So yesterday I drove to town with the wife (first time I've driven anything since Feb 20th - longest time without driving since I got my license almost 50 years ago). I'm driving down the Pyramid Highway and notice the "Door Ajar" light has turned on. I look up at the dome light and it is on....alright, so pull over and check the doors. As I hobble around the back of the truck, I notice the bed light is on. All the doors are obviously closed tightly, but I open and re-close each one. Still, the "Door Ajar" light is on and the dome light too (along with the bed light). We go to lunch...come out and find the same condition on the truck. Drive 30 miles home and when I pull into the yard, turn the truck off, the Door Ajar warning light and the interior lights are off. Where do I start the hunt for what I presume, is some kind of sticking switch. Please don't tell me that it is buried under some sheetmetal and it is a 5 hour removal to get to the switch .

EDIT: I noticed that while the Door Ajar light is on and the key in the ACCESSORY position, the chime boings incessantly.

 

Spray some WD-40 on the latches. I've had to do that a couple times. Takes care of the problem!

 

Thanks...I just did a search (why didn't I do that BEFORE posting ) and found the solution you shared and the switch that usually goes bad. Here is a link.... Thanks Smitty!

 

lol...same scenerio 2wks ago. Pulled into Del taco, and saw the "DOOR AJAR" on. Looked up, noticed light was on, so i removed the bulb, after opening/slamming the doors.. haha, not relizing, the cargo lamp was on... Got where had to go, googled it, and found the WD-40 trick. Alls well so far.

 

Neal,
As your aware of now the switch is at the bottom of the door latch inside the door. Not to bad to get out though, I just helped a neighbor change his latches a couple of weeks ago. I digress, the problem with using WD-40 or any type of liquid lube on latches (door, hood, tailgate) exposed to the elements is that it will collect dust and dirt. This will eventually stick or wear out the latch or switch in this case. I learned a long time ago from an old timer mechanic that you are better off cleaning the item of all grease and oil, brake clean works good on door and tailgate latches, and then spraying it graphite spray. The graphite is carried by a solvent that flows and penetrates into the latch/switch and then evaporates leaving a dry graphite film that will lubricate and will not collect crap to wear out or stick the item.

For you Neal I know AC Delco in reno/sparks carries it because I buy it at their Truckee store.

I have done all my latches and it is amazing how nice they all work just getting that old nasty grease from the factory out of there.

Good luck.

 

The thing that gets me is to replace the switch on the door latch you have to replace the WHOLE latch. Correct me if I am wrong. I hope I am wrong !! Some are built in the latch and some are bolted on. Which style is it on our trucks ?
Has anyone ever found a place that just sells the switch on the latch ? I don't remember but can you just leave the switch unplugged to bypass the "door ajar" light ?

 

the switch is just a "twist lock" into the door latch. no reason to replace the whole latch. used to buy them from Ford all the time. Unplugging them will sometimes fix it sometimes make it worse. Some of the switches are "normally open" others "normally closed". never could figure out a pattern. Only way I could get the right ones was to match the color of the plastic on the connector.

Barney

 

Thanks Barney. I wasn't sure on our trucks with style of switch it was. I haven't had this problem YET on my truck. But I had 92 Tbird that I had to buy he whole latch or the stealership just took me to the cleaners.

 

I agree, I am not a fan of wd-40 on switches unless it is an emergency. So tell me oh wizards of smart, there must be four of these switches on my crewcab, correct? I guess if I am going to open the door panels up to get to the switches, I might as well just put new ones in. Anybody have a link to buy the switches?

 

If you go back to that link I put in the third post they say you can just unplug the switch if you wanted to.

 

Thanks Neal... I'll go and read it now after the fact.

 

Bump...Anyone have the part number for the replaceable door switch? Here is what they look like (photo credit to dcara)...



Well, I found an aftermarket switch at $18 each...sure would like to find OEM.

EDIT>>>LOOK>>>Finally found OEM part number, Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): XF1T14018AA, XF1Z14018BA

MOTORCRAFT Part # SW5534

 

Neal,
The neighbor I helped said his inside cab lights, door ajar light and key left in the ignition buzzer had not worked for years. I found the switch gummed up with old grease and the plunger frozen in the switch. I took it out, cleaned and lubed it, put it all back together and everything started working again. I don't know about you but I would prefer to fix something if it can be fixed rather than spend money to replace an item, certain exceptions excluded.

Besides, somebody who has not driven anywhere in over a month should have some time on their hands.

 

Dave, I would normally agree....BUT....when the time/effort is high to get at the parts and the new parts are relatively inexpensive, I prefer to replace with new parts. I would have to get at each part, remove, clean, lube, replace all four of the switches (because I know of no diagnosis which allows me to find the switch which is bad)...also, it may not fix the switch (the bad switch may be in fact defective at 14 years old). Plus I move around like a turtle with this soft cast on the leg. This argues in my mind for remove and replace (less time on my feet and I'll have fixed the problem).