I'm at the end of my rope with this problem. I put on a new fuel pump on my truck when I got it, one of the ones for a 390 as they work just as well and are much cheaper. Everything worked fine till that accident, now I can't get the thing to stop leaking.

It's leaking from the exit spout, and leaking to a point it's almost a steady stream. I used the original steel bolt that was on my truck and it seemed to have worked fine. I've tried a different nut or two including buying a new brass one for it, but I think the thread may have been stripped a little with it all. I'm usually pretty good about that, but it happens, especially when leaks don't stop, lol.

Besides trying new bolts, I've also used JB weld. It did slow it but it didn't stop it. I "pulled out all the stops" with it a couple weeks back and dried it out and packed the threads with it, made sure the hole was clear and covered the whole bolt as much as I could, and it still leaks like I drilled a hole in the side of it.


Only idea I have left is taking it off, cleaning up really well and welding the bloody bolt on good and proper, but I'd like to avoid that route if possible, if nothing else it's not leaking between the fuel pump and the engine block and it seems to be the last spot on the truck that isn't! lol


Any ideas? This is a stupid problem to be having.

Thanks

 

If it is leaking gasoline from the pump discharge side where the line runs to the carburetor, my guess the housing is cracked. Possibly from over tightening or a shock from the wreck. Not leaking from the vent hole is it? I thought it was the early 352 pump that worked with the Y blocks. There may be a difference in the 390 actuating cam? Possibly too much carry and cracked the housing? Don't know. Pull the pump and look closely at it under a magnifying glass with the fittings screwed into the pump.

 

I took it out and took a look, the steel bolt from the original line stripped it out pretty bad, to the point the threads don't even exist anymore, ha. I took a look at it, couldn't weld on it so I decided to drill out the hole just a tiny bit (the one leading to where the threads where) and pressure fitted a piece of fuel line, then just for safe measure packed the threaded area with JB weld. If it doesn't hold I'll have to buy a new one (which sucks because I don't plan on using this powertrain that much longer) and take the old one to the shooting range, lol.


It should hopefully work, I'm waiting on new gaskets at the moment as I need one for my water pump too, stupid thing ripped on me when I put it back in the box after looking at it (forgot it was in there and then put the rest of the kit in later).

I still have the main rear seal to do, hopefully I can get to that this week. Won't know on the rest of it till next week or so, hopefully it works, very tired of always "fixing" the same problems, lol.

 

I've used both of these products on the jet well plugs for carburetors I rebuild. Great products. Probably won't heal damaged threads, but they will stand up to gas!

If there is enough meat around the fitting, you could thread a steel bolt into the housing, then carefully drill and tap the bolt for your fitting, if you can get the fitting size. I once did this to repair a jet well on a ****** carburetor. I used the aluminum handle from an Exacto knife, threading both the inside and outside.

Eclectic Prod. 380012 1 oz Adhesive

found in hardware stores

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...et_Sealant.htm

found in auto parts stores where Permatex is sold

Another thought, almost embarrassed to mention it, but since it is only temporary, here goes. Take some gas resistant sealant, pack inside housing, and fitting, then screw the fitting into the housing while feeding some soft wire (like thin copper) in with the fitting. The wire will take up the slack and give the fitting something to bite.

I used this wire trick (sans the sealant) on a stripped out carb base hole. The fellow needed the carb, and I had to do this until I got the right size helicoil kit. Then I fixed it properly.