heating strategies (or none at all).
Just an FYI, holding the pedal down doesn't do anything, the PCM will ignore the input and follow it's programming. This is probably a FICM issue because it runs rough until it warms up and plugging it in seems to help, but if it's been on-going for awhile you could have killed an injector along the way. Does the white smoke smell like diesel? And are you growing any oil in the crankcase? Because fuel dilution can cause serious engine problems, so make sure your oil level is correct.
The starter probably isn't a problem, because the way the glowplugs pull current the truck runs on batteries for up to 120 seconds every start cycle. During that time the batteries are getting hammered, and the FICM might be sagging trying to pull enough amps out of them to fire the injectors. They aren't deep cycle batteries, so drawn out high current draw will kill them faster than normal car batteries, and the FICM will suffer for it.
Also, 5W40 diesel-rated oil is preferred, it'll help cut down on the rough starts because the oil side of the injectors will flow better when you start it. Most guys won't run 10W30, since the 6.0L injectors shear the oil you'll have to go to a more frequent oil change interval to keep the viscosity from falling too far down.
I'd recommend that you check the FICM voltage, switch to 5W40, and change your fuel filters if they haven't been changed in the last 10k. Buy the ScanGauge and start reading the 6.0L tech folder and you'll get it squared away.
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Here is what you will need, and you will find out that it is very useful. I got mine from Riffraff as well, best price I could find and got it in 2 days with free shipping. Looks like they are still offering the free shipping as well.
Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle
Riffraff Diesel: AutoEnginuity Total Ford Enhanced Bundle
#14
Hi,
DGMFORD
It might be a good time to check the batteries . Bad batteries in the cold
only do worse. Also check the cables for any corrosion.
On a cold day in March I got dumped in a parking lot on the overnight test drive.
Sales man said sorry. I said "No problem BUT you will replace the bad cables"
They did..
So while you have some time and if you have a ride that you can use take the batteries
in to a shop and have them tested.
Good luck
Sean
DGMFORD
It might be a good time to check the batteries . Bad batteries in the cold
only do worse. Also check the cables for any corrosion.
On a cold day in March I got dumped in a parking lot on the overnight test drive.
Sales man said sorry. I said "No problem BUT you will replace the bad cables"
They did..
So while you have some time and if you have a ride that you can use take the batteries
in to a shop and have them tested.
Good luck
Sean
#15