I have used this one with no issues now:
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...waterpump.aspx

If you are switching to a different type of coolant I do believe chemical flushing is highly recommended.

 

I copied the dfuser kit and bought the parts separately...

dfuser - Ford Superduty Powerstroke 2003-2007 6.0L Coolant Filter Kit
build - https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...r-install.html

 

You could read about this subject for hours on FTE alone! Theres difference of opinion on several issues, so this is just mine. IF you are just replacing your coolant- going back with the same brand and type, and have no issues with high temps with EOT or ECT, it would be fine to drain, flush with water (distilled is best) and service it back up. IF you have temp issues, I would do a chemical flush with VC-9 even if going back with the same coolant. If the chemical is used, I would flush the crap out of it with a garden hose and go to distilled water for the last flush. IF you are changing types from a HOAT (see post below) like Ford Gold to a silicate free Cat-1 rated ELC, I would use the chemical as described above to remove residue form the cooling system and allow the new additives to work properly. You are going from the silicate based "green" coolant to a silicate FREE coolant. Even with chemicals I don't think you can get all the old stuff out but I would want to remove as much as possible.


The green-dyed EG "conventional" coolant we all know and love has an
additive package based around a silicate (and sometimes also phosphate)
based anti-corrosion additive. *It's well-established and does a good job.
It can go 5 years/50K miles without worry.

A few years ago, someone thought a long-life coolant (original plan: life
of vehicle) would be a Good Thing. *This lead to Organic Acid Technology
coolant (OAT), which is marketed as "DexCool" by GM and has been
factory-fill in their products (except C4 Corvette -- not sure about C5
Corvette) since 1995. *It's the orange or orangy-red stuff. *Someone along
the line decided the word "acid" was a Bad Thing to try to sell, so OAT was
recursively changed to Organic Additive Technology. *It can go 5 years/100K
or 150K miles -- provided it's not mixed with other coolant. *OAT has less
cavitation resistance than silicate-based coolant, and can attack certain
sealing materials, so it's not a good idea to convert a green-coolant car
over to OAT unless the manufacturer says it's okay. *OAT also has a
tendency to stain translucent plastics in things like overflow bottles and
pressurized de-gas bottles with a funky brown crud. *Oh, and OAT from one
manufacturer isn't necessarily compatible with OAT from a different
manufacturer. *Texaco is GM's OEM supplier and is licensed to use GM's
"DexCool" trademark on their aftermarket packaging. *I'm not aware of any
other company being licensed to do so.

Many European automakers use a hybrid of OAT -- HOAT (Hybrid Organic
Additive Technology -- clever, huh?), which is the OAT package with a small
amount of silicates added to increase the cavitation resistance and make it
less aggressive against those seals and gaskets. *This is often pale yellow
in color. *DaimlerChrysler is using it in several car lines now, too,
notably the LH sedans and the new minivans (It's possible the
Sebring/Stratus twins now use it -- I don't have that handy at the
present). *This stuff seems to offer pretty much the best of both worlds --
it's not quite as long-lived as straight OAT, but it is much better behaved
in operation than OAT, much like conventional coolant.

Note that these three different additive packages are not really
cross-compatible. *No, they won't eat the insides of your radiator if you
mix a little of one in with another in a pinch, but you'll be better to get
the system flushed out and a fresh mix of 50/50 whatever your car needs put
back into it.

Here's a link to the full article:
Cooling Fluids

 

Wow! Now I am even more confused.... If silicate free coolant such as the Cat ELC stuff I just picked up is hard on seals etc... Why are people switching over to it?

 

Sorry, was trying to be brief (believe it or not ). The new ELC's aren't related to the Dexcool and other OAT stuff. They are non-organics, seal friendly, and most important of all can take the heat in the EGR cooler without breaking down into goo as the silicates are accused of doing.

 

Oh good, I thought I just spent $185 on crap coolant! lol

Good, then I am happy with my original choice of coolant again (thanks to the help of everyone on this forum)!

I ordered the Performance Machine filtration kit as well (price was better and it had a few things with the kit that seemed a bit better IMO). By the sounds of what I have read, just the fact I am adding a filtration kit to the coolant system is bonus enough never-mind what brand goes under the hood. I did call their office though to question about the nipple off the head unit for the filter and he assured me it has been fixed and dealt with (as far as the leaking issues and inability to instal the filter easily).

Now for some more reading....... as to "what to do" and "what not to do" in terms of flushing the system.

 

As I said berick - I only water flushed when I went to ELC. I have had no issues.

I would use chemicals ONLY if you have poor cooling or signs of a plugged oil cooler.

 

I agree Bismic. My system has had 2 kinds of coolant through it to date and neither time there was a flush done but I am not experiencing any temp issues on the oil side nor on the coolant end. I am going to flush with distilled drinking water from the grocery store 5 or 6 times and leave the Restore+ and the Ford equivalent out of the flush. I don't want to risk the chemicals busting off a bunch of crap into the coolers.

 

Can you post some pics of the PMM unit before you install? We'd like to see how the unit was fixed.

I was leaning their way until someone posted pics of the infamous nipple - went Sinister instead.

 

You bet! Could you do me a favor and PM me the pics you have of the old style? I also want to make sure I didn't get a lemon before I put it on. He assured me the issue had now been fixed so..... fingers crossed!

 

When assembling the PMM coolant filter fittings, use the liquid teflon vs the tape type teflon. The liquid seals much better.

I'd like to take credit for thinking of this tip; but it was taught to me by a professional mechanic.

 

I remember reading about this somewhere, where all the hose fittings on a coolant filter install leaked after using the tape. Since my default nature is "lazy", I decided to use the tape anyway, just add more! I took out the one plug in the Sinister setup and re wrapped it with around 5 or 6 wraps of tape and repeated this for the other two connections.

Currently, I am leakless. But I do like the idea of using compound instead of tape. I just didn't feel like making the 2 mile drive to CarQuest.

 

Post #15 has a link with pics.

 

Found them.... Wow. Hope they cleaned up their machine work. I'll post a few pics once it comes in.... if I can figure out how to post pics! Lol

 

I installed a MARPAC 7-0873 kit including 2 filters for 36.95 plus hardware and 3/8 fuel line. After you are done with the two filters, you can install any 11/16 thread coolant filter without additives: Wix, Donaldson, etc.

There is 4 port on the fliter head so you can install a gauge on one of the port.

The ball valve are OK, but If I raise the filter higher than the reservoir when replacing the filter, no leaks no need for valve.

http://www.mavikmarine.com/pdf/Fuel-...on_521-554.pdf